1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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that wouldn't be a common failure mode for soobs, but not impossible I guess. is it pushing coolant into the overflow or other odd problems? it's more likely to be a dropped valve guide or valve problem. You could try holding a strip of paper at the tailpipe while cranking. If it tries to suck in, probably a valve problem. dropping the exhaust might let you see a dropped guide - not sure on that engine. And, a vacuum gauge might also pulse oddly if a valve were stuck/broken. -
used engine (car-part.com) or, you could let these guys (in Flower Mound) take a look; http://www.awdtuning.com/services/general/
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I'm in no position to do anything but speculate. I'd be concerned that it may have lower impedance and could stress coils. I'd have some concerns that it could interfere with 'swirl patterns' or other combustion chamber fluid dynamics. I'd be concerned it may be more prone to collecting carbon deposits. But, if a manufacturer says they've tested and approved it for use - it wouldn't frighten me away, just comes down to price/longevity i guess.
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Minimize Shipping Cost at RockAuto.com!
1 Lucky Texan replied to RockAuto's topic in Products for your Subaru
yeah, while I don't exclusively shop there, I never fail to check the site for what I need. Never had a problem that wasn't stupidity on my part, and coworkers I've recommended to RA have had perfect experiences. -
good post - for testing purposes, could that heater circuit be bypassed with a direct hose loop? If everything was good, then heater core would be the culprit right?
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I wonder if there could be an electrical/voltage problem and the car isn't overheating at all? maybe the gauge or it's sender is incorrect. or, the system needs to be 'burped'.
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you're a little over due for the TB (105 k miles OR 105 MONTHS). maybe it's slipping on the water pump. how many miles on the car? is the thermostat OEM-style or aftermarket?
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were all those parts replaced trying to solve the problem? or was some of that work done just before the problem came along? was the radiator cap(s) replaced? is coolant being pushed into the overflow bottle? was the timing belt changed?
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If they aren't changed, and beginn seeping/leaking, does it just folow the block down the front or does it get on the TB and screw things up? what about the front crank seal?
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You have a logical point. On a car, the 'true' return ('earth' or 'ground') IS the neg. battery terminal. The car's frame, engine and body are just a conductor. maybe mechanics are just accustomed to removing the neg. term. so often that it becomes their standard starting point?
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this thread is good - and frightening. my situation on my 06 wrx is, I 'should' be doing the TB probably next fall or the spring after that, based on the 105 MONTHS part of the schedule (picked my car in Oct. of 05) - but the car is just now at 50K MILES. would you guys replace the cam seals? the car will be under 60K miles when I do the TB work. I wasn't planning on cheaping-out with anything else, including putting in a new water pump (Aisin) but, I don't know if cam seals are a weak spot, or if I need to pull the oil pump and re-seal/tighten the back like I read about on older soobs.
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I have a concern that the new rad may be leaking into the trans cooling coil. Or that coil is blocked? is that possible? which has more pressure at idle, the cooling system or the trans pump? just bad luck I guess since you only saw ATF but, check the radiator anyway.
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well, I may be wrong but, I assumed he was told to disconnect the negative lead of the battery(the terminal) with the engine off so, the only power left in any system would be minor. certainly, one needs to be careful around a car battery.
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in theory, it just shorts any residual charge (caps in the radio? in the ECU?) to the car's chassis. I might prefer to step on the brake pedal or, as mentioned, wait for a few minutes - but it might not be all that bad.
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just throwing out some pssibilities; Engine Temp Sensor (on newer cars, it's combined with the temp gauge sensor nowadays.) depending on how it fails, it might never 'choke' a cold engine. Might be worth pulling the fuel pump assembly to look for a cracked metal cap and displaced o-ring problem.
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possibly a stuck brake caliper.
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Recommended SOB mechanic in NJ? I suspect there are plenty....oh...wait...you meant SOOB.
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triple check that you timed the crank sprocket using the vertical 'dash' on the tab behind and NOT the arrow/triangle on the front.
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so, the adjusters were just pumped-up too far? I would never have thought of that. at least, no teardown required. today I learned something
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yeah, most likely valve cover gaskets including the spark plug tubes.
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well, many people have had bad wheel bearings that were replaced and the noise is solved. But, we are just talking on the internet. An experienced mechanic or accomplished DIYer that could actually drive and inspect the car is in a MUCH better position to listen to the noise, feel or measure temp differences of the hub, inspect the brakes, rock the wheel up and down, feel the spring for 'crunchiness' when turning the wheel and other diagnostic procedures. we can only offer educated guesses.
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you're certain the crank is at the TB installation mark and NOT TDC?
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some tires will change sound as they age, but the concern is, you may have a bad wheel bearing. Subarus are notorious in having atypical symptoms at times and your best move would be to have an experienced mechanic inspect the car. There may be no immediate danger, but if this is a bad bearing and were ignored for 'many' miles, you could have uneven tire wear and/or unsafe handling and braking. Consider a new thread asking for a shop recommendation in newton. someone may know a good mechanic near you.
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look for oil in the spark plug tubes?
