1 Lucky Texan

that's called a 'Tachometer' and shows engine rpm (revolutions per minute) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tachometer You seem to have a car with an automatic transmission. If so, you can pretty-much ignore the tachometer. Of course, if you notice odd behavior from it when you experience a problem with the car - you should mention it to your mechanic. Also, when the car's shifter is in Park or N (neutral) never press the accelerator such that the Tachomoter's needle stays in the red zone. A relative with more familiarity with cars might be able to give you some more tips about the entire gauge cluster (as well as other parts/systems in your car), and your owner's manual will have a little information too.

Still on the old tank of fuel? moisture/phase separation in fuel? maybe try some HEET.

I guess there's some confusion. Do you have an AWD vehicle or a FWD Legacy. I think FWD went away about 1996? ebay has LSDs for the front diffs of Subarus from several hundred to $1500 or so. Not sure on application to your car's trans. Cusco, OBX, Quaife, maybe Giken... just need to email, research what fits that trans. here's a thread about the OBX - http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=700370&highlight=obx+diff

meh - many makers of tools/supplies used by mechanics make/made promo items featuring female models. You see much the same in auto, boating and other similar magazines popular with men. If there were a history of auto repair shops staffed by females, there'd be calendars and posters of shirtless ,buff young men holding babies. or Italian shoes.

I believe there's one or 2 aftermarket options for front LSD but, not 'stock'/OEM (that I know of...?) and not cheap/trivial to install. Seems like there was one on ebay I saw a long time ago..... might be some Aussie sandrails that run like that, not sure. check over at NASIOC too.

I doubt there would be interior colors offered in one year so close in shade as to be confused. could your car, or the previous vehicle you mentioned, have had a custom/replacement interior?

you would be EXTREMELY lucky to suffer a timing belt failure without valve destruction in that 2.5. I changed my WRX's timing stuff at 8.5 years, mileage was way under the 105K. Glad I did too, the toothed idler was crunchy and a little wobbly. Another was very loose and slightly noisy. belt was fine. That idler would have puked it's bearings before 105K I feel certain. And, I will probably accelerate the next change to 6 years or so. (unless I start putting more miles on) because I didn't change the waterpump or cam/crank seals.

if it has factory security - you can get used remotes. From ebay or a forum member in the classifieds, etc. use the key to go into the routine to 'register' the remote. check cars101.com for instructions. It's tricky - you may need help from a dealer or mechanic.

the door pulls on the front doors, particularly the driver's side, were getting severely wrinkled and the vinyl w'ever covering was splitting and getting pokey. I found some velcro drink 'cozys' that you wrap around a bottle or can on sale for $1 - , they aren't a good color match, but they hide the problem. - so far the wife considers them a good solution (whew!)

vacuum gauge testing is cheap/free and might help rule-out one or two problems. Symptoms kinda seem like car might be running lean. You could also try spraying some carb cleaner around vacuum lines and intake manifold when it is missing at idle - listen for it to smooth out if it sucks in some cleaner. fuel pressure maybe low?

fuel smell could be rusted-thru filler tube.

no oil on the plug wire boots? was the timing belt system serviced at about 105K miles? One thing that kinda fits the symptoms would be a bad Engine temp Sensor keeping the car 'choked'. Some data from the ECU might help confirm that. There may also be an ohmmeter check in the FSM for that sensor - others may know what to look for.

yeah, lock and unlock the car with the remote fob. That might get a confused security system back in sync.

do you have a CD stuck in the player?

just replace it - at worst, you might waste another few months of life and, you will have a known good battery in the system. If you have more starting problems, you will know one part of the system is good for further troubleshooting.

well, a shop should have both experience and equipment for proper bearing replacement. There are hub 'tamers' and 'sharks' ,etc. - DIY tools. maybe even borrow similar tools from a parts store - but a shop will have a hydraulic press. If they can't get it out of a knuckle, you wouldn't have either and will need to get a knuckle, maybe from a junkyard? That ebay bearing is marked NTN and japan so, probably OEM. Fairtax should have a better idea of how much $/hassle it is for a first-time DIY job. I just suggested it as an 'intermediate' approach.

when was the timing belt changed? has the car been well maintained? miles? new to you? check engine light on? general condition...more details please.

bent/broken caliper bracket? I think someone is gonna have to watch the brakes engage/release while a helper stands on the pedal. no sign of a bad wheel bearing I guess?

Rainy - ask for a shop recommendation in a new thread. Might be fortunate enough that another member here knows a good mechanic near your city. You may not need new rotors if they are fairly smooth and above the minimum thickness stamped on them. Often, that wobble feeling comes after a panic stop and holding the brakes clamped in one spot waiting for a light or train, Sometimes, lightly dragging the brakes with your left foot for 2-3 blocks - followed immediately by a mile cool-down run, will clear that uneven deposit off. machining rotors or replacing will do the same thing - for more $$$.

stick a wire/toothpick/w'ever in the hole, mark the depth, pull it out and compare to the bolt's length?

volts don't mean that much when you need to push power to something. could be bad cables or a corroded connection somewhere?

yeah, a pressure test and eyes on the area should help - maybe a part is cracked?

consider taking your knuckles and new bearings to a shop and pay them to swap.

dang - hoping it isn't HGs. if it overheats again, pull over and, with the engine running, see if either; 1. there are bubbles coming up thru the coolant in the overflow tank or 2. the overflow bottle is filled vey high or spilling over. (don't remove the rad cap on a hot engine!)

yeah, could be a non-oem style t'stat in there now, or a bad t'stat. if you replace it, get OEM (or the oem Stant)