1 Lucky Texan

in addition to the above, triple check PCV and breather hose routing. I read one post where it ended up a guy heard gurgling in the dipstick tube and it was caused by hose misrouting!

TB schedule is 105K miles OR 105 months, whichever is first. Unless there is incontrovertible proof that the TB was done with high quality parts by an experienced mechanic, better to get a car that needs the service so YOU have control of the quality of the service and a warranty if you hire it done. search for 'torque bind' . that would be another expensive mistake to make and the problem can be (but isn't commonly) hidden on automatic transmission cars. best to have a pre-purchase inspection done. the years you're looking for don't typically have dangerously weak headgaskets like models from the late 90s. BUT, ANY older car can suffer from poor ownership or be hiding a present problem, regardless of brand. maybe someone from WV can suggest a shop for you to have an inspection done.

^^^ and saving recycling energy or keeping stuff out of the landfill!

I have a minor squeak too and was wondering how folks lube the clutch pedal way up there and what they use. so, this pin can be removed with no fear of flying springs?

most likely there is a line on one of the 'tabs' that swing by the crank sensor, that mark should go at 12 0colck. that puts the pistons at their halfway point. DO NOT use any arrow/triangle on the front of the sprocket.

step the plugs back up and see what happens.

input shaft bearing?

It sounds like you still have the CPS failure code? yes, you need to confirm timing. If the CPS disagrees with the cam position sensor, the ECU won't start the car.

good posts, I have a tiny addition. when refilling, don't assume the distance between L and F is a quart, it's more like a pint so, sneak up on the F line 1/2 pint at at time and wait between checks with the dipstick. It's tricky getting a good reading. http://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-TF-1-Heavy-Transmission-Funnel/dp/B000EH2SPO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1368498085&sr=8-2&keywords=hopkins+funnel that's what I use, you might want to pour slowly (especially for front diff lube) but, it works well.

the second time was - tolerable - but, I'm in no hurry to do it again.

I wouldn't discount the possibility of putting that hole in the glass. The best drills for larger holes will be diamond cylinders (nickel plated preferred) and it's gonna be best to create a donut shaped dam around the position, fill with some thing like kerosene for a lube/coolant (water with a drop of dish soap would work) and drill with a drill press. You are actually grinding. get some similar glass from a junkyard and test/ practice 3-4 times before committing to the actual rear window. You MIGHT be able to do this with a copper cylinder, slotted a few times around the edge, and coarse silicon carbide grit. It will take longer, but will work. making your bit true and centered might be tricky. I certainly wouldn't attempt it unless i knew I could get a replacement rear window.

maybe the Engine Temp Sensor (not gauge sender) is keeping the ECU in 'choke' mode.

this would be me lol!

you can make your legacy more fun to throw around the corners, but it isn't going to win many drag races with the limited performance increase intake or exhaust will bring. MAYBE some cams would help, but $$$$ and maybe less reliability? It will help a little if you can get lighter-weight wheels and remove any other un-needed mass.

boxer4racing.com used to keep some gofast bits for legacy, some are $$$$ but you might look over there.

is the check engine light on?

some legacies and outbacks have a problem with a cap and swollen o-ring on the fuel pump. um, what year and model car do you have? what is its history, mileage and general condition?

temporarily parallel wire/'jumper' the fuel pump to 12V, then try to start. Might tell you if it is a wiring issue in the switch.

maybe get some tie down straps, the ones that ratchet, and try to pull the engine into position. Just be careful what you tie them to.

I know I keep suggesting this, but I can never recall the details but, a 96 may be old enough to have the aluminum wear 'area' in the clutch-pack system that was redesigned with a steel sleeve in later years. OK, pre-98s. There's a teflon seal that leaks past a worn almunum case area that was changed to steel in 98-99 or so. could be part of the problem, dunno, http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/6243-fwd-fusevibration/?hl=%2B4eat+%2Baluminum+%2Bwear&do=findComment&comment=52371 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/6432-starting-to-hate-this-cartranny-help/?do=findComment&comment=53865 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/53178-torque-bind-problem-fixed/?hl=%2B4eat+%2Baluminum+%2Bwear&do=findComment&comment=428900 http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/62044-best-years-for-ej22-legacy-wagons/?do=findComment&comment=557409

but could an engine be 'inspected' for bad rod bearing with just the pan off? I think, similar to ivan's idea, an oil analysis could diagnose a bad bearing too.

maybe a vacuum gauge would tell you if there's a massive vacuum leak or ? dunno how it would keep running though....

KYB are the go-to for shocks/struts. got mine (03 H6 OBW) from rockauto.com

3 lbs. ?

make sure all the tires are the same model and wear-level. Make sure there's no fuse in the FWD position in the fuse box under the hood on the driver's side. Then, take it for some tight circles on dry pavement to check for torque bind. should be able to idle through tight circles and figure 8s without bucking or banging.