1 Lucky Texan
-
Posts
10142 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
105
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
-
next time you feel certain this will happen, just press the gas pedal to the floor, and hold it there (that's 'clear flood' mode) while cranking. If it seems to start fairly well, you may have an injector leaking into a cyl. then, next morning, start pulling plugs to find which cyl is wet with fuel. engine temp sensor is another possibility, but remote I guess. -
^^^ good idea - might even find an English socket that would fit. Probably better to try that before any heating - a lot of heat will soften the head even more. 6 point socket would be best.
-
leakage from the back of the engine? that is often the separator plate. If the fluid is fresh, I suppose you could try some Trans-X additive. Some people have luck with that.
-
there are techniques and tools to deal with that but, if have minimal tools, try using a propane/MAPP torch to heat the bolts, then, file a coupla flats opposite each other and use some vice grips to try to get them out. If you have acetone and ATF - mix 50/50 and use like a penetrating fluid - or buy some PB Blaster or Kroil. I'm sure more experienced mechanics will chime in with some ideas.
-
ABS system is very sensitive to voltage - battery and charging system OK? triple check the batt terminals since you had it out.
-
when you tried to jump it, was there any clicking?
-
many possible causes including but not limited to; clogged exhaust (usually cat conv.), slipped timing belt, bad knock sensor, vacuum leak more details on the car and post the codes - Pep Boys or similar will usually scan for free.
-
seems to me, there's a likelihood of a corroded connection somewhere. Bad ground? When were the batt terminals last cleaned? Has there been a history of corrosion on top of previous batteries? that can grow into battery cables. (though, your cables seem too new to be bad - I suppose it's possible.) that 4 seconds feels like it could be due to current trying to punch thru some salts or corrosion. Checking some voltages/voltage drops during cranking might be a good idea,
-
could be a fuel supply issue I guess. That might explain the slow start - pump has to pressure-up the rails. I'd want to investigate possible exhaust blockage - a vacuum gauge test could help with that. Dropping the exhaust to look for a dropped valve guide might be on the list of things to check, but after other/easier/common stuff is eliminated.
-
post the codes, someone may spot something.
-
is the check engine light on?
-
I kinda regret buying my gauge set from Amazon - it did help me a little but, I'd have been better off just doing what is recommended in the Forum. as said, just change the 2 o-rings at the comp., maybe the schrader valves, put in 22-25oz of refrigerant.(or w'ever is recomm. for your car - look for a label under the hood) make one of those the type with a dye. then, drive. If you have problems, probably best to take to a pro. Tell him what you did and let him go from there. He can check for the dye, recover refrigerant, test pressures and otherwise diagnose the system.
-
covered under Impreza? no TRibeca mentioned either. just put in your Forester's VIN and see what happens.
-
yes to all of those. The top of the pin has a noticeable polished 'radius' area corresponding to the pin peened into the mount where it rests? easy to see, maybe it can be felt as well (if you'd like, I can try a coupla photos) It was also wet. not 'pooled' - but wet-looking. And when I wiped the area, the rag was reddish so, I assume it was hydraulic fluid? the toothed idler will spin for 9-12 seconds with a hard flick and sounds slightly rough to me (remember, I only have experience of ONE TB and related parts service) the heavy Koyo bearing at the top seemed perfect - I considered leaving it. It seems to be much more robust than the GMB replacement. I guess it's the one folks say is double? I think all the other parts are variously labeled NTN and NSK. my 'guess' is the a/c clutch is much more sudden. nothing else really can send a short-transition shock through the system. with turbo lag and idle let-down (like the old dashpots - remember those lol!) everything else is more 'analog'. again, it was cool this morning and I just did one manual cycle of the a/c . I hope to be more thorough on the drive home. honestly - I'm more glad I did this service now. dunno if the toothed idler or maybe the tensioner would have lasted another 8+ years to 105K miles.
-
is that the 'half moon' ? I think those use a sealant. subscribed to learn
-
remember this thread; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/136669-plug-swap-failed-to-fix-miss-on-my-wrx-looking-for-ideas/page-4?do=findComment&comment=1255785 i THINK the chk sound is gone. Kinda wondering if a weak TB tensioner could have been the source of the sound this whole time. Or that toothed idler. I spins for a long time and is a little noisy/crunchy sounding.
-
I've had this 'chk' sound everyday - just chalked it up to a normal a/c comp. loading sensation. OK, this is weird - and preliminary - but i THINK this is gone this morning. I did a timing belt service. Could a weak TB tensioner have been making this noise? maybe clicking or popping-up when the a/c compressor cycled? I also changed to a lightweight crank pulley but the stock pulley appears fine. I'll be able to do more testing on the ride home when it's warmer.
-
it's weird, there are 2 airbag recalls for our 2003. One for the 4 "high absolute humidity" climates, and another with no mention of locale. I put in our VIN at the website and it says our car is unaffected. But this issue is still very fluid and more cars may be recalled since it seems Takata has no info. allowing lot numbers to be traced.
-
That's great - if you think they are really doing a miserable job at a reduced price, consider showing up with some breakfast snacks when you pick-up the car, or Lotto scratchers for the tech and owner. I had a guy at an appliance store pass-up an easy way to get money from me and go out of his way to show me a free way to fix a dishwasher. Took him a coupla Lotto scratchers. It may not always work - but sometimes it gets you some consideration in the future if you have an emergency or need some xytra/special services
-
OK, it started and seemed to idle normally, no smoke, no unusual noises, no CEL. I only ran it briefly though as it needs coolant. Thanx so much for your guidance and support folks! Feels good to have ithe job behind me I admit, and I was certainly slow as molasses, but, I saved hundreds of dollars. oops - I gotta remember to plug in the fans!
- 49 replies
-
- 1
-
-
- turbo
- timing belt
- (and 3 more)
-
section of old TB and vicegrips did the trick. Probably a strap wrench would have as well. The L side seems half tooth off. Any change I could have made would make the set 1/2 tooth off the 'other way'. They seem 'tight' 1/2 tooth, but , as a SET, the cams are dead-on. In my mind, this seems better than if the ethey were 1/2 tooth too loose. This way, any weakness in the tensioner or slight belt stretching should let them 'wear' closer to the rear cover marks. Tooth count ( 54.5 on R side, 51 on L side) and belt markings were dead-on, even after rotating before and after pulling the tensioner pin. Actual torquing if the crank pulley went fine in 5th gear w/P brake on - but, when I reached for the pulley, I mistakenly installed THIS; Perrin - resized by alckytxn, on Flickr
-
every BA part I've gotten seems OK. I'm gonna try some Febest transverse links on my wife's Outback. I stupidly replaced the leaking OEM with Prothane and they are HARSH! (but, quicker-feeling take off and braking response)