1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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The previous generation Outbacks had a spoiler - maybe Subaru still has it listed for 05s ? or check aftermarket as mentioned here; http://legacygt.com/forums/showthread.php/new-rear-wing-05-legacy-gt-and-outback-wagon-54298.html For more ideas about bits for Legacys, you might look around at www.boxer4racing.com , they usually have a good selection of legacy stuff. -
an Outback or Legacy turbo model's hood might move over easily. Someone here may have details as to if any other front trim parts would need to come with it. otherwise I guess you're looking at some cutting.
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Best first mod is sticker tires. If you run stickier tires and drive in a 'spirited' manner, upgrade your brake pads. next is probably a High performance Driving Experience class (HPDE) or some autoX runs. (to get YOUR performance up) performance mods probably limited to reducing mass. Lighter wheels give you a good place to start as it is also a chance to personalize the car with a cosmetic mod. You might also consider a lightweight crank pulley. If 5spd, lightweight flywheel as well. Some people like the sound of intake mods but they may not add any HP. A less restrictive exhaust may add a pony or 2. But, 9-13 lbs less weight (there's a complex formula involving the weight of the car which determines this exactly) equals 1 hp so, remove anything you don't need. If you have buddies in town to help you and/or never leave town, leave the spare tire and tools for it at home. have someone bring the stuff to you, or take you to pick them up - or call for a flatbed tow. If you literally never have anyone in the car with you, take out the other seats. springs and anti-roll bars would help in the corners.
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I don't know what sizes they come in but, I was told, there is an upgraded gasket made with sinteredt metal (???) for my car. maybe someone else knows about those - anyone ?
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difference looks like this; Stant makes one like the right one now, I think NAPA offers one as well? Or, get it from a dealer - local or on-line.
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check for oil in the plug tubes. If the valve/cam cover gaskets leak oil in there, it creates a high voltage short.
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well, there is a slim chance of a couple things going wrong(circlip jamming or seal being cut) but, usually, it's just a matter of seating it back in so the 'circlip' on the end snaps into place. someone probably had the cup 180 degrees out from the stub axle. The have odd numbers of splines and a normal axle pin would SEVERELY jam going thru there!
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nothing specific from me, I'm just brainstorming. Um, would it throw the code if you clutched in and braked to slow the car? Or if you did some high revving when parked? That is, does it require engine braking to throw the code? To me, that would be more a mechanical/sensing/maybe wiring issue than 'charging circuit' but........? Intermittent signal dropout could be a general electrical fault - or bad connector or grounding I guess.
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yeah but, I kinda wonder if all that was translated from another language? still, everyone tries to push their product. I think you can find the same part and price on ebay, but it may only show-up using the Febest numbers; SAB-001R, and L or w'ever. Might save the taxes too?
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back to $20, just ordered a pair. gonna dump the poly bushings I installed - too harsh! need the rubber waffles and big washer though.
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maybe there's just enough weakness in the tensioner and stretch in the belt to momentarily cause enough 'jerk' to throw the cam sensor out of sync? Or a cam gear is loose/cracked? weird
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weird - subscribing to learn. sure the code isn't TPS? clean/replace crank sensor? low system voltage?
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that center Viscous Locking Limited Slip Differential's viscous unit in the 5spd is sealed and normally would be unaffected by the GL-5 in the rest of the trans/front diff part of the case. There may be more than one way it can fail, but from what I've read, the seal usually leaks and the special fluid inside starts mixing with the trans fluid. on the right (with all the plates inside); number 11 in this trans diagram;
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I think people DO get binding all the time eventually. But I have read more than once of them binding, or binding worse, after heating-up. Some speculation is, the seals fail and GL-5 begins infiltrating the silicone/w'ever fluid in the viscous unit. If it really is a gradual process, it make sense it may be worse at some temperature extreme I guess. hmmm, wonder if an oil analysis would find silicone in the GL-5 ?
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The only pads I've had trouble with were some cheap Wagner's I bought on clearance. they were terrifyingly poor and almost required 2 feet to stop the car. I pulled them when they were 1/3-1/2 worn out. don't recall which model pads. On very rare occasions, like 4-8 times a year, during an easy stop, the StopTech S.P. pads on my WRX will emit a short squeak. name brand or top-of-line store brand ceramics should do fine for you. I have Centric posiQuiets on our 03 Outback, will get them again. SO MANY threads about brakes here (do a search) and hardly anyone has really bad experiences. Often, even cheaper pads are just short-lived or noisy, or dusty. If you stay with Ceramic, Semi-metallic or , maybe, para-aramid - from a reputable source - I can't imagine any 'howling' or other big issues.
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If i recall, your car has a lot of miles on it right? you might consider an entire transmission from a wreck - might only have 1/4 the miles your present trans has on it.
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sorry, those terms mean the same thing for this discussion. GG has a experience with this stuff so, he can probably advise you better how to proceed. I just read about stuff.
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I think that torque procedure you mentioned is for spindles with cone bearings ???? I recall something similar when I replaced a bearing on the rear of a FWD Honda Civic MANY years ago. torque to X, back off, finger tight, cotter pin. - well, something like that lol!
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I have read of people experiencing jerky/TB-like symptoms from bad u-joints and maybe bad carrier bearings. But not from wheel bearings. I suppose it's possible. Even a stuck and dragging brake caliper might behave oddly. If, when the symptom does show-up, turning tight circles on flat dry pavement was quite a bit worse than driving straight - I'd say that would point to the center diff fairly conclusively. Also, I'd expect a wheel bearing that was binding due to heat might be a measurably warmer than it's mate (same with a dragging brake) so, when the problem next arises, perhaps compare temps side-to-side with an infrared thermometer. They are cheap. Take some measurements when the problem is NOT present as well as when it is - sorta log normal vs failure conditions. Have the driveline checked out. maybe someone else will have some ideas.
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yep - you can even take the tip off and fit a length of hose. just a small trickle of gas will do. probably use a BBQ lighter too - just blow out the flame; I dunno if WD-40 would work, maybe some other solvents like brake cleaner would? You could fit a vacuum gauge too - compare readings when the engine is running smooth vs sputtering.
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^^^ good idea, if you can catch it sputtering at idle, open the hood and spray some Ether Start or even some propane around the vacuum hoses and intake manifold. If it smooths out, you may be near a vacuum leak.
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on the NA cars there isn't a lot you can do. lighter rims might free-up some power for acceleration. lightweight crank pulley too.
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cheapest is probably a 'turn-down' - not as loud as you'd think but 'loud', might be worth trying.
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if you don't care about the speedo/odo - you could run taller tires too.
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2011 and 12 Forry will have a timing chain - not belt not sure when that happened on the Outback