1 Lucky Texan

^^^ what he said also, if you have the original timing belt, you are overdue to change it.

is it 'really' getting hot? Does the gauge even slow-down near the 'normal' reading or does it just peg-out? might double-check the alternator's output. has someone removed the thermostat or used an aftermarket type?

AWD right? weren't there some FWD 95s ?

charcoal canister might be flooded, gas cap seal cracked (but, seems like you get pressure build-up in the tank so, not likely), evap hoses loose/cracked, etc. there should not be any significant pressure differential in the tank if the various fill and purge valves are working correctly. While rare, some people get spiders clogging evap drain hoses.

usually folks get evap codes with evap problems but, it sure seems like a bad/clogged Purge valve or similar. in very cold weather, some of the fuel systems clamps underhood can leak.... interesting

make darn certain someone hasn't used the wrong fluid in the diff.

off topic somewhat but, wondering if anyone has tried SurTrak axles? At least one reviewer at Amazon says he has no vibration from it. http://www.amazon.com/SurTrack-HO-8047-CV-Axle-Shaft/dp/B00DCNNWW0 they appear to be new Chinese. website is trakmotive; https://trakmotive.mycarparts.net/products/TrakMotive%20CV%20Axles-SB-8011?product_application_id=4985682242

the inner joint is less exposed to dirt than the outer one - and they are robust and rarely fail without some warning, Everything I've read advises to definitely re-use it if possible. if the outer boot has been open for some time, that's more risky, but might not be not a show-stopper. Also, Febest has joints for sale on Amazon but I have not read of anyone trying them yet. similar to this; http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DMA2MN8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=IDEFQ97CY9SH&coliid=I1JL2WBJ09B8RO

yeah, highly recommend; 1. rebuild your axle, 2. rebuild a used Subaru axle, 3. rebuilt from FWE in Colorado

years ago, my middle daughter owned a 90 maxima that would occasionally stall-out, most often when turning thru an intersection. it was the 'motor control relay' . $20 fix. so, I believe it 'could' be something like that. (suggested to me on the nissan Usenet group by a Nissan Tech in Florida - gotta luv the internet!)

possible - what led you to do the work listed in the first post? how many miles/months since last TB change?

has it ever done it with the engine still cold? you said no CEL but, have you scanned for pending codes? TPS might be possible culprit. some folks have had crank position sensors be intermittent when they get hot.(dunno why you wouldn't get a code for that though) just some wild guesses.

it isn't really giving up. It's just which is likely to be the better approach to getting the car back on the road. You're kinda deep and seem to have a lot of confidence so, if one of the gurus responds with some advice, i bet you can get this trans going. Wouldn't hurt to price some used ones at least.

yeah, I'd COUNT all 200+ teeth on both belts to absolutely confirm they are the same. then, count teeth from mark-to-mark before AND after pulling the pin of the tensioner. Then again after rotating the crank a coupla times by hand - before starting.

^^^ +1 do it at night and you might see the coil or wires arcing

tires woulds be the main issues, but i recall Subaru and maybe some other brands forced to offer extended warranties because they had some cars' odos off by over 3%

what would that mls Felpro part number be there lieutenant crawlerdan?

the above may be why the subaru t'stat needs a larger wax capsule;

at 208,000 miles, if you can't make yourself confident that chasing the the treads with a tap - or use of a helicoil (or similar repair - others here can advise better than I if that could work) then I'd think a used engine would be a good option. Might find one with 1/3 - 1/2 the miles of the present engine.

might be more feedback for this car at NASIOC.

the car is in limp mode. If the car has been well maintained and oil level/quality is good and there have been no wrecks/recent repairs (have there?) , I would start by clearing the code. A code reader can do this - or, disconnecting the neg. battery terminal, stepping on the brake pedal a coupla times, and maybe also waiting 10-20 minutes (or, disconn. neg. batt. terminal at bedtime, re-conn. in the morning) then, see if the code comes back immediately. If it does, probably needs the attention of a mechanic that could properly diagnose it according to the factory service manual.

^^^ great post for a smartphone, search ' elm327 ' BT adapter as mentioned.

what is the history of the car? our cars NEED an OEM-style t'stat so, that must be confirmed. A bad rad cap could also be an issue. Worst case - bad headgasket.

OBD I isn't likely to work with a handheld - not sure about a laptop with a cable and FreeSSM. THose should be able to use the 'blink code' method if you connect some connectors under the dash. I think you can make an '07 car display the code - I can never recall the procedure. You could also try clearing the code with a battery disconnect. any decent reader should read it - or go to PepBoys, O'Reilly's , etc.

built in.