1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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looks like Summit Point Raceway in WV is less than 2 hours away. They have some event coming up Aug. 17-18 I think. You could drive over and check it out. If you're lucky, someone might haul you around the track. you might try to contact someone in your region about autoX events in SCCA; http://www.scca.com/site_search_results.cfm?q=maryland -
good point Uberoo. There were a couple of 'torque monsters' on that track int he pic I posted that day. A Corvette for instance. That track is also used by owners of Vipers, GTRs, Lambos and other exotic supercars. But, the guy that owns the HPDE school also happens to hold the track record - in a 138HP MIata. If you just want a cheap drag racer, get a Mustang. But you can learn to actually DRIVE in lots of cars, just do some mods to help them corner flat and not overheat the brakes, get sticky tires, learn how to enter, apex, and exit the corners properly set-up for the next turn - SMOOTHLY.
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Mishimoto (and I think someone else?) makes a 'racing' t'stat that is cooler. but I'm not convinced you'd nee it in your application. But you definitely don't want a cooler, aftermaket that ISN"T built with the larger wax capsule, if the t'stat housing was submerged, it might slam shut. hmmm, have you considered some kind of wrap or insulation on the t'stat housing and lower radiator hose? Might help stabilize temps.
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well, the following is listed under the -072 (78*C) for USA; '99, December — '04, February WAGON 3000CC EMPI DOHC NA FULLTIME 4WD Automatic transmission OUTBACK FLAT6 Normal suspension '99, December — '04, February WAGON 3000CC EMPI DOHC NA FULLTIME 4WD Automatic transmission OUTBACK FLAT6 L.L.BEAN Normal suspension '03, February — '04, February WAGON 3000CC EMPI DOHC NA FULLTIME 4WD Automatic transmission OUTBACK FLAT6-S Normal suspension Also, MAYBE the 21210aa030 is also an assembly number? Do you have confirmation it's a higher temp unit?
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dunno if these links will work, I've had trouble with that before at opposedforces but, here goes; -072 (78*C usage) - http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/21200AA072/ (removed - thanx avk) -030 (84*C) - http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/21210AA030/ -080 (82*C) - http://opposedforces.com/parts/info/21210AA080/
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be sure to use OEM-style thermostat. The small aftermarkets have too small wax capsule are are too high-temp.
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Maybe someone could suggest a shop near you in PA that could help determine what work must be done now, what you need to save up for in the future, and what you could live with. Is there evidence now of coolant in the crankcase? perhaps sending a sample off for oil analysis is a good idea. Is there combustion gasses in the coolant? That's not good either. BUT, if you are just weeping/dripping oil and coolant externally, that might be manageable. Top-off the oil every tankful or every second tankful of gas - as needed, try the Subaru 'conditioner' in the coolant to slow down the weeping. get the valve cover gaskets changed to stop the misfiring. that 'might' be all that's needed. you just need good diagnosis.
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You might consider joining the local SCCA or some other group that runs autocross events. Maybe start by picking up a Honda or a Miata, run autox occasionally. Use that car for school. All the while, keep an eye on anyone driving soobs. When you have money, you might find a fellow SCCA memebr you know runs a nice car and he wants to sell his and upgrade. By then, you'd have driving skills to match that STI. stay safe and keep the shiny side up!
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^^^ I have no idea what I did wrong, hit quote instead of edit it looks like. sorry
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Make darn certain though, before damning the muffler. I don't read about too many problems with it. Heat shields or hangers or some other issue would be much more likely.
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You're not gonna like the answer but, to my knowledge, the entire muffler would need to be replaced. And, Subaru wants a fortune for it. Probably, most folks would just go aftermarket and live with w'ever effect it had on mileage/performance. probably not large, but, in theory, that bypass alloys for better comb. chamber scavenging at low rpms and better flow at high rpms. Junkyard might be an option.
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don't forget the insurance. My 06 WRX Wagon is plenty quick for me. Unless you go to the track regularly, you are 'legally' limited on your speed - but there's not really a limit to how flat you can turn corners! You can do suspension, steering and brake upgrades to any car and make it more fun. Cosmetic mods will help personalize it.
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yeah, upgrade the pair from crutchfield - probably the best way to go.
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those mufflers do have an odd bypass flap in them so, I suppose that could cause a rattle.
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well, you need to get the misfiring under control. No good will come from driving a car regularly misfiring. Tough on some parts including the cat converter. As for leaking, LOTS of cars are driven with leaks and, while less than ideal, if you keep it topped off, and maybe clean the oil off occasionally, that isn't a big deal.
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Uh, what you found is most likely due to leaking VALVE COVER and spark plug tube gaskets. not saying you might not also have leaking head gaskets....just, it's common for older soobs to have oil in the plug tubes.
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Dunno about just the quadrant but, junkyard part, ebay part might be a less expensive option. I THINK both Bosch and Airtex makes replacement parts, not certain though.
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As I got older, driving my A/C-less 1981 Civic wagon began taking a toll on me in extreme heat. I'd have a headache and sometimes feel nauseated by the time I got home on +100 days. Run the A/C. make sure the system is working well, get a hose and blow dead bees and debris out from the condenser and between it and the radiator. Maybe pull some trim/glove box parts off and vacuum out the intake side of the expansion coil.
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You might scan for 'pending' codes after the next time it happens. Wondering if a bad spot on the TPS could do this too. I THINK you have a larger 'cap' on your fuel pump with a sort-of strainer/filter in side. While 2000-2003 legacy and Outback models have had problems in that area with a small cap and o-ring being compromised (and shutting cars down completely), the issue has never been reported in 04 . Maybe the Forester Forum would know for certain. You can get the cap and filter on-line, dunno about just the filter. Frankly, I think you have other things to check before the fuel pump but, I suppose I mentioned the above because it's a remote possibility.
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OK yeah, then what bratman said. Youtube videos and other info online for pulling headlights apart.
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Mequiars, 3M, other kits available to polish them out. Check Amazon for ratings of kits, check Youtube for demos. most folks who bake them for removal, are doing mods/dress-up stuff like; HID projector installs, 'angel eyes', painting the chrome, etc.
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even wiggling the wires, harness and grounds while someone observes the gauge for changes might point to a problem area.
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You need to confirm that the thermostat used was OEM-style. do you lose coolant or is the overflow bottle getting filled up?
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This can sometimes be due to old, cracked plug wires or coil. On a dry day, when you feel it would easily start, try misting the plug wires with water from a plant sprayer. If it fails to start - get some new wires (NGK or from the dealer - subies need specific resistance plugs and wires and it's best to stay with stock equip if possible) some people do this test while idling at night and can spot blue arcing from the high voltage!