1 Lucky Texan

the only diagram someone linked on another forum wasn't for this generation Forester. edit; yeah, look around this thread; http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/mirror-falls-off-126869/index2.html

make sure it isn't coming from a hole in the filler neck. Older cars would rust-out behind that plastic cover. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/89-oil-fuel-discussion/27718-fuel-leak-filler-neck.html

some scanners can get "freezeframe" data like my old Innova. There are cable-connected laptop options and even cheap ($15) bluetooth adapters for smartphones running Torque or similar apps. They are able to read more data than just codes. Or maybe AutoZone can - or rent you a scanner that can. Might not mean that info would be definitive, but it might give us some clues.

thanx - I was hoping there wasn't a lip on the front and the new belt could slide under it.

no direct vacuum control of the trans - it's electronic. I'd try doing 3 drain/fill/drive briefly/repeat cycles to get mostly fresh fluid in there(only about 40% will drain from the trans plug, the rest is in the torque converter) - maybe try a CRC Trans-X treatment on the last fill. It has helped a lot of older transmissions last years longer than they would otherwise. Yours just seems to have problems earlier that it should. Do you have any warning lights on/flashing?

can the belts be slid off/on under the craanl sprocket guard plate w'ever the thing is called in manual trans cars? Can I take it off and just 'eyeball' putting it back on? or use some toothpicks or a coupla feeler gauges when i cinch it down? they want -what-1mm of clearance right? could I use some pieces of 18ga. wire to space it up in 2-3 spots?

any work done to the car before this began? new tires or fluid changes? How old is the trans fluid? Have you checked the fluid level?

disconnect the MAF. That should force the ECU to run on a 'stock a:f map'. crank with the gas pedal on the floor - in case the engine is flooding. If no improvement, then the issue is 'deeper' than a simple a:f problem. Timing or spark, etc. as said, go back to basics including timing. Pull plugs to see if they are wet. measure fuel pressure. maybe crank while monitoring a vacuum gauge for stuck valves or major vacuum leak......

it would be nice to see the fuel trims. Kinda wondering about fuel pressure I guess. also - does the 06 have variable valve timing? maybe something is wrong there - though I'd expect there would be a DTC. maybe scan for any pending codes.

schedule for the T belt is 105,000 miles OR 105months, whichever comes first. So 210,000 is the next belt - unless the dealership can prove to you it was already done.

must have been a common problem, I found this; ***** NUMBER: 15-167-13R PART INFORMATION A new Service Kit has been released for this type of repair. Part Number H501SSA042 contains all the mounting hardware necessary to complete the vast majority of these repairs. The kit includes a newly designed cam plate, spring, and two mounting screws. Please note that Mirror Mount Adapter PN H501SSA041 (replaces H501SSA040) now includes this new service kit in the rare event that the Mount Adapter requires replacement or when initially installing an accessory mirror on the above listed vehicle applications. The new Service Kit H501SSA042 contents are pictured below. __________________ Steve ASE Master Tech Subaru Tech 98 Forester ******

Recently tried to re-work a loose rearview mirror on my MIL's Forrester. This thing had been hit or pulled-off before and a different family member tried to fix it. I THINK there is a plate stripped out in the mount adhered to the windshield. Looks like it could slide or pop out for replacement. Opposed forces may not have a diagram for this but I admit I just may not understand what top-tier heading it would be under. kinda like to have the part number for that plate and also the 2 screws that go into it. I suspect it is built to disengage easily in an impact. I managed to get it re-mounted with some aluminum foil wrapped around the screw's threads and some tread locker - but it felt like only one screw is 'biting' so - I want to be prepared to do it correctly. any help with links to diagrams/part numbers appreciated.

I doubt 5K has removed enough tread to matter. Might depend on the tire type. Some soft summer-only racing tires might be down 1/3 of their tread. Some hard touring tires might be barely worn. some people have bought used tires from ebay that match their other 3. Or have found a shop to shave some tread off.

because the knock sensor is supposed to signal the ECU to alter engine timing, many times the ECU cannot determine if it is receiving a true signal or not. Plenty of folks have had bad sensors with no code set. Visual inspection often shows the part to be cracked. There MAY be ohmmeter or oscilloscope tests that would help with diagnosis. But, many people just buy the $20 part and put it on. It's advised to note and duplicate the direction the cable points when removing the original and installing the new sensor so the new one isn't stressed. I THINK 17 ftlbs is correct torque - don't overtorque it either. OBDII DTCs are nice to have - but they rarely point directly to a bad PART. Better to think of them as indicating a 'system' that seems to be supplying the ECU wit data outside of the allowed tolerances. Sometimes the sensor is fine and rodents have chewed wires, or alternators are bad, or connectors come loose, or batteries are weak, etc.

I know dealers in some parts of the country are hungry for used soobs to have on the lot but, yeah, that one seems odd. maybe it belonged to an employee?

engine temp sensor is different than the coolant gauge sender.

At one time in the past, I had read a coupla posts about that. Dunno if it would be true anymore - maybe Subaru has already changed the part?

does it seem to fail after the engine has warmed up? Have you tried some ether-start when it fails? If it tries to run immediately, you know you have spark. anyway CPS is cheap-ish and easy to get to, I think I'd try it.

just looking around Google, good reviews for both MYTEE and Toledo Auto Repair you could call them and ask how much a pre-purchase inspection for that car would cost, and what major items would be included. (you expect they will look at fluids and tires, etc.) then decide if it's worth the hassle. better if someone from around there can recommend a shop.

ok - if you can, edit this thread to say; HELP - need mechanic near Toledo Ohio

auto corrected from ??? Tomato Ohio ???? where????

roll connector?

do you hear any relays clicking? I'm wondering if someone connected the green 'test' connectors under the dash?

take the other side off and install some Hella 500s. /thread