1 Lucky Texan

oh, that's cool. confirm the tires are all the same size. If you see mixed tires on a Soob awd, that's a bad sign. Take alook under the hood of any autotrans car and make certain the FWD fuse slot is empty - then, take it for tight circles on dry pavement - should be able to idle, or just above idle make circles with no jerking/binding. On 5 spds, do that test after the trans is warmed-up. torque bind in the sticks is often worse/present only after a highway run - at first. easy for folks to confuse fluids - especially on the autos - front diff should be GL-5, trans fluid needs to be clean of course. a/c problems are often just leaky o-rings at suction and discharge on the comp. sometimes the schrader valves at the ports. Noisy power steering is often a bad o-ring on the adapter on top of the pump - bubbles in the fluid tank. easy fix. Odd overheating 'could' be headgaskets - that usually piushes fluid into the overflow with combustion gas. But, aftermarket thermostats cause problems too.

if you can get one from a wreck (needs to be same transmission as your car) it likely would be OK - then, rebuild yours when you have time. so, I guess you're pursuing this because it DOES click, but isn't always starting the car? - if so, yeah, from what I always read, that's most likely the plunger/contacts - some people have had to go deeper and clean carbon from the commutator (where the brushes ride)

you may be right if that's one of the Mitsubishi planetary starters - I guess I'm just not sure what you have there. (my 03 has denso, my 06 WRX has Mitsu.) I have seen youtube videos on the plunger/contact rebuild. here's a guide (you can find others) with some pics; http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTricks/Starter.shtml

check ebay

maybe get a helper to turn the key while you feel and listen for clicking in the starter - bad contacts are a well-known issue. that is why i also suggested whacking the starter next time it fails.

check the wiring and hoses again. a coupla those codes are IACV-related I think. almost seems like a bad/missing ground under the hood too. Clear the codes and see if all 3 come back immediately. I searched google " subaru P0443 " (and the other numbers - looks like you could read-up a little on those codes and how other folks dealt with them. could be 2 problems I guess.

consider a pre-purchase inspection - might get something to bargain with, or, bad enough news to dodge a bullet!

after I got mine, they seemed a little - dunno, 'crunchy' inside - I dribbled a drop of oil into them and they are fine once you get used to them. hope it helps a little

when it fails - does it click when you turn to start?

if you are really gonna have gear in the vehicle (and people?) you might consider holding out for an H6 . (though, no 5spds in those - some people prefer auto for 'soft' roading don't they?) aside from that, those 2.5s after about 01-02 or so got mostly external HG problems, so, i might avoid that 2000. BUT, if you can positively confirm that one of those older 2.5s was PROPERLY rebuilt with MLS gaskets by good shop - that would be fine. consider also, you might find a craiglist car with an overheated engine, then have a shop rebuild a junkyard engine to put in it - more hassle and probably not a bargain - but a nice reliable rig.

very frustrating - fingers crossed found code points to a good possibility. some older soobs have had crank position sensors flake out when warm. But they would still crank. i read one STI owner that found some 'black stuff' on his crank sensor, cleaned it off, and the car started and ran better. one guy found the small wire at the starter loose - just needed tightening. lots of things to check. Do you hear a click when trying to start?

...and doesn't set a CEL code. or, have you scanned for a pending code?

do you hear a click? If you don't hear a click - then likely it's the safety start feature or an ignition switch or similar. if you DO hear a click, could be the contacts in the solenoid on the starter. That's why whacking the starter sometimes works - the plunger shifts to a non-corroded bit of the contacts and you get enough current to spin the starter. No need to get a new starter - rebuild kits are common for the inside of the solenoid. but an 05 is a little early - ...?, I guess it could depend on if it was regular driven lots of short trips ...maybe just weak parts... who knows?

do a search at their site? I've seen other styles - might try thumbwheel and thumb wheel as 2 words.

pretty sure I got my set from Amazon - they are like the ones pictured. I don't think they are 'necessary' but for a lot of those threads on the sparkplug just after loosening, or just before tightening - they give you the extra leverage to spin by finger - the ratcheting is very 'fine' in that there are a lot of clicks in a revolution if that makes sense. I used the 3/8 drive the most I think.so, maybe just buy that one ?

for part of the 'process' on my H6, I found these thumbwheel ratchets useful;

flooding or a sensor failing at temp - not sure either of those fit with prior symptoms, especially if it isn't cranking at all. Possible crank or cam position sensor - often though, those would set a code......? OH - one thing!, try whacking the starter - light/medium taps with a hammer or a decent whack with a chunk of 2x4. But, if you don't hear any clicking when trying to start - can't be the solenoid contacts. push-pull various battery cables and wire harnesses and re-try ? just throwing out wild ideas here.

loose or corroded ground wire? jiggle keys slap steering column slam doors? I dunno, the brake pedal thing is looking like a coincidence now but, it may mean there is an intermittent connection in the dash/console/ignition switch area....? do you have 12V+ at the battery?

is the CEL on? what is the maintenance history of the car?

FT will know but there's a switch, or part of a switch that is supposed to signal a foot on the brake during starting I think.

try starting in N, also try 'popping' the brake pedal. (depress a little and quickly release)

+1 on the Turtle Wax kit.

I think some systems need you to use the fob to lock, then unlock the car???

do a vacuum test when its running well, then compare to vacuum when failing - maybe exhaust is getting clogged by a bad cat conv ?? (uncommon, but possible) some older soobs had crank position sensors that would crap out with heat. if the CEL is on, post the codes here.

as a VERY general rule, avoid late 90s to 2000 or so 2.5l DOHC engines. (severe HG failures if not rebuilt with MLS gaskets) I'd suggest used turbo engines are also very risky, the worst being around the 2007-8 years, depending on model. (oil screen problems) used cars of all type have issues. Also, even the above problems can be mitigated if caught soon or 'properly' rebuilt. plenty of other little gotchas here and there....what are you considering?