1 Lucky Texan

next time it doesn't start, whack the starter with a piece of wood. Not like swinging to clear the stands, maybe start with a 'bunt', then try for a single. If it starts, probably need to rebuild the solenoid - common repair. Might not make sense though if it doesn't push start....? There's a clutch switch that can go bad - not sure you'd get that buzzing though....? some outbacks and legacies in that year range have problems with their fuel pumps but, I think the Impreza chassis are different?

re-fresh the contacts/plunger in the starter?

clean the IAC valve?

sorry, Throttle Position Sensor

another item that can cause issues in an RPM 'range' would be the TPS. But don't most people have an engine 'cutting-out' symptom with TPS problems?

if, after warming up, you can have a helper hold the RPMs in the failing/rough range - try spraying something like Ether Start around the intake manifold - maybe the vacuum lines too. Just incase higher temps are causing a gasket or other intake parts to fail. in some older soobs, crank sensors would be intermittent/fail at higher temps. freezeframe or similar data might help pinpoint a system that is marginal too. Some OBD scanners can get that data. Other methods can get more data or even show live data.

what? 8 x 45 = 360

can you guys get/distribute NTN axles or CV joints for Subarus?

I may do that, but I also kept one of my old axles. I may get enthusiastic and rebuild that one to swap back in. EMPI was sold/bought BETWEEN my purchases and, evidently, there have been more problems now than previously. They may be called Empire now ?

the first EMPI I installed was fine, the second one vibrates. ymmv

soob bearings are variable as to exhibiting typical failure modes but, it's worth trying the 12-6 o'clock rocking test. I found a bad bearing on my WRX that way. Compare it to its mate. My bad rear bearing moved maybe only 2mm or less. The other side didn't move at all. maybe use an infrared thermometer to check temps in case one bearing is consistently 40-50 degrees hotter than it's mate.

it would def. suck in the winter but, you could bypass the core.

only a noise? no 'jerkiness'/vibration felt, right? Also, if you were to coast in neutral, would the sound change?

was the problem you have now present before the tire change? if the car was operated with a dissimilar tire on dry pavement, that could cause problems due to 'torque bind' and portions of the drivetrain could have suffered from too much stress build-up. Will the care idle through tight turns on dry paved surfaces without jerking or bucking? There should be a FWD fuse position inside the fuse box. You can insert a spare fuse of any amperage and see if the problem goes away. Other componenets to inspect would be u-joints, carrier bearing and axles I guess. (Subaru wants all 4 tires within 1/4" [7mm ?] CIRCUMFERENCE of each other)

see if there is any change if you swap tires front to back. Good opportunity to inspect the tires, brakes and other gear too. you do understand the tires must be the same size; as in, same brand/model/size and even wear-level within 2-3-4 or so 32nds/inch right? bad for the AWD system if not.

get some real soob units from car-part.com and rebuild them. Raxles.com just some more ideas.

the green connectors under the dash might cycle the valves. Won't tell you if they or their hoses are plugged, but you should be able to feel them vibrate. Or, as said, try running a day or 2 with the gas cap loose. If the car behaves the same, my suggestion is all wrong.

if it happens again, you may need to troubleshoot some trailer or other wiring.

yeah, I know about the pressure control valve and the tank's vent valve too. Just seems 1.5 seconds shouldn't be 'normal'. I could MAYBE see a little of that happening after a day or 2 temp cycling in a warm climate followed by a short trip to the gas station before the ECU cycles any valve, but, the whole system is designed to PREVENT a whoosh of vapors escaping to the atmosphere. Those vapors are 'supposed' to be adsorbed in the carbon canister. We're in the midst of fighting an issue with my MIL's Forester not taking fuel (or only taking it at EXTREMELY slow rates) so, I've tried to educate myself a little about the tank's evap and fueling systems. Lots of ways that stuff can fail. There's failed valves, gummed-up valves, saturated canisters, spider. mud or frozen condensation clogged tubing - it's crazy! But the vent valve 'should' prevent much pressure build-up, unless the canister or its drain 'system' is clogged with spiders or something. My MIL's Forester sits outside and can go several days without driving. And, when driven, is only driven very short distances. No permanent solution to the fueling problem after 2 visits to the dealer - just returned after visit 3. We'll see how it goes. I think PGH should closely examine the evap system back there at the tank. But I admit it's a longshot.

yeah, people 'lap' them on a piece of plate/float glass with silicon carbide. I think there are even pics around somewhere..... yeah, check; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/122588-diy-head-resurfacing-or-post-apocalyptic-machine-shop-techniques/?hl=%2Bglass+%2Bheads+%2Bsurface

It's my understanding, as fuel is used, external air would be brought through the carbon canister into the tank to prevent a vacuum. It seems slightly lower-than-atmo pressure would be more likely than higher?

do you guys pull the plugs to do all the rotating/alignment of the crank?

wow!, hope she feels better soon and has no lasting problems! hope the other driver is OK. (were they drunk?) any pics of the Forester available?

does it seem to be pressure, or a vacuum when you open the tank? (if a vacuum is developing, that might starve the engine for fuel - maybe???) Also, even though you will get a CEL for a p0440 or similar code, you could try driving with the gas cap loose. Maybe the charcoal canister or it's drain is clogged up. Or the purge control valve inst;nt cycling.

I bought my Strommung muffler for my WRX from boxer4racing but, there are plenty of options out there. Cheapest is a 'turn down' pipe. You can aslo find sound clips for just about every muffler made (Magnaflow, Bosal, etc.). make sure you are not listening to turbo soundclips - the unequal length headers causes a different rumble and stock NA cars will not sound like that.