1 Lucky Texan

you did use the large OEM or OEM-style thermostat right? I'd say have the system pressure tested. It's a good thing that the reservoir didn't have all the fluid pushed into as happens mostly with bad headgaskets. I wouldn't discount the possibilty of some bad temp sensor feeding the ECU incorrect temp info. The fans are 2 speed but run operate at the same time I THINK on a 2003. but, kinda surprising you didn't find the source of a leak so......

no waterpump change for me, but I just bought a kit with a mitsuboshi belt and all GMB idlers and tensioner - I HOPE it's OK stuff. going in my WRX next month.

check prices at rockauto and even amazon . KYB are the most popular struts - that's what I put on our 03 Outback.

I initially dismissed the IACV because he said it idled OK - but it certainly could be gummy and intermittent. good post

no MAF, MAP on our cars I think. kinda wondering about a TPS problem but????

have a pre-purchase inspection done (start a new thread asking for a shop recommendation near you) and ask the mechanic to print/write out what needs immediate attention, what you can live with (drips, squeaks w'ever) and what you need to save-up for. he will also test for torque bind and 'may' be able to tell the condition of the timing components (at 207 - in theory, you will need the timing belt VERY soon if not immediately). You can use the list to maybe negotiate a better price. they are fairly well designed and tough cars, easy to work on - but a used car's reliability depends WAY more on previous care and current condition than 'brand reliability'.

yeah, just ignore it and check tire pressure regularly like 'the old days'.

I.....I have no words....

OK guys, I guess I was thinking they 'couldn't' maintain their positions or were on a hair trigger like a rat trap or something. Seems like a little care should be good enough. If one snaps out of position, just turn the 'shortest' distance to get it back? or 'must' they always turn clockwise (looking from the front - not the driver's position)

I get how the old belt, maybe clipped in place in a few spots, would prevent the left-side cams from rotating and colliding valves with each other, but I don't see how I would take the old belt off and put the new one on. Do I need to buy that tool that holds them?

also, after 7 days it could take an extra 3-4 seconds to get the rails pressured up for good injector spray. did the car get its timing belt change at 105K ? might be a weak tensioner letting the belt flop around or ????

I have read of people purposely bending, OR cutting part of and bending their dust shield to scoop more air towards their brakes.? Check into StopTech Street Performance pads too. Not crazy expensive, great cold bite, higher MOT than Hawk. Stoptech also has a cryo-treated slotted rotor I think?

as a rule - you shouldn't drive a car with a flashing CEL. That indicates severe misfiring and can damage the catalytic converter - perhaps heat things to the point of combustion?. If the car drove reasonably well (safe braking and turning, etc.), was not making loud knocking/clanking noises, and the CEL was not flashing - hard to imagine any serious damage. bev - perhaps in a new thread, ask for a recomendation for a new shop to service the car. There should be several places in CO that have good reputations. I dunno where your city is, but RetroRoo would be a great shop for you if you live nearby; 6300 E 88th Ave #4, Henderson, CO 80640 (720) 440-1662

Seems to me there is 'incomplete' combustion and a seafoam or similar treatment thru a vacuum line 'could' help. Might be a waste of time but.....? It would be nice to have some kinda borescope pics of the inside of that cylinder. could a dropped valve guide be an issue? might be able to spot after dropping the exhaust.

out of an abundance of caution, you could do a an oil change, maybe it's slightly diluted with fuel - but really, anything else (stress on the catalytic converter ?) is probably not worth worrying about - just drive the car and continue to monitor it for problems/changes. If you live in an area where your car may be subject to more invasions by rodents, there are a half dozen things you can try to limit that in the future. If they chewed on stuff once, they'll likely be back. put 'clumps' from a cat litter box under where you park, refresh occasionally. Buy fox urine or similar at a sporting goods store? Find a Zoo or hobbyist that keeps snakes, put a shed snake skin under where you park. Even cat hair from a brush, or from a dog/cat groomer's , might help discourage 'critters'.

I think cardoc or some other guru once said he could see xtra carbon inside EZ30 engines that didn't get premium fuel. ???

Oh yeah, I recall you or someone recommending the metal gasket for the water pump. One kit I saw includes a metal gasket. I'll remember that for the future. i think I'm gonna order this kit; http://www.ebay.com/itm/260928551524?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT If I DO see weeping, I'll have the seals ready to go. Dunno if I store them, if they'd still be OK to use 7-8 years from now though!

I was hoping one or 2 people would feel that way about the water pump. And I'm sensitive to the fact that skipping one or 2 items carries some risk - I may just plan on going only 7-8 years instead of 9 on this service (assuming similar use/mileage) I was looking at some pages from an FSM and there's an oil can shown dripping on the crank bolt. Oil OK or anti-seize? (some other parts appear to require toothpaste ? lol! something from a tube so - threadlocker or sealant ???) Also, would you guys change the tensioner? or just its pulley ? The main kit I'm focusing on has GMB brand pulleys - any experience with that brand?

I own one clicker torque wrench that goes up to 150lbs - and doesn't really work that well for really small values (like under 20 or 30 or so is- tricky) will I need an inch-pound wrench? I have an old beam style 3/8" drive that might work for smaller values.

thanx GG and 14D and somick !

The 'time' side of my maintenance schedule says my car needs a timing belt. The car has only 51,000 miles but is an 06 (delivered in October of 05). This would be my first Subaru timing belt and I think I'm gonna have some questions and probably need some moral support. (actually, the ONLY T-belt I've ever installed was on a 1978 Civic wagon ! - that was belt only too) first, it appears my car has an ej255 engine. I think I'd like to get parts from either theimportexperts or mizumoauto on ebay, however, the compatibility/'selection scheme' often says my car isn't compatible. Still, a coupla links that 'look' good are ; http://www.ebay.com/itm/371001013292?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT and http://www.ebay.com/itm/261044896184?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT#vi-ilComp look OK? Also, I'd rather not do any work/spend money that folks would consider unnecessary. Mostly because of risk due to my inexperience. I DON"T mind working on the car for 2-3 days or paying for good parts, so IF I change the waterpump (would you change it at 51K miles?), I'm gonna get an Aisin. I know nothing about the GMB parts listed in one of those links and am leaning toward the more expensive NTN w'ever parts. Many people seem to think I should change the water pump and the cam and crank seals (remember - 51,000 miles ) but, as for the seals, it seems there's some 'art'/skill involved, and maybe I'd need a special tool to remove them - maybe to seat them as well. Plus, I've never used the sealants you guys talk about, Ulta grey or anaerobic? Couple that with stories of cracking cam pulleys(there's 4 of them!) and needing to sand-down (?) some shaft surfaces - I kinda feel like it might be too risky for me to tackle the seals unless I see leaks? I'd like a link to the FSM for this job if someone knows it (2006 WRX Wagon) Does everyone pull the oil pump and re-seal the back of it? Can I just leave it alone? What size socket is needed for the crank pulley? (in case i need to get a 6-point for my impact) Will I need to use any of the following; sealants (what types?), anti-seize(where?) ,threadlocker (where?), grease or special lube (where?) For a first timer, would you recommend pulling the radiator? probably install new hoses if I do but ??? any parts easily damaged plastic or hardware that will likely need replacing along the way? (clips,screws, bolts, nuts) any suggestions for the major 'gotchas' to watch out for? any decent pics or videos around? I have hardware stores near enough, dealer is 17 miles away. I don't expect someone to respond to everything, but I will listen to any wisdom you guys want to pass along. naturally, I have to live with any compromises I make, just wondering what experienced mechs have to say. If waterpumps leak coolant instead of seizing their bearings, I might leave mine in for instance.

30 psi? didn't know that.

Sounds like he could be suspicious of deposits in the throttle body - worth cleaning it i suppose. If anyone has tried to adjust the idle or throttle settings, that could be a problem. There's a strict procedure for that.

I guess you'r confident you're using the manifold gauges correctly? I kinda wonder why the compressor would even cycle on at low pressure like that. and why not charge the system thru the gauge's center hose? I think I'd be tempted to get a vacuum pump from VatoZone or O'Spendys (they will 'loan' you one with a credit card charge/credt) and evac the system and see it it will hold a vacuum. maybe the refrigerant is leaking out quickly? or just take it to a pro. They can recover refrigerant and do testing. just tell him you'll handle swapping in a compressor. Lie if you want, "I'm geting it from a guy on the Subaru Forum, he owes me for some rims I sent him blah, blah, blah" then, finis the repair yourself. Also, you could try some refrigerant with dye in it - maybe you have a hole in the condenser or a bad hose?

you can try to argue the settlement up if you have good documentation of valuable upgrades or recent major parts added to the car but - I wouldn't expect much.