1 Lucky Texan

^^^ oh, yeah, even when an old thread is bumped, it can still have good info added that might help someone else in a future search. no big deal, I've done it (bumped an old thread - not looking at the date)

what symptoms do you have with the present trans?

5spd or auto? check LKQ and car-part.com , and maybe craigslist for someone parting-out a junker.

there is some good indications they are Akebono Ceramics (good stuff), but there's the possibility supplier and specs have been different thru the the years and across models. most name-brand ceramic or semi-metallic would serve well for replacement if you find the dealer too expensive.. People of course have favorites, I like Centric Posi-Quiet Ceramic on our OBW.

uh - thread is from 2008

if you haven't, change the o-rings at the suction and discharge hoses on the compressor - they almost turn to plastic with heat and age. had to do that on my wife's 03 OBW.

any other electrical issues? any work done to the car before this began? have you checked the alternator voltage?

there's a lot of force on those - sure that's where the sound comes from? maybe you could wrap them with some thin foam or bubble wrap or ????, check the clearance, then close the hatch and drive - see if there's any difference?

has the timing belt system been serviced in the life of the car? could have slipped a tooth. knock sensors will affect performance. it's worth scanning the system for pending codes - post any numbers found here - like P0303 or w;ever (Pxyz)

glad you found it! I haven't wrenched deep enough to deal with the modern sealants, but I have read enough to know it is possible to use too much.

94 have a crank pos. sensor? some older soobs had intermittent CPSes.

checking fluid level while idling right? 2 different trans did this? did you swap old front diff onto the replacement trans?

seems more like a possible TPS problem.

yeah, I think the extended period of high vacuum just puts more than a normal amount of oil vapor in the PCV system so, the above are good suggestions. could be some slightly stuck oil control rings on the pistons, weak PCV valve, etc. or just worn parts letting extra oil past. maybe experiment switching to a high mileage oil or heavier viscosity?

year, model? maybe post a pic or better description of the location of the item. most people would just use the drain at the bottom corner of the radiator.

is the belt 9 years old? maybe it's glazed and slipping. any 'jerkiness' in the steering wheel when the PS is failing? that could be air as said above. Look in the reservoir while idling.

the CEL should be tested before start - when the key is at ON and the other lights are tested. does it illuminate then? could be a prev owner disabled that light or it has burned-out.

I've read you must be very careful tightening the VC bolts back down, easily twisted off. definitely get the double platinum NGK plugs - don't even think about another brand. if the clips holding the coil connectors break, some folks have just used small zipties to retain them. consider a new PCV valve too.

I think he replaced the rotors. one possible point of confusion, you adjust the star wheel UP to tighten the adjustment on both sides. seems weird but, there's even an arrow embossed onn the brake shield back there.

hmmm...starter was changed (probably cables inspected but...?) so, yeah, some security 'feature' is suspect. maybe the switch on the brake pedal?

what would happen if the HGs were swapped side-to-side? or installed 'reversed'? any return passages blocked or are they perfectly symmetrical?

any sign of oil loss or oil in the breather tubes or intake tubing? I once read of an STI owner that had misrouted PCV and breather hoses when reinstalling his engine = ended up with an oil pressure light on from pulling a vacuum on the crankcase!

wow - almost seems like the oil can't drain but - dunno about how loosely they seem to fit. interested to read more comments.

20 year-old car is expected to need a 'sucky' repair every few months. while warm and idling, try tugging/pulling on some wire harnesses and hoses under the hood - maybe a vacuum hose is cracked (even a vacuum gauge might be useful with this problem) or a ground or other wire/connector is intermittent. Does it feel like the car is 'pulling' when this happens? maybe a Torque Converter issue?

torque bind stresses the entire drivetrain, who knows if a u-joint or something else has been compromised?