1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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got it is the concern on the cat/O2 due to a P0420 code? if so, you might read here; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/49537-p0420-diagnosis.html -
cheap sports cars are often handed to 'kids' that may be abusing it. As said above, folks like me (an adult that tries to respect the car's mechanicals and doesn't side-step the clutch or try 3k rev clutch dumps to launch) are rare WRX owners. Not unique, just hard to locate. Shopping for ANY cheap sports car would require a LOT of extra diligence in determining who has been driving it and how it was treated and maintained. Maybe getting in good with some local mechanics/tuners would help you locate a car that at least has visited a capable technician once in a while. IMG_3120 by alckytxn, on Flickr
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what rooster said - best to do some research (which you are doing here, good first step) INSPECT everything, suspect all fluids, hoses and maintenance items, make a list of what needs help NOW (safety and reliability stuff) what you can live with (small fluid leaks, rattles, maybe a passenger window that won't roll down, w'ever) and the big items you need to save-up for. but each of us would have our own lists that would vary from each other. You could also take the car to a mechanic for an inspection and work from his list. Consider posting a new thread asking for a shop recommendation near you in FL.
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209K miles trans guys - can it be repaired? of course. I would just shop for a replacement used trans., Inspect fork, flywheel, clutch, change TOB w'ever when you install the new trans, fresh non-synth GL-5, drive for another 100-200K miles. done and done
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those tires are all the same brand/model/size right? very important on AWD cars. PCV valve clean or replacement might be a good idea. is that car 4 wheel disc? if so, adjust the rear parking brake star wheels. maybe replace the little shoes inside the rotor. fuel filter many cats get replaced when the real issue is an exhaust leak or some other issue throwing the a:f ratio off. But certainly a car as old as yours could have a bad anything. Just make sure. on plugs, plug wires and O2 sensors, NGK is preffered (rear O2 might be OK if generic, not front though) if you break into the cooling system, OEM style t'stat ONLY;
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you might find a compatible used tranny at a decent price - maybe with 1/3 the mileage of yours.
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P2006, 2007 and 2012 P2006 Intake Manifold Runner Stuck Closed Control Bank 1 P2007 Intake Manifold Runner Stuck Closed Control Bank 2 P2012 Intake Manifold Runner Control Bank 2 Circuit Low Car ran normally on the way home, I cleared the codes. Hoping they don't come back. This happened to me in 2012 and just sorta resolved itself. I don't think they are sticking due to being gummed-up. Odds seem long for both banks to stick simultaneously. I suspect this is an electrical 'glitch' and perhaps this battery is getting old? But it wasn't old in 2012 so......
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seems a little like transmission shaft bearing I wonder if the transmission's magnet on the drain plug would show excessive metal sludge? If you could record the sound, others here might be able to diagnose it. I wouldn't, but there are some very experienced guys here.
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you might look thru here; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/27878-4eat-tail-section-rebuild-without-removing-transmission.html
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binding in the MTs is usually reported as worse when the tranny is hot. You might consider checking the u-joints maybe I missed it but, do you heear the same sound at the same rate if you coast in neutral at idle? that is 'speed dependent' meaning speed of the CAR?
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dang, CEL came on this morning on the WRX. boost is killed. Probably means the tumble generator valve code I had a coupla years ago is back. I'll scan the codes when I get home. thinking about paying a shop to install a TGV delete, and probably have them install the block-off plates for my non-functioning air cut valves while they have it apart. ugh
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My house is oddly offset from my neighbor's across the street - due mostly to the floorplan being mirror-imaged I guess and the garage on the north instead of the south. I have had to dodge their trucks, campers and son's landscape trailer many times. BUT, the previous owners over there TWICE backed into a daughter's car. I have since builr a flower bed at that corner of the driveway to discourage folks from parking there. If you still have the noise after the alt, look in the power steering tank for bubbles while idling. PS might be sucking in air - though it sounds like you have found the problem.
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the car will run for a short time on battery power so, pull the acc belts and run it. If the whine is still there - likely IS inside the timing cover. If not, look to parts turned by the removed belt.
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any chance the rubber line on the new caliper is twisted or kinked?
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read of these symptoms a few times, seems the manual trans will show torque bind after being warmed-up. the tread may look good - but the tires MUST be the same make/model/size
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if your State won't sticker the car with the light on/codes stored - it could cost you many hundreds to a thousand or more dollars to make the car legal. if you're OK with that, why even test drive the car? just buy it.
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any other work done at the same time? maybe some ground connections were refreshed?
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all cars were required to be OBDII in '96 , but many were in 95. I think a Nissan was in 94?
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the schedule for the belt is 105,000 miles, or 105 months. If you bought it used, you may never have known if the belt was changed. You didn't mention the mileage when you acquired it, but even based on the 105 month schedule alone, timing belt is one good suspect.
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how many miles on the car and how long since the timing belt was changed?
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does the accessory belt and the acc pulleys turn while cranking the engine? have you considered having the car towed to a shop? might be a flywheel problem. (is the car a manual trans ?)
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I think it may be a good idea to check the timing belt.
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possible cap/o-ring problem in the tank. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/139928-2003-h6-30l-sudden-engine-stop-no-start-fuel-delivery/?hl=%26quot%3Bfuel+pump%26quot%3B+o-ring&do=findComment&comment=1177730
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does seem a little like 'limp' mode. many people have good luck with 3 drain/fill cycles and use of Trans-X additive, at least, in some older transmissions it has been known to help. the level must be checked while idling.
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Does the XV or the Forester have enough clearance? they are both 'Impreza' chassis. I drove a Honda for 19 years, no bashing from me - Have you considered getting a different opinion from another mechanic on your Honda? Anyway, consider a used Forester - 2012 I think is the first year with a timing chain instead of a belt.