1 Lucky Texan

any chance this compressor can be found on some Nissan or Mazda or ???

on 2 cars, only have had o-rings and hoses actually fail. maybe hoses last longer in cooler climates?

thanx, dunno how I confused that. changed title still a little far for me.

decades ago, there were concerns that the bearings were just coated to prevent rust and NEEDED to be properly re-packed. can't remember if that was disproved or not. try a search on the topic? (man I'm getting old)

https://subarufl4tfest.com/activities/fl4tfestcelebration/ wasn't sure where to post it but, there does seem to be an off-road event along with a rally, etc.

see if the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator is wet with fuel. maybe the FPR's diaphragm is leaking.

I admit to not having experience with newer cars, but likely that bushing in your control arm can be pressed out and a new one installed. You will want to find a highly rated full service shop, or check with the dealer. If you have the skills, you could remove the arm and take it to a shop with a hydraulic press and have them swap the bushing out. Someone here may know of a subaru-friendly independent shop near marietta.

that's an odd code for the 6 cylinder engine. given the head gasket issue too, maybe a JDM swap could work for you. if you need help confirming/diagnosing.'triaging' the car, check with @GeneralDisorder - maybe drive there?

the level in the o'flow should only go up a few ounces, then those few ounces should be pulled back into the rad during cooling off. kinda seems like you are experiencing a lot more coolant going into the o'flow on a single drive, that does point to headgaskets (more so if you can spot bubbles when hot and idling) if, it takes several drives to fill up the o'flow, that seems more like an issue with the rad cap or maybe some air leak somewhere.

you're low on coolant - should up at the top of the inner seal. did you install an OEM-style thermostat? make sure there's no build-up of grass/bugs type debris between the rad and the ac condenser. confirm fans are OK cut the bottom of the o'flow tube at 45* angle. If the o'flow bottle is dirty, take it out and put some pieces of ice in it and shake like crazy. until you think this is solved, check coolant level IN THE RADIATOR , the o'flow bottle is an untrustworthy reflection of total coolant volume.

did you get new tires?

no numbers on it?

I'm wondering if there's a way to put a Koni-type insert in your old struts?

The pinks I put on my 06 wrx wagon dropped it about 3/4 inch. But, I dunno what the free length of them or my original springs was.

new block? I'd say that's the source as they are sand cast. At least, I've read that before. probably not worth changing anything but....?

make sure the clutch lever isn't cracked.

refresh all ground connections. I have read, once or twice, of iron debris collecting on the face of the crank angle sensor causing misfires....

That BATT light should be tested at key-0n, before start, with the other warning lights.

usually that bulb comes on when the alt is not working. Sometimes very dim or flickering if one of the diodes in the 'trio' go bad. Unless BMW is weirdly different.

Trim level CRV we got has manual lift gate. Maybe check all the trim levels on the Forries. It also has a big button on the center of the dash to disable stop/start. Just have to train yourself to push it each time you start the car. Do the newer Subarus still make you navigate thru touchscreen pages to disable ss? CRV has quite poor rear visibility - you NEED that back-up camera!

When we bought my wife's 2021 Honda CR-V, one of the first vehicles we drove was a Forester. We both felt it was very nice and ultimately only rejected for the seats. Same thing with a Mazda too. Some makers have 'bolsters' on the seats that are annoying for larger people. The Buick we drove seemed like an all-around joke.

IF fuel trims and knock sensor and vacuum, and performance, etc. are all OK, you could ignore the code. Problem is, many locales would never allow the car to pass emissions/safety test, AND, the cel would be on all the time - masking any new problem detection. just eliminate every other possible cause before jumping to a new after-cat sensor or new cat. converter.

6 cyl or 4cyl? scan for and make note of any other codes including 'pending' codes. Clear the codes and see how quickly the P0420 comes back and any other codes as well. many people jump to changing the cat conv (and of course they do go bad) but, that code can be caused by exhaust leaks, vacuum leaks or bad wiring. The code on the 4 cylinder cars is only a 'nanny' code intending to monitor cat efficiency but is NOT used to alter any air:fuel ratios or other operating parameters.

if you can fit a 'modern' rack in there, the STis (like maybe 05, 06) have a quicker ratio, like 15:1 . check cars101.com for when that started/other years....

a really cherry Forester from about 2010 ??? not sure really - the older any car gets, the less important its brand or 'relative reliability' and the more important its history of care/repair and its current condition. in other words, a given 13 year old Fiat 'could' be a better purchase than a given 13 year old Honda. Find a local mechanic and ask if he has any customers looking to sell, also ask about bringing him a car for a pre-purchase inspection. Try not to buy another person's 'headache'.