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1 Lucky Texan

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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan

  1. you might find a compatible used tranny at a decent price - maybe with 1/3 the mileage of yours.
  2. P2006, 2007 and 2012 P2006 Intake Manifold Runner Stuck Closed Control Bank 1 P2007 Intake Manifold Runner Stuck Closed Control Bank 2 P2012 Intake Manifold Runner Control Bank 2 Circuit Low Car ran normally on the way home, I cleared the codes. Hoping they don't come back. This happened to me in 2012 and just sorta resolved itself. I don't think they are sticking due to being gummed-up. Odds seem long for both banks to stick simultaneously. I suspect this is an electrical 'glitch' and perhaps this battery is getting old? But it wasn't old in 2012 so......
  3. seems a little like transmission shaft bearing I wonder if the transmission's magnet on the drain plug would show excessive metal sludge? If you could record the sound, others here might be able to diagnose it. I wouldn't, but there are some very experienced guys here.
  4. you might look thru here; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/27878-4eat-tail-section-rebuild-without-removing-transmission.html
  5. binding in the MTs is usually reported as worse when the tranny is hot. You might consider checking the u-joints maybe I missed it but, do you heear the same sound at the same rate if you coast in neutral at idle? that is 'speed dependent' meaning speed of the CAR?
  6. dang, CEL came on this morning on the WRX. boost is killed. Probably means the tumble generator valve code I had a coupla years ago is back. I'll scan the codes when I get home. thinking about paying a shop to install a TGV delete, and probably have them install the block-off plates for my non-functioning air cut valves while they have it apart. ugh
  7. My house is oddly offset from my neighbor's across the street - due mostly to the floorplan being mirror-imaged I guess and the garage on the north instead of the south. I have had to dodge their trucks, campers and son's landscape trailer many times. BUT, the previous owners over there TWICE backed into a daughter's car. I have since builr a flower bed at that corner of the driveway to discourage folks from parking there. If you still have the noise after the alt, look in the power steering tank for bubbles while idling. PS might be sucking in air - though it sounds like you have found the problem.
  8. the car will run for a short time on battery power so, pull the acc belts and run it. If the whine is still there - likely IS inside the timing cover. If not, look to parts turned by the removed belt.
  9. read of these symptoms a few times, seems the manual trans will show torque bind after being warmed-up. the tread may look good - but the tires MUST be the same make/model/size
  10. if your State won't sticker the car with the light on/codes stored - it could cost you many hundreds to a thousand or more dollars to make the car legal. if you're OK with that, why even test drive the car? just buy it.
  11. any other work done at the same time? maybe some ground connections were refreshed?
  12. all cars were required to be OBDII in '96 , but many were in 95. I think a Nissan was in 94?
  13. the schedule for the belt is 105,000 miles, or 105 months. If you bought it used, you may never have known if the belt was changed. You didn't mention the mileage when you acquired it, but even based on the 105 month schedule alone, timing belt is one good suspect.
  14. how many miles on the car and how long since the timing belt was changed?
  15. does the accessory belt and the acc pulleys turn while cranking the engine? have you considered having the car towed to a shop? might be a flywheel problem. (is the car a manual trans ?)
  16. possible cap/o-ring problem in the tank. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/139928-2003-h6-30l-sudden-engine-stop-no-start-fuel-delivery/?hl=%26quot%3Bfuel+pump%26quot%3B+o-ring&do=findComment&comment=1177730
  17. does seem a little like 'limp' mode. many people have good luck with 3 drain/fill cycles and use of Trans-X additive, at least, in some older transmissions it has been known to help. the level must be checked while idling.
  18. Does the XV or the Forester have enough clearance? they are both 'Impreza' chassis. I drove a Honda for 19 years, no bashing from me - Have you considered getting a different opinion from another mechanic on your Honda? Anyway, consider a used Forester - 2012 I think is the first year with a timing chain instead of a belt.
  19. I have read discussions about this before - DO NOT try to use an "engine oil" filter. It's internal construction is definitely unique. There may be a proper aftermarket unit, but I don't know. safest bet is dealer sourced. DOH! beat while typing.
  20. maybe record the sound and post a link to the recording - some of the really experienced guys here might be able to ID the sound.
  21. some of the engines have piston slap which is annoying but, just from what I read, doesn't have long-term damage associated. Loose timing belts can make a noise knocking/rubbing the inside of the timing cover sometimes. but yeah, rod knock is different.....
  22. In the past, people have also found trans fluid in the front diff ! - so, you might start by getting ALL the fluids change-out and at the proper level, in case someone didn't know what they were doing with fluid fills. I'm sure you also know to check the trans fluid while idling? Strongly recommend cleaning or replacing the PCV valve too. Compression and leak down testing would be a critical way to determine primary health of the engine. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/27372-harmonic-balancer/?hl=+crank++pulley++separating&do=findComment&comment=222711 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87408-crankpulley-grinding-timeing-cover/?hl=+crank++pulley++separating&do=findComment&comment=734640 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/101045-crank-pulley-came-loose-mangled-keywaybut/page-2?hl=+crank++pulley++separating&do=findComment&comment=1106091
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