1 Lucky Texan

^^^ thanx emily makes me even more glad I run synth in my 06 WRX. hey, what kinds of oils do folks there at your shop run? and what weights do you suggest for your customers?

middle-aged to older and/or neglected Soob turbo engines do develop problems with turbo oil seal leakage. partly due to a propensity for clogging an oil screen which became part of a TSB campaign. other new-ish FB engine models had piston rings with a 'new' coating and maybe reduced tension/altered design. people are fighting oil consumption issues but, there may have been a good change to that system around late 2013 ? others may have details. (FWIW - by brother in law just had his Toyota Camry Hybrid catastrophically fail DURING an oil consumption test) Just try to be vigilant about your oil level - may investigate the various TSBs. IF you become involved in a consumption test - INSIST on being present when the oil level is checked ,and the system sealed, at the beginning - and again when the system is unsealed and the level examined.

leak down test might find the bad cylinder - then, "MAYBE" using their suggestion to pull the bad cyl's plug to use the substance, has a THEORETICAL chance to push the goop in the right direction. I'd say there's less than a 10% chance of immediate success - but not zero. And if it does work - probably less than 10% chance of lasting 6 months. there are so many Subarus with bad HGs, that youtube and the various forums would have multiple postings of success with using Blue Devil. at Amazon, there are five 1 star reviews and two 5 star reviews that mention Subaru. Both of the 5 star reviews seem to have had coolant going out the exhaust. Just like the Ford story - I could see BD (and maybe other products) being effective to some degree with that type of leakage. But with bubbles in the rad or overflow - physics is fighting you. Physics will win.

was some work done? what? could be a sensor at a wheel (bad, loose wire, or covered in debris, or cheap/wrong new wheel bearing etc.) - weak charging might also set ABS. a/c is sometimes just 2 o-rings and schrader valves plus a new charge of refrig. is the CEL on? that will kill cruise on all newer model cars. good luck

car likely needs struts - consider new rears at least since you are changing a wheel bearing. KYB is preferred but, you may want some special set-up or new springs or w'ever if you are planning to rally.

why extria no CrossTrek ?

no additive can 'repair' something broken, but there are a few I have or would use under certain circumstances; Subaru Coolant Conditioner Trans-X Techron SeaFoam HEET Stabil

investigate using a 'clay bar' . Detailers will sometimes put a section of nylon stocking on their hand and sweep an area of the car. anything that snags is a surface imperfection and they will clay bar it out before proceeding with the polish or wax. i have no experience with it but, I suspect you can find instructions and youtube videos demonstrating its use.

scan anyway - might find a pending code.

vacuum gauge testing might detect a sticking valve.

what engine is this? swap the coil pack (they are all interchangeable) with another - see if the code changes to the new cylinder with #3's coil.

plug wires changed?

did the cyl 3 sparkplug look different than the others? Any oil on the wire's boot?

there are a few, very few, additive products that seem to help with certain problems - but I have never read of either of those products suggested for use and i read a LOT on 3 Forums. i guess the main question is, will it hurt anything and just waste your money? seems to me, the car has not been properly diagnosed. what city are you near? maybe someone can recommend a mechanic to take another look. If you need your car to be reliable, you must spend some money on it occasionally - that's life. ALL of us car owners do that. $300 now could save you $3000-OR MORE, if you delay 3-6 months.

does the CEL flash or is it on steady and you get that code? If steady, you 'could' drive the car - not advisable, but folks do what they must do. FLASHING CEL means active/regular misfiring and expensive parts could be destroyed. I have doubts that rislone would help with the various problems that could create low compression in a single cylinder. how much is that stuff and what does it claim to do? are you near RetroRoo ? you should take your car there. http://retroroo.com/

vacuum gauge might confirm exhaust blockage. you can search for a chart of stuff it can help with. could be a weak fuel pump or something with fuel? how many miles since the timing belt system was serviced?

if the car has an uneven idle, you can spray carb cleaner around the vacuum lines and the intake manifold while it's running. listen for the engine to perhaps smooth-out or otherwise change it's sound/speed. Some people have even used propane but I'd think the fans and other air movement would make that trickier than directing a stream or spray of a flammable liquid. you buy/rent a vacuum gauge too - if it shows low, go around the engine compartment wiggle the vacuum lines while watching for a change in the gauges reading.

is this car new to you or did this problem develop recently? maybe have a helper really mash on the pedal while you watch at each wheel - maybe a brake caliper is cracked and flexing? sometimes brake hoses can 'balloon' - some people install master cylinder braces because of firewall flexing. what kind of tires? what brand/type of pads? I once bought some Wagner pads on clearance that were horrible.

can you demonstrate the noise bouncing the car's front? or on a test drive? the collision shop should fix it. If they balk, call the insurance company.

always remove the fill plug first anyway on the rear diff. soak that drain plug in Kroil or 50:50 ATF and acetone for a few days. even if it still won't budge, try s propane torch on it for 15 seconds, spray with kroil. let it cool, try again. use more heat if you have too - your changing the fluid anyway. Get a new plug. I used something like this to fill; change the o-rings on the suction and discharge hose connectors at the a/c compressor, and both schrader valves. Fill per the amount listed on a lablel under the hood somewhere.

any chance you can post a link to a recording? one of the gurus here might be able to tell something from it. is it 'regular' and changes with rpm? is it 'quick' like every revolution or more like every 2nd? Maybe watch the timing gear run with the covers off. Belt might be flopping around?

'dropped' valve guide? I think you have to drop the ex. mani. to inspect for that. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=26147542&postcount=5 https://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-service-seattle-dropped-exhaust-valve-guides-explained/

I found these on-line (sure looks like the pin is between 1 and 2 o'clock/about 45* ? on both pulleys); however, aren't there tabs/bosses on the back for a sensor? would those be the same? hope someone else has some better info. [img=http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn245/roostema4328/Photo028.jpg}

no dripping or odd smells? maybe arrange for a pressure test of the coolant system. comparing the sparkplugs side-by-side might be a good idea - if a cylinder is burning coolant, the plug might be distinctly different.

does it overheat? any idea if the thermostat is OEM-style? ever smell 'toasted marshmallows' or sweet-ish smell? coolant smells kinda like cooking sugar. put a small clamp or a coupla small zipties on the little overflow tube on the radiator neck. when you say you are loosing coolant, is that loss seen in the overflow bottle or the radiator?