1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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I have read discussions about this before - DO NOT try to use an "engine oil" filter. It's internal construction is definitely unique. There may be a proper aftermarket unit, but I don't know. safest bet is dealer sourced. DOH! beat while typing. -
My first Impreza, after more than 40 subarus
1 Lucky Texan replied to MilesFox's topic in Members Rides
get a hip spoiler ! -
maybe record the sound and post a link to the recording - some of the really experienced guys here might be able to ID the sound.
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some of the engines have piston slap which is annoying but, just from what I read, doesn't have long-term damage associated. Loose timing belts can make a noise knocking/rubbing the inside of the timing cover sometimes. but yeah, rod knock is different.....
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In the past, people have also found trans fluid in the front diff ! - so, you might start by getting ALL the fluids change-out and at the proper level, in case someone didn't know what they were doing with fluid fills. I'm sure you also know to check the trans fluid while idling? Strongly recommend cleaning or replacing the PCV valve too. Compression and leak down testing would be a critical way to determine primary health of the engine. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/27372-harmonic-balancer/?hl=+crank++pulley++separating&do=findComment&comment=222711 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87408-crankpulley-grinding-timeing-cover/?hl=+crank++pulley++separating&do=findComment&comment=734640 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/101045-crank-pulley-came-loose-mangled-keywaybut/page-2?hl=+crank++pulley++separating&do=findComment&comment=1106091
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you could try swapping tires front to back but that bushing looks close to being done for.
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dipsticks can be tricky, best to pull, wipe, wait 2 minutes, check, look on both sides, mentally calculate the 'average', maybe repeat. separator plate might be the source of the oil. search trans 'might' respond well to 3 drain/fills and a bottle of Trans-X crank pulley might be separating, or loose - both are known issues. Don't dump the engine without checking it out better.
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carbon deposits can lead to knocking. maybe the seafoam treatment will help? good luck
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yeah, most of the simple definitions for the various DTCs that mention a car part or system, don't really mean "replace that part" - they just point to some sensor reading that is out of allowable range. P0420 can have many sources and it rarely is a bad cat conv. exhaust leaks,vacuum leaks, even bad wiring from rodent infestations, etc. always best to start with tune-up and inspection type stuff. I have an older Innova 3100 handheld scanner, but if you have a smartphone, or a laptop, there are devices/cables and programs that are very affordable - free.
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I'm thinking there is an A:F problem (O2 as fairtax mentioned or ???) and it would be great to see the fuel trims. Maybe KS is involved as well, maybe not. might not hurt to try some vacuum gauge testing too.
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this might be similar to your model, - but not sure on non-US models; http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_39/suspension_and_axle/front_axle/illustration_1/
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many possibilities I'd gues but, check the transverse link (rear bushing for the front lower control arm)
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more details on the vehicle would help some folks have found 3 drain/fill/drive/repeat cycles and some Trans-X to be helpful.
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I guess the Castrol had been labeled HypoyC in the past - but I am no expert on this. There probably isn't an expert - just a lot of anecdotal data.
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I have experimented a little, but haven't tried that combo. The only thing I know about 5spds is, in 06 they went with a different synchronizer for 1st gear. (cone or 'double cone' ?) of the 3 fills I've tried, I'd say the best was 100% Redline Lightweight Shockproof.(Smurf Blood lol!) there's no end to what you 'could' try and plenty of people find Extra-S or name brand non-synth GL-5 works fine for them. seems like some folks are always tinkering with something on their cars, I might be a little guilty of that.
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http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=920674
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I never paid much attention as to when the flashing stops, i assumed it was when I hit the unlock button on the fob. but, it definitely flashes when activated. 3 rapid flashes seems to be valet mode according to;http://www.cars101.com/subaru/keyless.html#alpine
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seems like you may have a fluid in there that will work for you, this is the combo being suggested in a huge thread over at NASIOC;
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security system could be in valet mode or ???
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manual trans seem to exhibit TB worse after being heated during a long run so, I'd say that's likely what the problem was.
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typically, torque bind would be least noticeable in traveling straight, most noticeable in tight maneuvering. get on level dry pavement (not gravel or dirt), crank the wheel hard left or right, do some slow circles. maybe try some slow figure 8s too. Jerkiness, maybe eventually needing to give more gas to move the car, point to torque bind. Is this an auto or 5spd? remind us what car you have.
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ns was formulated specifically to help get the syncrhos moving; http://www.redlineoil.com/product.aspx?product=58304
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your symptoms don't theoretically support this, but you might inspect the fuel pump's cap and o-ring. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/139928-2003-h6-30l-sudden-engine-stop-no-start-fuel-delivery/?hl=+fuel++pump++o-ring++cracked http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/129528-fuel-pump-leaky-o-ring-other/?hl=+fuel +pump +o-ring +cracked you might run a bottle of Techron, or maybe SeaFoam through a coupla tanks. cars that sit unused are also at risk for spiders to clog-up carbon canister drain hoses.
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drain it into a clean container and use the top 90% for rear diffs.
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you may indeed have multiple problems - subarus have had issue with clutch 'judder' in the past - even TSBs on that issue. try a non-synth GL-5 fluid. easier than disassembling something. but, fluids will certainly not repair broken metal. it's just that, the soob manual trannies are odd, you need a fluid that plays well with a differential AND a transmission. synthetic oils don't let the synchros spin enough.
