1 Lucky Texan

look for a spot inside the TB cover that is 'rubbed' from the loose belt.

Used to get TripTiks and used their services a few times decades ago, but, they were not able to help my family once in northern new mexico when we were having illness and car trouble, plus, we had 'issues' with a AAA rated motel in Colorado once. Anecdotal i know but, with the advent of mapquest - then navigation and other personal electronics, plus getting towing added to your insurance, just not sure AAA is worth it. Many of the services they used to offer, are easily duplicated with tripadvisor, google, yelp, and other free services on the intertubes. ymmv

pretty sure this is gonna end up being a VW problem. just sayin'

most insurance policies have a towing option. If that's the main issue, and you aren't interested in other AAA services, you could just get towing. i always research dealership locations along my route in case I need help. I actually prepare and keep in the car a coupla pocket folders, one with 'emergency' info - hospitals, dealerships, contact numbers etc. , and one with attractions, restaurants, maps, etc. I often use tripadvisor or yelp w'ever to find places to eat, things to do, places to stay. Don't always use everything I've researched (only had to use a medical clinic once) but, you can only take so much Cracker Barrel.

after it does start, is there a momentary condition that seems like it was OVER fueled/flooded? You might try starting with the accelerator floored (clear flood procedure) Is the fuel pump able to supply good volume? after it starts, will it rev and run well across all rpms? I dunno where the cps is on my H6 but, some folks have found metal particles built up on the cps in H4s, clean them and the car runs better.

If you were running R compound or ultra/max perf. tires, a brake upgrade might be noticeable. But with 'normal' road tires, just go with something like Centric PosiQuiet Ceramic. long-lasting, inexpensive, less dust than StopTech with almost the same bite performance (probably not at high-temps in racing though. StopTechs have higher MOT than hawk - but they duuuuust!) consider a rear anti-sway bar. Rides good going straight on smooth roads, but turns in flatter/quicker. How old are the struts? some new KYBs might make the car feel a lot more planted/less floaty. Intake will get you more 'sport sound'. you might look over at boxer4racing for some ideas.

hi GD, missing your posts

did it have 3 wires? that sensor does both jobs, ECU and gauge info. at opposedforces it seems 22630AA161 is the part, that is the 3-wire unit. maybe someone with more experience can confirm.

those symptoms seem like typical a/c fan failure. But i think the H6 also has some kind of 'speed' sensor failure and I'm not sure what the symptoms are or even which years had that.

even a bad ground might have different behavior with temp/moisture. Start refreshing every ground connection you can find and confirm the battery cables are not corroded inside the insulation.

weird, even a stuck thermostat would be unlikely to cause heating like that. Almost seems like combustion gasses are gathering around the sensor or some weird voltage problem. Maybe put the old sensor back in to confirm there's really a difference in the way they behave - maybe you got a new one that is the wrong part or is bad? 2002 is old enough to have bad wires or coil. They sometimes cause some of your symptoms and especially in damp or 'cold/dew-y' conditions. You can spray the wires/coil with a mister bottle when it's idling to see if idle get worse. (if done at night, you can sometimes see and hear arcing)

why not build one with normal soob layout? Engine in front? shorten the driveshaft, put fuel cell and move battery in the back. I dunno

even if you match his engine power:weight ratio, you have more driveline losses to consider.

Hondas are LIGHT, you may need to shed some weight. You don't NEED that rear and passenger seat do you? hah! and try to get him on a twisty track. He'll plow the corners if you're lucky.

IB"Waittilitrains"

Well, keep in mind we are throwing out 'educated guesses'. The 'mechanical housing' of the sensor likely has 3 wires because its electrical 'guts' contains 2 thermocouples or similar type devices. So, it could still be bad I'd guess. Someone else here may know how to use an ohm or voltmeter to test it. I think I can safely recommend a shop that may be only 40 miles or so away; http://retroroo.com/why-retroroo-subaru-service-repair-denver-colorado/ if you end up needing a pro

you could run portal boxes to reverse direction, but $$$$$$$$$$$$

I think the Aussies build plenty of soob powered rear-engine sandrails, dunno how cheaply it could be done but, I'd think spending a little to keep as much soob stuff that bolts up easily would be better than getting crazy with a lot of mismatched stuff.

You do have rear disc brakes right? If so, the parking brake drum adjustment access should look very similar to the pics in this post; http://www.iwsti.com/forums/2660325-post7.html there was a faint arrow embossed on our OBW's dust shield and I'm pretty sure UP tightens the shoes and down loosens them on both sides, yeah, one side seems to have a left-hand threaded component. I used a medium sized flat blade screwdriver to flip the wheel. and, info for the brake handle adjustment - but it's usually OK ;http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/parking-brake-aka-e-brake-2779.html?t=2779

Mine don't squeak. maybe they will in the future? I think they'd be good for motorports. I can feel, um, less delay? in application of acceleration and braking. hard to explain. But they are awful going over expansion joints in concrete roadways. Mine were 2 piece so, no press needed for installation. But, you really should get/borrow a 200ft/lb torque wrench. lemme find the link.......http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/48910-lower-control-arm-rear-bushing-transverse-link-replaced-prothane-03-outback.html

other possible sources of noise, if I understand what you did (not sure of what components you kept or swapped out), would be; backing plate rubbing on rotor bad/broken/rusty parking brake parts rotor wrong size for caliper caliper stuck on slide pins

bad Engine Temp Sensor (not the gauge sensor, though newer soobs use the same 3 wire unit for both) could easily cause a car to run differently based on temp. vacuum leak will throw off the A:F mixture. many possibilities. Some scanners can retrieve short and longterm fuel trims - that might tell us if the ECU has had to make drastic adjustments.

if a 95 is like an 03, there are star wheel adjusters. Look for an oval rubber plug in the backing plate. Pop it out, adjust the wheel down to loosen, UP to tighten the parking brake shoes. I pull the P-brake handle up to the first click, then tighten the star wheel till the wheel just locks. Do the other side, release/test the brake handle setting.

If the bearing is that bad, you should have a coupla mm or more movement when rocking the wheel up-down/12 o'clock-6o'clock. I think around 02, some folks have found 2 different sizes depending on manufacturing date. If you have the old rotor, or if the opposite side is not grinding - well, I guess I;m saying, take he old or good parts with you and compare 00 years to 03 years. measure the rotors's diameters. I know there was a mid year change in rotor size, plus, as mentioned, the possibility someone has swapped in the wrong parts.

perhaps a slipped TB? it's almost due for its second one. vacuum gauge test can look for clogged cat conv, sticking valve or vacuum leak (i THINK hi NOX is a lean burn problem - though I don't know how to correlate that with a rich condition ECU code ???)