1 Lucky Texan

I have Subaru SPT 'pinks' on my 06 WRX - and those are notably harsher than the stockers. old struts might have less rebound damping, but their downstroke would also be looser, not harder than new. Also, don't some folks need to cut about a third of the bump-stop off? maybe that wasn't done....not sure about that though. just depends on exactly what you are experiencing but, (other than correcting track/height issues mentioned above) i doubt new struts SOLELY will improve the problem and likely will make it slightly worse.

also, check the rear bushing for the front lower control arm(s). It's rubber with fluid filling but, they lose the fluid and can then begin to degrade. Febest has decent, affordable replacement at Amazon - maybe other places too.

wow! they added the damn rubber restriction after that bottle was made I guess! (or changed the formula but kept the 24110 part number???) crazy.

you could try re-registering the fobs using instructions in the manual or over at www.cars101.com (not sure but, car might be in an odd mode like Valet ?) I have bought used fobs and registered them - it worked. before i replaced them, I found that squeezing them with one hand while pushing the button seemed to help. But, that was with 03 Outback style so.....

do you have the weather package? just wondering about mirror or seat or windshield, heater malfunction.

from the Permatex site - under the 24110 number's instructions, it says in bold "DO NOT APPLY TO BRAKING SURFACE OF CALIPER PADS OR RUBBER SURFACES." http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/specialized-maintenance-repair/brake-maintenance-repair/permatex-ultra-disc-brake-caliper-lube-detail So, the 'green' label stuff is known to be bad for rubber. DO NOT APPLY TO BRAKING SURFACE OF CALIPER PADS OR RUBBER SURFACES. - See more at: http://www.permatex.com/products-2/product-categories/specialized-maintenance-repair/brake-maintenance-repair/permatex-ultra-disc-brake-caliper-lube-detail#sthash.nL4uuM2p.d DIRECTIONS: 1. Clean all caliper parts to be lubricated with Permatex® Brake & Parts Cleaner. 2. Apply Caliper Lube to pins, slides, bushings and pistons. 3. Lubricant may also be used as a noise suppressor to eliminate caliper brake squeal. DO NOT APPLY TO BRAKING SURFACE OF CALIPER PADS OR RUBBER SURFACES.

yeah, there was a joke going around in the late 80s when stuff started being very - smooth=ish. "That car looks like someone stepped on a sausage!"

My permatex, the one shown above, is a purple grease. label not only says safe for rubber, but instructions say to use on seals as well as sliding parts. ???

fair - I wish I understood where the problem is. Even in the reviews at Amazon, you find an entry or 2 blaming the permatex for affecting rubber. maybe there was a few years where the compound Subaru used was the issue? I dunno. the bottle I have now is this I think; And, in the few times I've used it so far, doesn't seem to have caused any problems. with an 06 Impala, an 03 Outback or an 06 WRX. I use it everywhere I think there could be sliding or contact.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0091KCG0W/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=IDEFQ97CY9SH&coliid=I11ZL9W8SL2MQD&psc=1 afer reading that the permatex can cause our soob brakes rubber parts to swell/degrade (not tested or experienced by me personally) I think I'm gonna switch to the above Silarmic. most recently read here;http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/81-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension/291250-brake-grease-lesson.html

Honda element problem; http://takakiauto.com/blogs/kunio/emission-fail-spider COOL - please let us know what you find OK?

either way, be prepared with a vacuum hose attachment to clean around in there.

it's a little ATF fluid. cover the belt and surround area with a rag or 2, lift the adapter/hose up so it doesn't spill much, replace o-ring(s) , reassemble, top-off fluid wit Valvoline MaxLife dex/merc or similar. clean the area. our cars will clear the air out very quickly, 2-3 trips to full lock, L to R. Just montor after that. if you still have bubbles - could be a cracked hose or fluid tank. PS pumps do fail, but ti isn't common. your mechanic could probably do this for you for - what? - $25 to $40 dollars.

maybe some Berryman's B-12 or BK44 w'ever in the tank would un-stick any stuck components? def. look for signs of insect activity in the ends of the evap hoses in the back. read this! ;http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2554768 good luck

does the car have a cabin air filter? might be clogged. or a blend door isn't shifting all the way?

if original, everything on the car is 18 years old, so, I see nothing wrong with 'trying' one or 2 not expensive items. like a new crank position sensor.

def. check the radiator level - safely, when the engine is cool. actually look in the rad - don't trust the overflow bottle. not sure from how you are describing the sound - could this be a slipping accessory belt? or, does it really sound like a fluid? maybe open the hood and have someone else start the car and listen. If it's louder inside the car, could be something with the coolant, a/c or fuel tank. If it's louder under the hood, maybe a slipping belt or.....? also, next morning before starting, remove the gas cap. note any pressure in there, start the car.

alt. seems OK then. usually, batt cables look OK? good connection to ground on the black cable, etc.?

dallas - is your car a 6 cyl (3.0) ? that alt is different than the one for the 4 cyl - could be a mix-up with the new part.

looks like someone stacked 2 cars. maybe it looks better IRL. car photos are often poor representations of actual appearance.

I have read about these issues extensively. (and, my MIL's 2011 Forester had to have the tank replaced for this!) there are at least 2-3 ways this can happen generally, with 4-5-6 causes. one thing to ask your customers - and they need to be honest to help with diagnosis - do they 'top-off' when they fill the tank. The charcoal canister can become flooded to the point it weighs pounds more than normal and blocks proper venting. the evap 'drain' hose could be clogged - it actually can allow air/fumes to travel in 2 directions depending on system requirements. But, if insects or mud has clogged the hose's outlet, it may lead to a problem like slow filling. If a bad attempt at siphoning fuel was ever made,if the filler neck is rusted in certain ways, that can cause issues. if certain evap solenoids/valves are bad, that can cause issues. if a car sits unused for a long time, the tank's vent valves can stick. some people just live with the problem, some have discovered that rotating the pump's hand 45*s to the side when filling helps. it's crazy.

I get confused about models sometimes but, look for a largish rubber hose loose from the intake - it comes from the IACV on the throttle body.off

you might consider something like a Perrin lightweight pulley. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perrin-Performance-Red-Crank-Pulley-Subaru-WRX-STI-2002-2013-/301186148305?fits=Year%3A2001|Model%3AImpreza&hash=item462017e7d1&vxp=mtr

yeah, 22mm or maybe larger , probably deep socket for that threaded tube in there - you might try just tightening it first but, I think replacement is not too difficult.

very common, almost always air in the system. almost always a bad o-ring on the suction hose adapter on top of the PS pump - cheap/easy fix. do a search - you may find pictures, even a video at youtube. I had to fix both my soobs for that.