1 Lucky Texan

dunno how much shipping would be, but I have a set of springs off my 06 wrx wagon. less than 1900 miles on them. I'd like to get $40 if that doesn't seem unreasonable. know anyone headed your direction from DFW?

broken front axle? PLEASE tell us the model, year and mileage of the vehicle. also, any wrecks or work done recently, general condition of the vehicle, etc.

it'll probably get slushy but, should still work I guess. Things can sometime be crazy in the field so - try to find time for a 'dry run' in the lab with the new fluid.

what about the stuff they use in water systems in RVs ? or; http://www.orisonmarketing.com/IceclearAF.html In the past, i used an environmental test chamber that use liquid CO2. You have to find the cylinders with the siphon tube. maybe a gas company could make up a smaller cylinder for you. Still, there's gonna be handling/usage problems. are alcohols too flammable? -100 C or colder I think.

get the PCV valve and hoses changed/cleaned too. High crankcase pressures will exacerbate oil leaks. After that, it may be better to keep topping the fluids off while digging for more serious issues. If the engine has to come apart, or be replaced, no point in putting new valve cover gaskets on now. Compression/leakdown tests may be a good next move. Also, shopping for an engine from the junkyards.

just changed intake air filter, oil and filter, and new trans oil in the WRX. cleaned batt terminals and checked fluids. Inspected brake pad thickness, Think I'll put a new set on all-around in October. Need to change the cabin filter and have Discount Tires rotate and balance the wheels. should be good for the summer after this! also, need to do some of the above on the Outback.

weight savings probably figure more in stop&go (but, slight - like leaving a pre-teen/small adult ??? out of the car) , I agree, very slight/no help on the highway.

yeah, with the fuse in, all the same parts turn and they have the same mass. hard to see where any fuel savings would come from. This comes up a lot and it's bogus unless parts are removed from the car - then you gain from weight savings, not FWD.

have you checked the fluid? Keep the engine idling on level ground, shift to each individual gear for 10-15 seconds, then to Park. Keep idling, pull the dipstick and wipe it. wait 2 minutes. seriously, wait. Check the level.

isn't there a large hose from the IACV to under the intake? it might be loose. From what I've read, easy to leave off after engine work.

and swap crank angle sensor if the above doesn't work.

with the metal one, does it get a sealant on each side?

www.boxer4racing.com has some go fast bits for legacy-based cars. I bought a strommung muffler from them in the past but never messed with coil-overs.

danny, I have to mention since I don't recall it in the thread - you DO have 4 tires all the same size on the car right? Same brand, model , etc,? an odd size mixed in can cause TB.

40 is right on the edge I think. Driving at highway speeds, I think it's a beast when I put my foot down. But outta the hole and anywhere up to 45/50, not so great. maybe no worse though than a typical 6 cylinder. Some of the other 'utes' have a lot of torque available, perhaps built with more of an eye towards towing? - I dunno. If the one you drove has been running with regular octane fuel, that's at least a part of the problem. ours is a very nice 'medium cruiser'. It has it's quirks with wind noise and downshifting at very high speeds - otherwise, no complaints.

yeah, drain and fill only gets about half the total fluid. drain/fill/drive repeat 2-3, times gets 80-90% new fluid. you 'could' try a different brand of fluid and/or a CRC or Lucas additive. definitely go thru GG's list especially number 13. I'd wait if possible til GG replies to this thread though. he has a lot of experience. I only read about the stuff he and other gurus do.

OK, fluids probably not an issue then. um - you are checking fluid level with the engine idling right?

or maybe the product is old? I could find ADvance Auto parts labeled bottles of ATF for several formulations, including Dex/Merc (DEXRON II and III) but AutoCraft seemed to just be on some AAP batteries??? anyway, dannybito just needs to confirm it's Dexron 'compatible' was all I was thinking.

well, I don't know. maybe not. Just asking because there are a few types. Does the bottle claim it's DEXRON II or III ? anyway, grossgary might know.

regularly get 20 as a grocery-getter, never got better than 26 on road trips. using high octane fuel.

just to add to the questions above, exactly what brand/type fluid did you put in?

My MIL's 2010 Forester just had this happen. The dealership charged her $110 or so so to clean some valve. I assume the fill valve but, I dunno where it is or how it's accessed. her car gets extremely low use (7k miles!) and sits for long periods of time.

just to check, you looked while the car was idling? some people have had the u- joint (double cardan joint or w'ever) get stiff in the steering column. I think you may be at a point now where you need a good mechanic to test drive the car. Maybe ask in a new thread if anyone can recomm. a good shop near Great Falls.

did you drive tight circles on pavement? have you looked inside the PS reservoir for bubbles while idling?

I can tell you several people, including myself, have had air in the PS system of our H6es.