1 Lucky Texan

I have read about these issues extensively. (and, my MIL's 2011 Forester had to have the tank replaced for this!) there are at least 2-3 ways this can happen generally, with 4-5-6 causes. one thing to ask your customers - and they need to be honest to help with diagnosis - do they 'top-off' when they fill the tank. The charcoal canister can become flooded to the point it weighs pounds more than normal and blocks proper venting. the evap 'drain' hose could be clogged - it actually can allow air/fumes to travel in 2 directions depending on system requirements. But, if insects or mud has clogged the hose's outlet, it may lead to a problem like slow filling. If a bad attempt at siphoning fuel was ever made,if the filler neck is rusted in certain ways, that can cause issues. if certain evap solenoids/valves are bad, that can cause issues. if a car sits unused for a long time, the tank's vent valves can stick. some people just live with the problem, some have discovered that rotating the pump's hand 45*s to the side when filling helps. it's crazy.

I get confused about models sometimes but, look for a largish rubber hose loose from the intake - it comes from the IACV on the throttle body.off

you might consider something like a Perrin lightweight pulley. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Perrin-Performance-Red-Crank-Pulley-Subaru-WRX-STI-2002-2013-/301186148305?fits=Year%3A2001|Model%3AImpreza&hash=item462017e7d1&vxp=mtr

yeah, 22mm or maybe larger , probably deep socket for that threaded tube in there - you might try just tightening it first but, I think replacement is not too difficult.

very common, almost always air in the system. almost always a bad o-ring on the suction hose adapter on top of the PS pump - cheap/easy fix. do a search - you may find pictures, even a video at youtube. I had to fix both my soobs for that.

OK, the video shows him holding the hub and bearing out of the knuckle and shifting it back and forth. so, I have no experience with that type assembly. maybe someone else does. The HBA I installed in an Impala would only rotate - not shift like the video nor wobble. sry

you might do a search at www.nasioc.com for 3rd part ECUs/controllers.

compare to the other side. but yeah, sounds bad as described.

you are seeing the DRLs. THey should get brighter when the headlights are turned on, and they should go off when you set the parking brake.

you could carry a gallon or 2 with you when the tank gets low. Drive till light comes on or the car stalls. still, I'd hate the thought of stalling in traffic.

could a bad cat be clogging the exhaust as it warms-up? weird I know - maybe check with a vacuum gauge. There are 2-3 things a vacuum gauge could help find. was crank/cam timing checked? maybe the crank sprocket has shifted on the crankshaft?

he replaced the alt. but, we all know rebuilt alts have a very poor reputation. his new alt needs testing, as does the battery - and the ground strap and other cables/connection need checking. probably good idea to take a look at the crank pulley in case it is slipping.

name brand ceramic pads are all probably on-par with the stock Akebono ceramics. I run Centric PosiQuiet Ceramics on the wife's Outback - no drama or noise and they LAST.

is the vibration felt throughout the car or just in the steering wheel? any change if you coast in N ? is the noise a whine, growl, hum or a rattle or a buzz....what?

sounds like the voltage may be marginal to operate the DRL module. how old is the battery? was it tested too? ( a Midtronics unit or an old load box is better than just a voltmeter) get that ground cable fixed, it may look 'connected', but it may be dropping voltage at high demand levels.

people have done all kinds of swaps - probably 'easier' (this is a relative term, it won't be 'easy') to swap in engine and probably driveline gear from a wrecked WRX. over at NASIOC I'd bet you could find threads on a similar swap. you can do almost anything with enough $$$$$ - cardoc SUPERcharged a 6 cyl. Outback! you just need to pick the path that best fits your budget, mechanical ability, tolerance for being without your car and dealing with a lot of details - and your goal.

if you really beat-up the brakes, make sure to run stickier tires, consider StopTech Street Performance pads. They are an affordable upgraded pad with high MOT but they bite when cold and modulate well. They will dust more though. (yeah, you could run Hawk, Carbotech or Ferodo, etc. - but they are even more money)

had a low beam bulb go out on the WRX, installed a pair of GE Nighthawk bulbs. fairly easy, right side - just 2 bolts to remove the intake funnel. Left side, one clip to shift the wiper fluid filler tube - it was tight, if I had sausage fingers, probably have to remove the battery.

city of Dallas had property tax on cars (boats too?) until sometime in the 90s. I think some Counties in Texas have it - one in the panhandle - it's on newer cars only but supposedly can be $400 ! interesting; http://taxfoundation.org/article/states-moving-away-taxes-tangible-personal-property

yeah, I remember when I first heard about local property taxes that included vehicles and boats. i was shocked too.

wonder if someone used the wrong trans fluid in the past? how many miles on this car? might be able to get a used trans with half the miles from a wreck to throw in it. Or, get some name brand non-synthetic GL-5 in the trans and just drive it.

I think in years across 3 Forums I have only read of 'chocolate mousse' oil/coolant emuslion showing up once. And white coolant out the tailpipe is also uncommon for our cars. It can all happen, just that the most comm on is either external seeping/weeping/dripping happens, or full-blown combustion gasses in the coolant pushing it into the overflow tank (particularly 1st run of DOHC 2.5 liter engines in the late 90s to 2000 or so). stay in the habit of checking level in the radiator, confirm OEM style thermostat (a MUST) maybe get a new rad. cap. On both my cars, I clamped the overflow tube to it's nipple on the rad neck. I used 2 small zipties. confirm rad fan operation - they can fail or, confusingly, get intermittent - sometimes coming on when tapped.

coil/wires causing misfiring?

^^ what he said - lack of lube or too much rust or some other issue with the caliper sliding.

how's the fluid level and condition? (level must be checked while idling) some folks have good luck after some fresh fluid - even 3 drain/fills with some driving in between. or, after fresh fluid, Trans-X has helped with 'delayed engagement' .