1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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OK, don't seem to be able to put the pics into a gallery here. I have a Google+ album i THINK I can share after you email me your e-addy. -
I'll take some pics tonight before packaging them. Dunno how close an estimate I can get but, it'll work out. PayPal is fine. If you want, you can check-out my rating on ebay (mostly purchases - user 1_lucky_texan 1_lucky_texan ) I don't want to make 2 trips to ship so, we could do something like you PP $45 to me and I'll absorb any amount over $20, or refund via PP w'ever is saved if under? They aren't all that heavy and will nest togther a lot ( I think ) so weight and dim weight should be OK. or if I can get a good weight, i THINK my shipping guy here at work can get a close number. it'll work-out.
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I will begin checking into shipping. My guess is no less than $13-$14 . seems unlikely to be over $22-$25 though. just to be clear, this is front and rear stock springs as removed from the struts on my 06 WRX WAGON. approx 1800-1900 miles. no other parts. If I can jam them into a flat rate box, I might do that. Otherwise, i will use UPS. The UPS hub is close to my work and we will have tracking and some insurance. pm me your address. (be sure to give me w'ever address is best for you to receive a package.)
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on that car, there is a separate Engine Temp Sensor whose wiring or guts 'MIGHT' fail in such a manor the ECU is told the engine is cold. but, 1800 is quite high. Not sure a new temp sensor would cure the problem. you might try tapping on the MAF. I have recently read of some MAF issues with internal connections. is the CEL on? any blink codes available? maybe someone else will have an idea.
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ah, I was wrong - it's the legacy platform. No recall on the Impreza platform evidently.
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95-98 also had a recall concerning spring corrosion in certain states; http://www.cars101.com/recalls.html I still have the stock springs from my 06 WRX - low miles(swapped slightly lower SPT srinsg at about 1900 miles). but I have no idea if they are compatible with your car. shipping plus $25 .
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someone on one of the Forums had a very odd broken spring. The crack was such the the spring would 'marry' itself back to gether with pressure. very hard to spot where the separation was. But I don't recall waht the noise was like or how he discovered it. good luck. EDIT; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/32110-help-w-broken-front-coil-spring-on-1996-legacy-outback/?hl=%2Bbroken+%2Bspring+%2Bcrack&do=findComment&comment=260019
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what did the 'local shop' feel was causing the wandering? can you find another shop to inspect the steering/suspension? there are plenty of parts that can lead to loose suspension/steering. rack bushings, control arm bushings,sway bar mounts and endlinks, etc. what kind of tires are on the car? properly inflated? (I rode in someone's car once that had radials at one end and bias ply on the other - felt like we we trying to balance the car on top of a bowling ball!)
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the older a car is, the less important the brand's reliability, and the more important it's past care and present condition become. An individual used Fiat could be a better buy than a certain used Honda. Finding a good mechanic near you to perform a pre-purchase inspection will probably be well-worth the money/hassle.
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yep - WRXes have often been beat-on severely. paying a mechanic to drop the pipe and check turbo shaft play and generally look-over things could save you MAJOR $$$$$.
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ducking in to pimp my 06 WRX Wagon's original springs. I swapped-in SPT PInks early on so, these stock springs only have about 1900 miles on them. like to get shipping + $25 . I could try to measure free-length and other dimensions if needed. (I also have my original axle-back but, shipping would be crazy on that) local pickup of course is fine if you live in DFW area or have someone traveling from here.
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you might also check here; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/111-gen-1-1995-1999/248329-ej22-ej18-swap-into-ej25d-dohc-vehicle.html
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probably a good idea to inspect the cam pulley for a crack. but, yeah, I've had nuts and bolts make noises like that when they shift a little. make certain you're using the dash line at the back of the crank sprocket for timing the belt. NOT the arrow on the front.
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I think it's called the input shaft bearing. I occasionally read abou t it going bad. Probably wise to use a new clutch release bearing too.
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I guess it depends on how tightly it's retained. if you could clean the area extremely well, maybe some super glue on a screwdriver could work. Don't get in a hurry and let it cure properly. maybe a pair of snap-ring pliers? the kind set-up for 'external' rings? but, there may not be enough clearance?
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plan on making huge amounts of power??? maybe dog tooth gears for 1st and 2nd ?
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<p>nvrmd</p>
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how practical would this be?; http://scorpionsubaru.com/low.htm about $1225 US BEFORE shipping from Oz.
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does that mean my 06 WRX is 4.44? if so, I can tell you there were some other small changes made starting in 06. better 1st gear synchro is the one I recall. Might be worth looking a little harder for an 06 or newer trans i guess?
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at one time, folks were getting the dual range gearboxes from Australia - something like that still possible?
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based on the description, it does seem like a CV joint. Even more likely if a rubber boot (at either end) is torn. Also, if one of them is an aftermarket/rebuilt - they may have a reduced lifespan compared to OEM. But, tell us if this is a 'jerkiness' felt in the car or just a sound? also, to be clear, this isn't something you hear/feel WHILE rotating the steering wheel - but something you hear during the car's turn right?
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yeah, I was trying to dream-up some way the vibration from the first attempt was pulling on a wire or ground connection and making better contact. Maybe before the first bump of the day, he could get under the hood and tap on the starter and push/pull on some cables????
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^^^ yep - also look for separated crank pulley, but, seems unlikely if the sound was actually like that in the video.
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a month or 2 huh? OL is open loop. maybe your MAF is intermittent.? hope someone else chimes in with some direction for you.
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not sure but what I see as fuel trims are mostly OK. single digits on an old car are not that bad. Being negative 'could' mean that there's a little misfiring /poor burning occasionally and the ECU is pulling back some fuel. (negative numbers are lean, pos. numbers are rich) if you recently disconnected the battery, that may be why you're showing OL. So, the numbers you have may not be very diagnostic as the ECU is using a fixed map. advance seems weird, like a bad knock sensor? MAF and MAP ? dunno what's up with those, maybe someone else will have some insight.
