1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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meh - it's usually recommended. probably more important when topping-off than just 'checking'. I am usually suspicious of 'mechanic in a can' solutions, but CRC TransX or some other additive would definitely be worth trying.- 22 replies
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- check engine
- vacuum leak
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just to triple check - you are checking the trans fluid level while iding? on level ground and after moving the selector thru each gear for 5-10 seconds?
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posting mostly to subscribe/learn but, any sign of rodent damage? wondering about chewed wires.
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supposedly, the keyway isn't that important for the pulley. Folks sometimes use incorrectly low torque I think when re-assembling after TB job.
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don't rely just on my guess. The parts are known to delaminate, but the symptoms you have may be rare. i think the pulley just starts throwing belts off. Another 'out there' possibility is a loose crank bolt and worn keyway. hopefully, a close inspection will discover the problem. i suppose it could be felt - dunno. It really isn't a harmonic balancer. But, if the alternator is being intermittently driven, and the belts are intermittently slipping, I'd expect some weirdness 'could' be felt under acceleration sure.
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it's a 2-piece affair. inner connected to outer by a layer of rubber. Probably wobbles if it's bad.
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weird maybe the rubber is failing in the crank pulley?
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if you open the coolant system, confirm the t'stat is OEM-style only
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diagnostic use only - leave them unplugged.
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with used cars, the care they got in the past and their present condition are way more important than the model's reliability. That said, the H6s have a a few easily remedied niggling problems but are considered very desirable. Consider paying a good mechanic for a prepurchase inspection.
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^^^ rear diff protector too.
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some autoX guys and other 'racers' will corner balance their cars so, that tells me, cars are not corner balanced from the factory anyway. The spring under the heavy corner might be a little more worn out. throw in worn bushings and shocks - well, you'd go crazy worrying about everything that MIGHT be wrong.
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changing the tire diameter away from stock will affect the odometer (and speedometer)n by a few percent. The math for mileage will be affected. For instance, larger tires means you've gone farther, and gotten better mileage, than the odometer indicates. But, it may be possible to get good calculations using GPS readings. a bad Engine Temp Sensor may not create a failure code/check engine light but cause the car to run 'rich'. The ECU also stores the Fuel Trims. If those can be retrieved with a scan, it may offer some clues at to whether the ECU is reacting to a failing sensor by pumping in more fuel. Remove as much weight from the car as possible. Do not carry tools or any other gear you don't need.
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hmmm...that tranny have the same final drive as WRX rear diff? interesting. LOTS of good reading at NASIOC if you have the time. good place to shop for parts/take-offs too.
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maybe a leaky injector? next time it has sat long enough that you feel it will fail, pull the plugs to see if one is wet. Or, before a full start, cycle the key to ON, wait 6 seconds, then Off, then ON, wait 6 seconds - repeat. This should cause the pump to cycle on a few times, pressurizing the FI rails each time. THEN start the car. If normal, you're losing pressure in the rails. If the same or WORSE, probably an injector flooding a cylinder. HOLDING the pedal on the floor is the clear flood procedure. If that helps the car start, probably a leaky injector or other flooding problem (maybe Engine Temp Sensor)
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hmmm...normally, I'd suggest folks pretend to shop for another one to compare to their own new car. But, how could you do this at night? I suppose they could all be dimmer than you'd prefer. But, suppose yours really has a poor ground or bad control module for the the instrument lighting? maybe you could find some kind soul with another new Forester in your neighborhood that would let you take a quick look inside their car some night?
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in some soobs, the ABS is very sensitive to voltage. check your charging system and battery.
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a REAL GM guy would know about this boxer;
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yeah - might also depend on whether 1 or both fans are running, plus, keep in mind where the rad's intake and output hoses are. If it's working well in not too hot conditions, we might expect only part of the radiator's surface to be warm. The portion nearest to the inlet.
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hmmmm....I once read of a waterpump that had much of its impeller blades corroded off - maybe by a previous owner running straight water? couldn't pump enough. is the car actually overheating? fans working?
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inspect the tires too. - longshot heat shields? - they usually 'buzz' though driveline seems most likely
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others will have experience - I've read that it is tricky to get good results from measuring different areas of our radiators. was an OEM-style thermostat used? the small, typical aftermarkets can cause problems. Also, pulling the top hose off and filling the block directly with coolant, then reconnecting and filling the radiator helps remove trapped air.
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check the timing. you might pull the plugs after it sits overnight and see if one is wet - maybe an injector is leaking?
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If there is foam/many bubbles then that MUST be addressed. (OK, to be clear, it IS possible to see pehaps one or 2 bubbles every few seconds cause by flow/turbulence from returning fluid) car must be idling. Wheel 'may' need to be turned by a helper while watching the fluid. There may be a whining sound, or, like my WRX, there may only be jerky-feeling steering wheel feedback or other symptom. There are few places air can get sucked in; the o-ring/o-rings (depending on the model of Outback) on top of the pump. The hose, failure of the clamps on the hose, a crack in the reservoir, a crack in the fitting that goes on top of the pump and maybe some problem inside the pump. I suppose the 'seat' for the o-ring could be scratched if someone wasn't careful removing the old o-ring. I used a toothpick to prevent gouging the area where the o-ring must seal. That's it. The rest of the system is under pressure and will leak fluid OUT, not suck air IN. I use the HNBR o-rings. They are kinda green/turqoise colored. Something else might be whining. The car will run briefly without accessory belt(s) - that might help locate a problem with A/C or alternator pulley bearings or tensioner bearings etc.