1 Lucky Texan

Seems like you had someoen else work on the axle? maybe they bought the wrong part or ???? take it back and demonstaret the problem to them. Even if a boot splits, you can usually drive for weeks/months before there is a serious problem.

another way to proceed would be to post a new thread asking for a shop suggestion near Worthington. maybe someone knows of a soob experienced independent mechanic that could offer a second opinion.

Unless the tranny has had meticulous care and/or recent fresh fluid put in, I'd be tempted to try 3 drain/fill/drive/repeat cycles - and maybe some Lucas or CRC trans-max type additives before spending $$$$$. maybe the valve is just gummed-up

After a coupla responses, it seems there isn't much mechanical that could suffer from lack of lube so, my question now is, could worn contacts cause some 'dragging' of the starter just in cold weather? My 06 WRX is low miles and probably averages only 22 starts a week. maybe less. many weeks it is driven to-from work only 5 days with no weekend use.

timing belt should've been done ~4-5 years ago (time side of schedule, not mileage) Personally, I might call around and price a combined headgasket and timing belt job and just figure that into the cost of the car. maybe post a new thread asking for shop recommendations in Fremont - arrange a pre-purchase inspection. You might get lucky and a good soob tech may be able to spot multi-layer steel gaskets and new-ish timing belt/parts on the car.

The starter in my 06 WRX drags in cold weather. I'm hoping it'll be tolerable this winter but... Are there lube points on the inside and what kind of lube would I use? Could I use permatex ceramic brake grease? (I have lifetime supply lol!)

maybe a dexcool/glycol mix-up?

thanx, will check it out soon.

dang - forgot - 06 , it might be the same as the WRX sedan. I have read that some years can use the STi bar but fasten endlinks to the inside ????

Making up a Xmas gift list and I was considering adding a rear antisway bar and endlinks to the list. or maybe ask for a gift certificate to help pay for one. Just wondering who makes WRX wagon-spec rear bars? Is Whiteline the only choice?

Man I dunno, try scanning for 'pending' codes. I know you said vacuum was good, but a vacuum gauge can sometimes help pin down a problem. maybe do a compression check. many people here have trouble with spark plug wires that are not OEM/NGK.

a coupla points, 6 cylinder (horizontal 'boxer' config.) is only gonna be coupled to an automatic tranny. 4 cyl 2.5 boxer is available with auto or 5 spd. what is the weight/power ratio in your Jeep? as an example for the Outback; 2007 3.0 H6 makes 243hp, weighs 3610 - 14.8 lbs/hp 2007 2.5 H4 makes 175hp weighs ~ 3400 - 19.4 lbs/hp I'd avoid the H4 if it's much higher than your Jeeps ratio. If it's close, then thorough test driving would definitely be helpful just to determine if the 'feel' of it will be acceptable. Just differences in how/when the torque peak comes in and how a car handles turns and braking can make a big difference even if their power/weight ratios are similar.

try HOLDING the gas pedal to the floor and cranking. maybe it's flooded. (modern ECUs know to shut down injectors if starting with the gas floored) look around for fuel leak?

swing-away carrier would work with the hatches on the wagons. Otherwise, a sedan might be better for you. I dunno, are there carriers that stick out enough for hatches to open? timing belts have been quite the norm for decades for many car brands/models and, if the service was done 'correctly', they don't present a problem. The issue come when buying a used car as to whether a belt only was slapped on the car, or if all the appropriate ancillary gear was attended to. If you plan to regularly cruise with a load and passengers, you might lean towards a 6 cylinder model. Hvae you found a local shop with some Subaru experience that can provide a pre-purchase inspection?

possibly some parts from a wrecking yard were swapped in on one side?

rockauto is good. I seriously just ordered some wiper blades and got them in less than 24 hours!!!

hard to think of anything....some Legacies and Outbacks have a flat 6 cyl. engine that uses a timing chain instead of a belt as used in all 4 cyl. engines prior to - uh, - about 2012 or so. There is no service interval listed for the chain and failures have so far been very rare. Although it actually is a well-planted car, some folks feel the Forester exhibits too much body roll when cornering. really, they are just different body styles and you just need to drive them. Oh yeah, if you tow anything you need to check the tow specs. probably find those also at www.cars101.com

I may have it wrong but, isn't the joint retained due to the bolt engaging the concave groove around the joint body?

first, you seem generally happy with your Jeep. $10,000 would go a long way to keeping it in reliable condition I'd think. With used cars, the individual vehicle's past care and present condition are vastly more important than it's brand/model or predicted reliability when new. In short, an abused 6 year old Honda could be a worse purchase than a pampered 6 year old Fiat. Perhaps ask for Subaru mechanics in Cincinnati in a new thread. 2 reasons. One, sometimes they will have a car or 2 posted for sale by a customer in their waiting room. Second, have a prospective purchase looked at before buying. A pre-purchase inspection may cost an hour or two's labor, but it could save you from buying a car with torque bind or low compression in a cylinder or ??? As for recalls, all cars have them. You would be wise to have the VIN checked by a dealer for ANY brand of used car to see if safety recalls were done.

If you think you will be on dirt/mud/gravel roads, you may need more ground clearance than a stock legacy or Impreza will offer. So, you should limit your shopping to Outback, Forester or 'Outback Sport'. The last 2 are based on 'impreza' chassis. The Outback as most people think of it, is legacy chassis-based. You can do a little research at www.cars101.com

If you are making all good/new hose connections, you might just save the $2-$4 w'ever and skip it. here's more info about it; http://www.scoobyenthusiast.com/subaru-maintenance/all-about-subaru-cooling-system-conditioner-soa635071

You might consider it if you think the old hose connections and other parts are prone to a leak. But the HGs seem to have no reputation for weeping on that engine. meh, I might just wait till something was dripping somewhere.

have read several times of newer models 'hooting' when overcharged.

our 03 automatic had a little whine from new. Changing the front diff to synthetic cut the whine by about 1/2.

you're gonna replace both HGs anyway right? but, if you want to try to pin-down which side is leaking, you could try jacking the car up first left-side, then right and see if there's a difference in the amount of coolant dripping out.