1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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Teach me about OBD II Scanners before buying one
1 Lucky Texan replied to Loyale 2.7 Turbo's topic in Shop Talk
my only experience is with my old Innova (maybe also called Equus ?) 3100a (there are several models - likely soime much better ones nowadays. the 3100a connects to all 4 OBD2 protocols and canbus. It has yet to fail to connect to what I've tried - including a Mercedes that would NOT connect to another co-worker's laptop. It was about $100 USD way back when I bought it. maybe you could find a working used one? ? -
Teach me about OBD II Scanners before buying one
1 Lucky Texan replied to Loyale 2.7 Turbo's topic in Shop Talk
if you will be helping friends/family members, there's a certain ease with the handheld units. They are easy to haul around or loan out, less concern about theft or damage. elm327 device and Torque or similar app on a smartphone might be the next most convenient. A laptop is not really convenient - but it's powerful and the software available like Romraider and FreeSSM of course have almost the ultimate range of utility. anything wired can be a little 'fiddly' and there;s the risk of kicking it or getting tangled. -
it was an option in my 03. But they were all built with the capacity to receive the filter. basically, if it was a standard feature on the model you bought - someone forgot to install it. digging around at cars101.com might get you an precise answer, but I doubt it's worth the hassle.
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if you suspect it, you haven't lost much 'utility' from it if it is 60K miles old and you decide to swap it. I'm sure folks could report examples of thermostats lasting a very longtime. Some people swap them whenever they drain/refill their coolant. also, they can be tested on in a pot of water on the stove, I test new ones before they go in too.
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ah, 2.2 - the worst that would do is leave you stranded if the belt was thrown.
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you need to do a lot more investigation into the timing belt. From what I have read, the belt rarely breaks - but one or 2 idlers will explode, or possibly the tensioner will fail. When I did mine, 2 idlers were very worn and one was a little loose and 'dry' sounding. Plus, the tensioner was weak - only 52K miles! It should be done every 105,000 miles , OR 105 months, whichever comes first. If someone did a quick belt-swap without replacing the idlers - and maybe the tensioner and water pump - it's a time bomb waiting to bend the valves.
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do the poor running episodes correspond with dew/rain.fog type weather? Might be old plug wires or coil shorting-out. Could also be oil getting on the plug wire boots. has the car been maintained well? any recent work done or wrecks before this problem began? how many miles and was the timing belt changed on schedule?
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I don't think that will help at all. just run them for 30-40K miles and then pull one for inspection - replace if worn of course.
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wheel alignment probably not necessary. Inspection may be all that is required - compare sides to each other for appearance, how solid/loose the axles feel when shifted about. if the boots are torn, if wheels rotate without the inner cup of the axle turning, etc. If nothing is clear - probably best to have a professional take a look. Tires MUST be the same size/brand/model and close to each other in wear for regular use. For use of emergency spare - check the manual for the car, many models need use of the FWD fuse if automatic, other speed/distance limitations for manual trans cars.
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the t'stat MUST be an OEM-style (many people use a Stant Xacstat) but, it should look like this; And it would be a good idea to replace it - typical HG failure would show bubbles in the radiator and often push fluid into the overflow tank. thermostats can be tested in a pot of water on the stove top. They should open just before the water boils. I always test a new one. You could also test your old one. DO NOT let pets or kids have access to radiator coolant (antifreeze) VERY toxic. clean-up any spills and don't leave any open containers/pans unattended. It tastes sweet and critters/kids will drink it and get sick or die. Kills about a dozen people every year i think. A new radiator cap could be a good idea too. No one reports problems using Subaru Coolant Conditioner (one bottle only - follow directions) and some have reported it slowed or stopped drips and leaks. It will do NOTHING for internal HG failure.
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well, to answer generally, pretty sure all the Subaru turbo cars on your list can be upgraded with parts as well as 'tuned' by reflashing the ECU . In addition to STI parts swapped onto the WRXes, there are Subaru SPT parts and a huge range of aftermarket bits made for those cars. sources for help, inspiration, guidance include 3-4 Forums like this one, youtube videos, local 'meets' and racing clubs (SCCA and maybe HPDE classes) 'tuner' shops in your area, etc. definitely locate the Missouri group over at NASIOC to see if there are any 'meets. near Jefferson City. drive over and look at some cars. 3142plateless by alckytxn, on Flickr
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definitely - if the timing system fails - you bend valves.
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you need to reliably confirm the timing belt and idlers were replaced 60K miles or so ago. If not, that is a ticking time bomb.
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makes close to zero sense to me, but what do I know? It may be true, I was trying to make a case for axles not having the inner and outer joints 'clocked' (timed) to each other correctly. And also that the wrong grease was being used on the inner joints. I guess when someone installs a 'problem solver' we'll know. (is that like a padeye wrench or 50 feet of flightline or a skyhook? LOL!)
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because of the cylinder 'pitch' and the use of a chain inplace of a belt, the EZ engines are only an inch or so longer than the EJs - but, that may still make them too long for a Brat, not sure. would require moving the ECU over and merging wire harnesses. Dunno what you do for a trans as US models were auto-only. Final drive ratios must match....lots to consider. you might dig around at NASIOC and at subaruoutback.org for anyone who has done something similar. Might be easier to sell the Brat as-is, use the funds to find a Baja with a blown motor.
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Teach me about OBD II Scanners before buying one
1 Lucky Texan replied to Loyale 2.7 Turbo's topic in Shop Talk
I like my Innova 3100- it's kinda old-school handheld but it also reads freezeframe data. another option lies along the lines of FreeSSM and/or Romraider with a laptop and special cable; read here; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/65-parts-accessories-performance/39426-freessm-complete-access-your-ecm-tcu.html -
yeah, you're right, most people get a P0325 I think. I'd still Inspect it for cracks and make sure it's bolt isn't loose. cheap sensor too. Most folks report the inexpensive Ebay units work fine. here's a video - some voltage drop measurements are possible - start around the 5 minute mark I think. Engine Temp Sensor sometimes won't set a code. But usually folks have easy cold start with bad running when warm or, hard cold start with good running while warm. gummy IACV might also cause poor running at, and just off,-idle. kinda depends on the actual symptoms you experience. If the problem is at a certain throttle setting regardless of gear/speed - could be an intermittent spot on the TPS.
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knock sensor IACV
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Sometimes in the past there were cautions about the paint fully 'curing' before using any product on it but, nowadays - I dunno
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similar issue; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/80-electrical-electronics/64938-05-outback-xt-battery-drain.html
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well there's your problem! lol!
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Aerospace 303 Protectant is another popular product. not 'shiny' though.
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is there a CD stuck in the radio? it can drain a battery stuck in an EJECT mode I think.
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probably need to tighten/replace a clamp or 2 on a hose feeding a fuel rail or possibly at some other connection. frequent complaint from soob owners in cold climates.
