1 Lucky Texan

ivans imports has torn into them ;http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/134322-repaird-awd-center-diff/?hl=%2Bcenter+%2Bdiff

wow I have no useful input

if it's like the delayed engagement seen in soob trans, try some Trans-X additive.

is that considered a 'suspension' part? there's a recall that might be related check over at cars101.com

should be fine. you might also check ebay and craigslist for used tires that may closely match the other 2 on her car in wear.

might be labeled CRC or K&W ? a few good reviews at Amazon; http://www.amazon.com/CRC-402015-Trans-X-Slip-Stop-Leak-Fix/dp/B000CITXQM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8

well, just idling i guess the Trans-X would start to circulate - might free things up. Unless you're saying you have no transportation in which case food may be a bigger priority!

if there's any indication the car was driven thru very high water - just have the diff fluid replaced. Or do it anyway, when was it swapped last? it's def not common, but possible for a diff's vent to suck in water if fording high water.

I think they also have a hi/lo operation. Just that, it's a common symptom when fans fail, you get good cooling when moving, then overheat at idle. I suppose some restriction in the radiator could have similar symptoms. bad news on the HGs though. ugh

I'd def. try Trans-X treatment first. some folks have good luck with it - though it seems it needs to be re-freshed every year or so? try a search for threads about that.

hmm...you sure the fans are working properly?

maybe charge with UV dye mixed refrigerant? be sure to check the schrader/charge valves.

um, they replaced all 4 tires right?

what's wrong with yours? the plunger and contacts are available in re-work 'kits'.

if you pull a coupla plugs, are they wet with fuel? If so, You might try starting with the pedal on the floor while cranking. On fuel injected cars, that makes the ECU hold back fuel - it's the 'clear flood' signal. could the timing belt have slipped?

well, old sparkplug cables can become brittle/compromised in such a way that, most particularly in 'moist' weather conditions, they cause misfires. Seems unlikely to cause an actual stall, but, misting the idling car's engine with a plant sprayer, at night, will sometimes cause rough running and you will see arcs from the high voltage bypassing thru the insulation. so, any correlation with your symptoms and wet weather? Is the problem MORE or LESS likely as the car warms up/dries out? a poor/intermittent ground connection or harness could cause your problem. You could try gently pulling/pushing on cables while the car is idling.

It's been a while, but I can recall 2-3 threads of intermittent crank sensor failures on older soobs. But, it seems like they were temp related. cheap part to try. also, is there any correlation with rain? maybe your wires or coil are arcing?

I chock the front wheels, pull the parking brake to the first click, lift the rear at the diff and use stands at the flat-jacking pinchwelds. Then, pull the little rubbder plugs out of the backing plates. Use a flat blade screwdriver and rotate the star wheel UP until the wheel won't turn. Put the plug back in. repeat for the other side. that should do it. It is possible the little shoes are worn out I guess. You can buy a rebuild kit. i have never adjusted the inside so, dunno how much wear on the shoes can be created by that adjustment.

when was the timing belt system serviced last on that car? You will bend valves if it fails. And it's rarely the belt that fails, an idler will seize or puke it's bearings. if you suspect the car was neglected, or even just has normal build-up with age, nothing wrong with a throttle-body and maybe IACV cleaning, and a SeaFoam vacuum line or spray-nozzle treatment. many people like Marvel Mystery Oil treatments too, mostly for hydraulic lifters I guess. Techron seems to actually work. not sure it's better than SeaFoam in the tank though... Subaru Coolant Conditioner can help slow/stop/prevent small coolant leaks - ONLY install per bottle directions - ONE bottle max. (if you drain and re-fill the cooling system and swap any parts, ONLY use an OEM style thermostat - there IS a difference)

is the check engine light on? automatic transmission? KYB struts are the most commonly preferred. you can find DIY help here and elsewhere online for that.

sweet - should be easy/cheap fix!

yeah, likely to spew codes if a ground were really bad. But, some codes stay 'pending' unless they occur 2 or more times within X drive cycles w'ever. might be nice to see what the fuel trims are if you can get frezeframe or live data. Some smartphones apps can do that with a $20 elm327 BT adapter i think. My old Innova scanner can get FF data. related to other posts - if the car runs better in open-loop or immediately after a hard reset, there's likely bad data from an A:F sensor. or related sensor. O2, MAF, Knock, maybe engine temp, etc.

does the ECU send a 5v signal to some of those sensors? maybe that is screwed-up or those sensors have a common (but poor) ground?

in a turn, force is vectored to the outside of the turn so, maybe start there as you say. After a run on the highway, compare the temperature of the rear hubs - side-to-side. The hotter one may have a bad wheel bearing or some craziness with the brakes. def check the lugs/studs too. You could lift the 2 rear corners and try to lift/rock the wheel up/down in a 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock manner. Shouldn't be any motion. (again, compare side-to-side). I found a bad wheel bearing that way, the tire rocked about 2mm. Some folks say you can rest a hand on the spring and rotate the wheel - feeling for roughness/vibration.

any big pothole strikes, wrecks or work done before this began? you hear the noise in reverse too?