1 Lucky Texan

can you demonstrate the noise bouncing the car's front? or on a test drive? the collision shop should fix it. If they balk, call the insurance company.

always remove the fill plug first anyway on the rear diff. soak that drain plug in Kroil or 50:50 ATF and acetone for a few days. even if it still won't budge, try s propane torch on it for 15 seconds, spray with kroil. let it cool, try again. use more heat if you have too - your changing the fluid anyway. Get a new plug. I used something like this to fill; change the o-rings on the suction and discharge hose connectors at the a/c compressor, and both schrader valves. Fill per the amount listed on a lablel under the hood somewhere.

any chance you can post a link to a recording? one of the gurus here might be able to tell something from it. is it 'regular' and changes with rpm? is it 'quick' like every revolution or more like every 2nd? Maybe watch the timing gear run with the covers off. Belt might be flopping around?

'dropped' valve guide? I think you have to drop the ex. mani. to inspect for that. http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=26147542&postcount=5 https://allwheeldriveauto.com/subaru-service-seattle-dropped-exhaust-valve-guides-explained/

I found these on-line (sure looks like the pin is between 1 and 2 o'clock/about 45* ? on both pulleys); however, aren't there tabs/bosses on the back for a sensor? would those be the same? hope someone else has some better info. [img=http://i306.photobucket.com/albums/nn245/roostema4328/Photo028.jpg}

no dripping or odd smells? maybe arrange for a pressure test of the coolant system. comparing the sparkplugs side-by-side might be a good idea - if a cylinder is burning coolant, the plug might be distinctly different.

does it overheat? any idea if the thermostat is OEM-style? ever smell 'toasted marshmallows' or sweet-ish smell? coolant smells kinda like cooking sugar. put a small clamp or a coupla small zipties on the little overflow tube on the radiator neck. when you say you are loosing coolant, is that loss seen in the overflow bottle or the radiator?

sounds almost like a fusible link or some other major power issue. maybe double check the battery cables and the small wire to the starter too?

it is not common but, more info would help. did the timing belt break? how do you know it is seized?

more details on which car this is and how many kilometers? any sounds before it quit? any sounds when trying to start?

in all fairness, it wasn't insurance's fault the rims I had were no longer available, just extra frustration getting the car drivable.

yeah, it definitely offended my sense of order - but, i would have had to shell-out for the other strut. They also could not find 2 rims to match the other 2 (aftermarket) so, I asked how much $ they were allowing and I had to go find 4 rims. insurance isn't all it's cracked-up to be sometimes.

I wasn't happy when the collision center only replaced one strut. I think it's close call in some systems. I'd 'prefer' to have both sides of a braking system for instance to be the same components and wear level. Same for the struts and springs - but, i doubt there'd be a detectable difference for most of us most of the time..

^^^ what he said - check those 'tabs' at the bottom end of the box.

any dents in the trans pan? stuff in there is easily damaged.

I don't get that from 1-2 but, I DID have to futz around with seat position for a week or 2 after i got my WRX. One notch changes in seat position I guess made big differences on the smoothness of clutch use. try shifting the seat bottom for best clutch performance, then adjust the seat back for best steering wheel reach. Then, repeat if necessary.

well, I doubt an extension is approved by Subaru but, you may need to send an email to confirm. Wonder what the exclusion for mounting bikes on the trailer's rear is about? seems to me, If was going to violate 'someone's' guidelines, I'd choose the least dangerous one.

what about mounting the bikes on the back of the trailer?

I use one of those little hoses with the check valve.

do you need that to clear opening the hatch? would an equalizer hitch help with the extension? (I think that's what they're called - with the springs and chains)

yes

fingers crossed

look in the PS fluid reservoir while idling - I've had air in both my soobs' PS fluid and the WRX had this high-frequency 'notchy-grabby' feeling when turning. But, it would do it when parked and working the wheel back&forth. easy fixes - just o-rings. Sometimes it's a bad hose or clamp or tank.

I have read that most extended warranties are calculated to bring in 50% profit. Not a 'scam' but, definitely not a bargain. be sure to let all of us know the names of the players involved if things don't go well. Might help someone in the future to know who to avoid.

in post 17, he said it was an 04 WRX .