1 Lucky Texan

many newer cars have variable cam timing (and/or variable valve LIFT) so, what you noticed is likely a 'real' effect. but, there could have been trade-offs longterm if left one tooth off; perhaps worse fuel mileage, more likely to burn a valve, slightly worse emissions, less-smoth idle as you witnessed or ??? cars are a pile of compromises and I'd guess cam shaft timing (and other aspects like profile and lift) is on that list.

Is there a diagram or video of this wrench bolted to bell housing trick? also, maybe one of these drawings will show the shaft's circlip;http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b13/type_18/automatic_transmission/

maybe ask them to swap sides when they do the work. You might get lucky and the noises stop with the previous 'reverse worn' surfaces now getting the forward stress.

not sure about a lot of this, you might look up a diagram at opposedforces.com the rear struts are weaker than the fronts - I could push-pull all of the new ones I bought. I'd expect junkyard units to be easy to move without a spring connected. you may need to disconnect the anti roll bar link if you haven't, and, although the design is different, I had to use a scissor jack to push the rear arm down to get some stuff to line up on my 03.

the diagrams at opposedforces.com are unclear. On some models, there may be a removable "liqud tank" as it is called in the parts list. ebay offers parts that look like this; http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-AC-A-C-Accumulator-Receiver-Drier-Air-Conditioning-Filter-Dryer-/261152026959?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Make%3ASubaru&hash=item3ccddfb14f&vxp=mtr weird

even with the light, it's a little tricky but, it works. best to clean everything first if possible. swing by the diy car wash and do an engine clean. your plan is similar to what I did, wish I had swapped the schrader valve guts, but so far, it's holding. been looking for quality metal, or0ring sealed port caps. i think that would be a good back-up for questionable valves. no luck so far. you can rent/borrow vacuum pumps from some parts stores, maybe if you let it run overnight it could pull out some moisture??? just a guess.

the logic on which fans turn and/or how fast if they are 2-speed, is complex but I THINK if the car is warmed up AND the a/c is on - both should be running. someone else might have a better answer.

Look in the reservoir while the car is idling, maybe have someone turn the wheel back and forth. Look for foam/bubbles. There should be NO bubbles (ok, maybe one or 2 every 20-30 seconds just from the high pressure flow moving fluid around. BUT, whining is often due to air getting into the suction side of the system. The hose or adapter on top of the pump. Sometimes an o-ring is needed, sometimes a new hose or clamp. you don't want to see this;

If the car is new to you, you should confirm that the thermostat is a working OEM-style unit. Take yours. make sure it's closed, put it in hot water on the stove, monitor the temps with a thermometer, confirm it opens before 180 degsF or so. OR, if you are gonna install a new one, test it too before you install it.

confirm that the rad fans are working. read here;http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/43428-diy-c-air-conditioning-leak-refrigerant-repair-5-less-15-minutes-less.html

can you move the wire, plug and injector to a different cylinder? how about a leakdown test?

look for split CVJ boots - might give you some leverage for negotiation.

my MIL's 2011 Forester has done this twice. Being handled by a nephew but, supposedly, the dealer is charging $300 for 'some' new part. hopefully, I will be told what the repair order says. Her car has very low miles and sits unused a LOT.

Does your owner's manual mention using the fuse when you install a skinny spare or different sized tire? Has your car had a tranny swap done ? I have no idea why it would be there. The 5spd manual tranny has a completely mechanical/fluid-coupled viscous locking center diff. with zero electronic control.

known issue I think with the light in the rear. (but i thought it was brake lights and brake pedal circuit?) Start with that? try a search for the issue too

usually, the complaint is the other way. could your car have had some drivetrain components swapped in the past? Are you tires over inflated. most people find modern soobs to indicate fast by 2.5% or so. Subaru was even involved in class action suit and had to extend some warranties because the odometer indicated higher-than-actual mileage.

many electrical control systems are 'normally closed' (that way, an open wire or connector will trigger an inspection/repair) so, it may be that you're right, IF that is the only sensor controlling the system. But, there's an overcharge sensor too i THINK. And, there could be a relay that's bad-or a fuse. Fuses can be confusing on visual exam - ohm it out. And try a new relay - swap with another if you have 2 that are the same.

John, go back and review that thread. Gloyale is reminding people that a 5spd has no FWD fuse under the hood. Nothing to do with handling a failure of the center diff. Just some confusion by 2-3 respondents as to which transmission was being discussed.

as long as the failure mode of the center diff is always 'locked' (like a welded diff) then it will work as he described. The stub will still turn, but being free from any load, there will be no binding. if the center diff failed OPEN, then ONLY the disconnected stub would turn and no power would get to the front wheels.

in my opinion, put gen2 or gen3 H6 Outback at the top of your list.

Is the MAF still in the intake? that is, does all the intake air still pass thru the MAF? it must, and, as said above, that airflow needs to be steady/laminar or otherwise appropriate for the MAF to do it's job. if you disconnect the MAF, the car will likely go into 'limp' mode. the stock intake IS 'cold air' so, just put it back stock if you continue to have issues.

well, may be time for compression and leakdown tests. maybe valves are burned, or just on the edge of being too tight and they float enough when warm at higher rpms to leak?

Try holding the gas pedal to the floor when starting. That signals the ECU to go into 'clear flood' mode and it will shut off the injectors. maybe the car is flooding. Some people experience this when moving a cold car 20 feet, shutting it off to get out and close a gate or retrieve mail, then, they get back in and the car won't start. Too much fuel from being cold, then, the fuel washes down the cylinders reducing compression AND, since the car is still cold, MORE fuel is dumped in. You could pull a plug when it fails to see if it is wet with fuel. possible intermittent crank position sensor too I'd guess. this is sometimes bugs/spiders getting into the evap parts on infrequently used cars.(Mazda has had more than one recall due to Yellow Sac Spiders doing this) My mother in law is having her second issue of this (2011 Forester). There is a drain valve or maybe a hose associated with the charcoal canister that can cause this. could of course be a bad solenoid or rodent-chewed wires or.... Is the check engine light on? even if not, scanning for pending codes could be a good idea.

make certain the wires are snapped onto the plugs. read often of this being an issue. check the boots for oil, some soobs leak oil in the plug tubes and short the high voltage, , perhaps try swapping injectors front to rear.

you could just leave it as is. Then, you can start parking up close to the grocery store entrance like a normal person instead of at the remotest portion of the parking lot with no other cars around.