1 Lucky Texan

so, when it isn't starting normally, how do you finally get it to start?

well, I'm betting the book has an "i" for inspect at the 30K service point - but either way, yeah, they are now in the tank with the pump. not sure whicch models/years first went into the tank;

build 2 or 3, sell the xtras and yours will be free!

make sure the brake caliper isn't dragging.

knock sensors are cheap. Is yours cracked? anyway, if you replace it, it can be important to orient the part so the cable dresses away at the same position as stock. Some people have put them on and the casting pushes on the bottom where the cable comes out and cracks it again.

maybe I'm not following but, are you complaining about vibration when stopped in gear, that goes away when you shift to N or P ? that is often poorly rebuilt (or worn ?) front axles. a 96 almost certainly does not have its original axles.

any progress?

seems dicey. Some soobs, older models mostly, do have a reputation for piston slap noise. But what you're describing seems worse. if the engine was ever overheated, you may be buying a ticking time bomb that will throw a rod. But, a loose TB tensioer will also sometimes let the belt flop around, that can sound like a knock. You could pull the timing covers and look for an abraded spot where the belt has been whacking the cover I guess.

do you guys try to keep a chisel in the split? also, will this work on a soob;

be careful; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enxj-2rPJLQ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ou7_tiKTGAY

OBDII would definitely be on an emissions sticker under the hood or somewhere in the engine bay. similar to this - maybe someone else will know a better clue.

spray it with Kroil or PB Blaster, starting 2 weeks ago.

? which one do you want? Is this truck going to be 4WD? if not, no contest off-road, Subaru wins. but, if the 'stuff' you carry is huge or dirty, the truck wins. If you really only haul dirt or giant stuff once or twice a year, the fuel savings will pay for a rental vehicle - or borrow a buddy' truck and buy him some beers w'ever.

yeah, I was kinda wondering if, in the past, someone had put the wrong part on - perhaps from a junkyard?

what car? newer ones have HBAs and are a little friendlier for DIYers. (at least, the HBA I did on a Chevy was easy) even if press-in, some folks buy/borrow/rent hub tamers w'ever. Myself, I'd probably pay a shop to press it in.

most likely - bearing less likely - front diff other possibilities - brakes, axles

you might look around at www.cars101.com - but foreign models could have some differences.

got it. You might consider slotted only but, as fast as you will go thru brake components, you'd likely change rotors before any cracks showed up around drilled holes anyway. someone at NASIOC might have experience with the ebay parts. I'm not running a car like you are but I've had good advice from the guys at http://www.knsbrakes.com/c/home

clear the codes and see which come immediately back. Possible bad grounds connections or loose harness connector ? after cranking, pull the plugs and see if one is wet. Also, try cranking with the pedal on the floor. That is the 'clear flood' mode for a FI car. When you checked the timing, the arrow/triangle was about 3 o'clock position right?

number 19, for the fronts, has to go the correct way; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/attachments/do-yourself-illustrated-guides/58882d1384312695-front-strut-replacement-2000-outback-struts.jpg

the open end goes on the bottom so the spring end fits up against that 'pocket'. also, on my outback anyway, there is an orientation to the top hat. There should be an arrow or other marking that is supposed to point 'outside' after assembly. That is, it points toward the curbside of the fender - 90degrees from the fore-aft axis of the car. And the washer on top has an orientation. The domed or bevel side goes against the inner race of the mount's bearing. just pay close attention to how things come apart. and be careful.

I admit to being fairly ignorant of Foresters. One thing to consider is if the car has a cabin filter and how dirty it might be. But, honestly, hard to know how that might affect vent selection unless some debris is blocking a 'blend door' or something.

whether it has ethanol in it or not, run the higher octane rating fuel in the H6. Lower octane will lead to a little knock, that will cause the ECU to retard the timing. Some say, the car also gets more/faster carbon buidlup in the cylinders with regular gas. You could try the mid-grade in winter and run the hi-octane in summer. I run high octane year round.

If they came on the car, don't have uneven pad deposits, aren't cracked from the drilled holes or at the minmum thickness - just run them. But, as said above, a daily driver does not get any benefit from them. In fact, modern pad materials even for racing do not outgas as badly as in the past so, even some track cars wouldn't need them. Of course, if you're gonna track the car regularly, you would need to use w'ever combo rotor and pad works best for you. If you plan to refresh all 4 corners, get Centric premium rotors and try Centric PosiQuiet Ceramic pads - good value. If you track occasionally - or zoom around in a spirited manner all the time, upgrade the pads to Stoptech Street Performance. On a car that old, you should consider all new rubber lines too. maybe 4 in the back (?) and 2 up front? not sure. That old rubber probably balloons a lot and fresh lines won't - more solid brake pedal feel. Fluid flush might be a good idea too.

^^^^ good post. I wouldn't discounta dragging brake caliper or even a pebble stuck between the rotor and dust shield