1 Lucky Texan

others may know if 15 will fit. I'm gonna say there's better chance they won't - clearing the brake caliper would be the issue. bolt pattern,hub centric and offset are likely good. I'm just not sure. is it hard to try one?

on the times when it cranks on the first key-turn, does it crank slowly? if the headlights were on, would they dim on that first attempt? - stay bright but dim on the second (successful) attempt? suppose you jumped it with another car/battery on that very first attempt? would it start immediately?

same brand and model and wear? if so, you may have other problems unrelated to the wheel issue. (though of course, tires can have tread separation and rims can be bent/off-center)

could you take the spacers back for a refund if the problem remains? what size TIRES are on the car now? is there any jerkiness in a tight circle on dry pavement? auto or stick?

there can be multiple issues. The rims may be an improper offset and a tire(s) could be rubbing. Also, stress could be put on the wheel bearings. There could be -uh- centralizing? , problems if the center hole is not correct for the hub. the main problem is rolling radius. If one or more tires are a different ACTUAL size, it can cause torque bind. bottom line, you are right to be concerned about this and it needs to be investigated/corrected soon. check ebay and maybe craigslist for rims. Try to confirm rims are hub centric for Soobs and have the proper offset. Make sure tires are the same brand/model/size and close to each other in wear.

probably unnecessary now but, an oil analysis (Polaris, Blackstone labs, etc.) would find the bearing metals if an internal part is failing.

I have read of one or 2 people needing to clean debris from, or replace a Crank Position Sensor. als, kInda wonder if the car might start if you held the gas pedal on the floor. But, it does seem very much like a problem in the ignition switch or a wiring harness.... very odd.

if the steeering feels OK, I'd just look in the reservoir for bubbles/foam while idling. If none, I'd pursue the noise issue further or run the car without the PS belt. to see if the pump is causing the noise. If not, run the pump til it becomes a real issue. (if you do see bubbles, just start with o-rings, hose clamps w'ever)

When I did my WRX , the toothed idler was rough-feeling and slightly wobbly - spun like skate wheel. One other idler also was very loose as well. Belt looked great. belts seem to be tough, but when a roller pukes its bearings, that can cause issues for some of us. At least a 2.2 won't lunch its valves if the timing slips.

just try to keep things lined up to protect that seal in there.

hard to say about the sound. On my laptop, best guess would be a bearing. perhaps accesory belt tensioner ? If you could be allowed to briefly run the car with the belts removed, that might help pin-down the noise source. also, PS systems on Soobs frequently suck air in thru bad o-rings or hose connections (even cracked fluid tanks) from the suction side of the reservoir. this can cause enough foaming/bubbles to push a little fluid out the reservoir. But fluid at the pump itself could be something more serious.

loose/broken ground(s) wire could make that electrical interference. also, see if it comes/goes with turning the defroster off/on for the hatch. Some of our cars can pick-up noise from a broken heating element/trace clunk thunk? not sure, motor or trans mount could have been damaged with the work - dunno why that would be temp dependent. I've read of many people using hose clamps on heat shields.

setting aside the help you might get repairing your car, i think he means, less driving to a parts store that will read a code. That is, you get a code, you walk into your own house to get a reader instead of driving 2 miles to VatoZone and back.

you could check around the Forums' classified ads for a radio. Folks that upgrade their head units often have original HUs for sale. or check Crutchfield.com for a new HU.

many times have read that binding becomes worse in 5spds after they are warmed-up. doesn't mean you shouldn't investigate; carrier bearings, u-joints , dragging brakes , diffs or axles first.

NASIOC would be a forum you'd want to check.

well, vacuum tests seem to say the major mechanical stuff is in decent shape. No exhaust blockage either. and you noted the knock sensor has been changed twice too. maybe fuel trim numbers or other data ? will help if you can retrieve them from the ECU.

check that parts list. You want them to have used the multilayer steel gasket like the turbo motors get.

hope everyone feels OK from the wreck.

Denso would be preferred. Could there be rodent-chewed or otherwise damaged wiring from that area of the car?

details on car? what brand sensor?

I've had a bad battery set those codes and throw my WRX into limp mode. reset and see if/how quickly the codes come back. Also, make darn certain your engine oil system is in top shape. Double check battery and charging system.

if one of those techniques works 2-3 more times, I'd say you have a place to start troubleshooting. does your CD player work? there have been stuck CDs in the past causing parasitic drain. Also, if you can use an ammeter, start pulling fuses. You might see a major drop when the guilty circuit loses its fuse.

people have accidentally hit the parking switch on top of the steering column (virgin switch) on many occasions. Might be easy to overlook too. any way, sounds like checking for parasitic drain would be a good idea. consider also, a battery that has had multiple complete drain events will have limited life span.

a good .Soob mech might also be able to drop the pipe and check the turbo for shaft play - if that's an option, probably worth paying for.