1 Lucky Texan

She says twice just recently (today) the key was very hot when she removed it from the ignition. It was 105+ today but, a/c has been working and she didn't complain of any other symptoms. anyone experience this? (search won't let me use 3 letter words - ugh)

AH, so soopsoop was right!

another push within a second or so should unlock everything else.

one of the more experienced guys here may know if Subarus in the early 90s were known to have poor brake equipment. But, brakes systems have many little areas that can cause performance issues - that is, there are a lot of maintenance steps and inspection opportunities that can be overlooked. we weren't there and I won't say you didn't have a bad experience, but , as said above, there can be sticking calipers, cheap pads, overheated pads, air in the fluid, boiled fluid, leaking master cylinder seals, rusted/leaking hard lines, ballooning rubber lines, cracked brackets, broken bolts, etc. If you don't mind more brake dust, try the Stoptech S P pads I mentioned. I run them on my WRX. make sure ALL other areas of fluid and equipment maintenance is good. Read about 'bedding in' procedures. Some people who do a lot of easy braking around town, then require maximum performance on rare occasions (like heading to the track once or twice a year) will benefit from a bed in routine right before the event.

tires stop your car - brakes stop the wheel from turning. if the tires were sliding (no traction), reverse wouldn't help (no traction). the answer to better braking ALWAYS begins with - run stickier tires. after that (and assuming good brake system maintenance) you can experiment with upgraded pads (StopTech Street Performance are affordable and will bite when cold), and maybe things like master cyl braces and new/SS brake lines.

05 might have HBAs. I changed one out on my daughter's Impala - fairly easy. Timken unit and it's still working for her. similar to;

on some cars, you have to use the fob to set/disable the security system whenever you lose the batt. connection.

is a used engine an option? you, personally , might be better served with a newer car but - if it can be repaired 'fairly inexpensively' - I think that car could be good for someone who keeps it close to 'home base' and only used it for school or work travel. but, it does seem tired...maybe time to send it to the breakers.

no oil on the boot/plug in that cyl?

shop around but, I think they range from $100 to $150. More than a used OEM but less than new OEM I think? There are other brands that may be a little cheaper.

^^^ nice offer right there! or, you could get a perrin or other lightweight pulley;

compression may be a little low - how does that cyl's pressure compare to the others?

just get a Perrin lightweight pulley.

I have read that folks do seem to have to refresh the additive - but usually only every year or 2? could soon be time to seek other options.

occasionally you CAN find info on components of stuff. Either someone has analyzed it or there's 'just' enough info on the MSDS to figure it out. a quick search finds that wikipedial thinks it is about 74% 'mineral oil', 25% Stoddard Solvent and 1% lard. the MSDS somewhat confirms the 2 major ingredients; http://www.turtlewax.com/res/msds/MM010-4.pdf more reading;http://bbs.zuwharrie.com/content?topic=39758.0 (doubtful that anything at the 1% level is particularly active in the substance but......?) Stoddard Solvent is (or 'was' company claims they use something 'similar' now) about 1/2 ingredients in WD-40 by the way. (it's sorta like a deodorized kerosene)

I just lower the front windows and pinch it together real hard before a road trip. can't train the wife to close the door by the metal and not the window - sigh.........

what plugs come ina 10 from the factory? Coppers would likely be getting worn but, if double platinum you can go to 60K easy.

there are vents in the top of the tank itself - do you have problems filling this car? premature shut-off or having to dribble gas in slowly? (dang - I kinda sound like a urologist!) also, there is a Purge valve that is sopposed to clear-out vapors in the chacoal canister . basically, the fill and evap and pressure equalization gear may be buggered-up somehow. And it seems more like you have a bad valve or a blockage somewhere. There have been a few cases of insects/spiders blocking evap hoses. (mazda has had multiple problems with Yellow Sac Spiders, seriously) and I suppose it's possible mud/snow could block the Drain hose. I am no expert, but there is likely one or 2 with 2 valves, or possibly a single hose and one valve (that allows 2-way air movement - on some cars called a Drain hose even though it's 2-way)) into and out of the charcoal canister. If that hose is clogged or the valve bad, the tank cannot allow pressure out, or air in thru the charcoal.If you have a habit of 'topping-off' when fueling, that can clog the charc. can. with gas - possibly acting like a blockage. I hope you can get some info specific to the 96's evap and tank fill system. you might dig around at www.opposedforces.com for a diagram.

they move some of the evap control stuff around from model to model - sometimes it's on or near the charcoal canister - sometimes under the hood... hopefully an experienced person will be able to guide you better.

it's an 06, if the CEL is on, cruise is disabled. All recent models will turn off cruise and traction control ,etc. when the CEL is illuminated. CC may work after you clear the CEL code.

if you have a smart-phone or a laptop, there are ways to use elm327 BT devices or cables to read the OBDII info.

yeah, well, I found it but - might not work in an Impreza ?; from; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/19053-06-09-how-read-diagnostic-trouble-codes-dtcs.html

I think you can make the 06 display codes 'natively'. wait....

eh - I'd be tempted to clear the code and see if it comes back immediately. I'd also consider running some Techron in a tank or 2 of fuel. do you ever have any other problems? fuel smells or a 'woosh' when you take the gas cap off? gas cap seal not cracked? Filler tube not rusted thru? No known rodent chewed wires?