1 Lucky Texan

when it overheats, is fluid being pushed into the coolant overflow tank? If so, headgasket leak is suspect. I think a radiator can be flow tested at a rad shop. Or, maybe scan it for cool spots with an infrared thermometer.

scan for codes - misfire would put unburnt fuel thru the system.

hawthorne - start a new thread asking for a mechanic near your city. maybe someone will suggest a good shop for you.

stant does make a t'stat that seems to be built to OEM specs. just avoid the tiny style; sure all the rad fans were working? some people report that can get intermittent with age.

file a 'taper' on the flats of a 'sacrificial' 11mm hex and hammer it in? also, since the fluid will be change anyway - maybe hit the plug(s) with 15-20 seconds of 'blue wrench' (propane torch) ?

try the 'clear flood' maneuver? hold the gas pedal to the floor while cranking.

cool!

try turning the a/c system OFF . and see if ou still have the problem. report back. (also, when you took it to the shop, did you take someone for a drive and demo the problem? is there any way you could do that?)

just a last-ditch idea, maybe drop the ex manis and look for a 'dropped' valve guide?

not sure on a 99, but my 03 unlocks DS on the first push, then, if the second push is within a second, it unlocks everything else. look for your security system/FOB info at cars101.com .

any codes set? sometimes it's helpful to post the actual DTC numbers here.

I haven't been following this but, does it crank? is there a CEL? codes?

this guy's 2013 had to have the EPB actuator replaced;

change the air filter? check the tabs on the far end of the box. you can run the car briefly with the belts off. many people find air in the power steering after they've 'disturbed' the hose. look for bubbles/foam in the tank while idling.

thanx!

check the crank pulley for wobble. If the inegritiy of the rubber in the 2 piece crank pulley degrades enough, it can even sping, throw belts and other wise act up. Some folks say to use a permanent marker or grease pencil to draw a line across the pulley, then check that it's lined-up after a drive. The car can also be briefly run with the accessory belts off. If no squeak, then it could be an accessory's pulley????

04 is cable.

just get a Mustang

Did a coupla small things to my WRX; used the Turtle Wax kit to clear the headlight lenses, - worked well, I'm happy with the results. I also had to use a Dorman product to tether my gas cap since the plastic stock tether broke. It wasn't a perfect solution, but cheaper that a new OEM unit. the wire is quite tight and didn't spin well. I used some pliers to 'recurve' the tips of the wire outwards a little to prevent dragging.

also, the 3K limit seems like 'limp' mode, but, no codes? could this car have had the ECU re-flashed? it's possible codes have been removed form the reportable list. I had to kill about 14 codes in my WRX relATED to my frozen-shut aircut valves. Intake runners (tumble generator valves) can stick and put the car into limp mode for instance - likely other stuff does as well. but, weird that there are no codes. just for S & G, try doing a code erase/ECU reset next time this happens. See if the car behaves better/differently.

some older soobs would have crank sensors flake-out at temp.... if it was fuel, why not cyl 4 misfire too? no oil on the plug boots?

^^^^ good post can you swap the wires to cyls 1 & 2 ? what brand wires are they?

could you do a vacuum test before and after it fails? maybe exhaust is getting blocked? also, try some carb cleaner or Ether Start in the intake when it's failing - if it tries to run, that would 'prove' fuel starvation I think?

I would absolutely insist on seeing the entire procedure AND be present when it is unsealed later-on.

does yours get 12V ?