1 Lucky Texan

sounds almost like a fusible link or some other major power issue. maybe double check the battery cables and the small wire to the starter too?

it is not common but, more info would help. did the timing belt break? how do you know it is seized?

more details on which car this is and how many kilometers? any sounds before it quit? any sounds when trying to start?

in all fairness, it wasn't insurance's fault the rims I had were no longer available, just extra frustration getting the car drivable.

yeah, it definitely offended my sense of order - but, i would have had to shell-out for the other strut. They also could not find 2 rims to match the other 2 (aftermarket) so, I asked how much $ they were allowing and I had to go find 4 rims. insurance isn't all it's cracked-up to be sometimes.

I wasn't happy when the collision center only replaced one strut. I think it's close call in some systems. I'd 'prefer' to have both sides of a braking system for instance to be the same components and wear level. Same for the struts and springs - but, i doubt there'd be a detectable difference for most of us most of the time..

^^^ what he said - check those 'tabs' at the bottom end of the box.

any dents in the trans pan? stuff in there is easily damaged.

I don't get that from 1-2 but, I DID have to futz around with seat position for a week or 2 after i got my WRX. One notch changes in seat position I guess made big differences on the smoothness of clutch use. try shifting the seat bottom for best clutch performance, then adjust the seat back for best steering wheel reach. Then, repeat if necessary.

well, I doubt an extension is approved by Subaru but, you may need to send an email to confirm. Wonder what the exclusion for mounting bikes on the trailer's rear is about? seems to me, If was going to violate 'someone's' guidelines, I'd choose the least dangerous one.

what about mounting the bikes on the back of the trailer?

I use one of those little hoses with the check valve.

do you need that to clear opening the hatch? would an equalizer hitch help with the extension? (I think that's what they're called - with the springs and chains)

yes

fingers crossed

look in the PS fluid reservoir while idling - I've had air in both my soobs' PS fluid and the WRX had this high-frequency 'notchy-grabby' feeling when turning. But, it would do it when parked and working the wheel back&forth. easy fixes - just o-rings. Sometimes it's a bad hose or clamp or tank.

I have read that most extended warranties are calculated to bring in 50% profit. Not a 'scam' but, definitely not a bargain. be sure to let all of us know the names of the players involved if things don't go well. Might help someone in the future to know who to avoid.

in post 17, he said it was an 04 WRX .

you will get a piston at TDC/valves closed every 180* turn in the firing order. 1-3-2-4 also, there are half-a-dozen youtube videos for Subaru leak down tests.

good idea about having the bank go to bat for you. sometimes, you just look someone in the eye and say, "How would YOU feel if this were happening to YOU?" (or, your wife, daughter, mother as appropriate) also, phrases like; "What am I supposed to say to my coworkers and family when they ask about how i was treated by...the bank, the warranty company, etc. and, "what kind of review am I supposed to post to Yelp or Angie's list about my treatment?" etc. also, asking to speak to someone's supervisor can help - particularly if you get the feeling someone is just 'parroting' their training or may not have any authority to negotiate or waive some rule. Always be polite, but be persistent. do not 'threaten' to sue. But, let them know when you are getting extremely frustrated, then, just politely say; "do you have a contact for your legal department? Please give it to me."

it's possible the previous owner or the dealership put something in it. maybe a different shop or radiator shop could confirm there was enough contaminate to reduce coolant flow. It may also be possible that the bad HG led to combustion products getting into the coolant, forming some kind of emulsion. there can be certain issues with mixing dexcool with other coolants that might cause a 'goo' to form. I'm not certain on those conditions though. generally, the burden of proof would be on them - particularly if you have plenty of documentation on the car's maintenance. I don't know how hard you want to fight the warranty company on this, but I feel you should try. If they continue to balk, tell them you'd be willing to pay for parts if they will pay for the labor??? good luck.

seems a little like a bad CV joint. is the vibration felt "in the car" or "in the steering wheel" ? might also confirm no brakes are dragging.

well, yeah, I 'assumed' he listed the car correctly but....good point!

accessory belt - those bearings go bad on that belt's idler and tensioner pulleys..

well,, fluid won't repair a bad gear or clutch - but many people have had bad experiences with gears clashing when using synthetic GL-5 in the trans. It's too slick to get the right speed on the synchros. But, it DOES seem more like you have a clutch problem so, maybe the above suggestion is worth pursuing.