1 Lucky Texan

past due if the time side of the schedule says 30 MONTHS. Dunno about a 2009, but older soob 5MTs are notoriously picky so, Extra-S is your best choice. The tranny shares it's lube with the front diff so, the fluid is a compromise to keep both sections happy.

seems suspiciously like it could be a fuel LEVEL problem. there's a jet pump in the tank that is supposed to move fuel over to the right side. maybe it's partly clogged? Might also be worth inspecting the cap/o-ring on the fuel pump. A coupla of people have found 2.5s with that problem. is it more likely to happen in rain or fog? maybe the coil is arcing? you didn't mention servicing the PCV valve, though I can't really see it being the problem.

OK, fess up, how close to renewal are you?

well, there may very well be damage from running the donut. Subaru AWD is very sensitive to certain tire problems. But, perhaps if you post your city, someone here could at least suggest a mechanic that is more capable.

I used the same stock number. Remeber, I changed the plugs to try to fix the problem, it didn't change anything. The coils and the 'snoots' etc. all looked good. No oil. did that 2.o set any misfire codes? And the guys ocer at scoobymods that thought I had a knock problem were just confused by my having a 32 bit ECU. The IAM number starts at 1 and not 16. They though I had huge knock and the system was pulling timing. As a coincidence, RockAuto was out of stock so, I canceled the knock sensor order. It wasn't gonna be expensive, but don't really see a reason yet to swap it. this is what the log looks like - all 3rd gear at wide open throttle from 2K to near redline ; there are 2 weird cells, Ignition total timing at 3978rpm , and engine load at 4898 . I have no idea if artifacts like that are common, if I was logging too many parameters or if the car missed or ????? I have another runn I need to look at, just hard to get excited about it. I don't understand half of that stuff or how it inter-relates. Clearly, doesn't look like I need to log the variable valve system anymore. Probably don't need intake air temp or all those mass air flow/manifold numbers either.

lol! They must be taking a lesson from Microsoft, "it isn't a bug, it's a feature!' many people would set the parking brake if on an incline - but this still smells like BS to me. when they say "they all do it" I have had good luck with 2 different replies; (look around lot for the same car) "Give me the keys to THAT one and let me see if it does it" or "If they all do THIS, then they are ALL broken, and they need to be fixed, and you can start with mine!" take your pick. if you want to be a little more 'mild', look the person in the eye and ask how he would feel if HIS car had this 'feature'!

, I have Huper Optik (mentioned above) on my 06 WRX. Been on there since spring of 06. It sits outside here in Texas all the time. No weird colors, no bubbles yet. Some very slight distortion around where the edge of the windows rest on the seal. Only visible when I lower the windows. The car is still hot when you get inside, but it cools off very quickly and probably helps the A/C keep up. Protects the interior too I guess. The HO material is ceramic so, might be less attenuation for radio, gps and cellphone signals.

for a 96 ? wow

just wondering if the alt is getting 'field current' but, I'm unsure exactly if the bulb or some diode somewhere might be the problem.

burned-out 'batt' bulb? doesn't current flow thru it for the alt. to work?

eh - RA is out of stock. I canceled the KS. I dunno, might try to post my log at the romraider Forum, hope those guys aren't cranky like over at NASIOC.

Pretty sure I've seen fitted/custom/'vehicle specific' sunshades on Amazon. maybe from subarugenuineparts.com ? also, there are dashcovers that are fitted - I have one on my WRX since it rarely is in a garage.dashmat.com, amazon, coverking, w'ever. consider Huper Optik or other quality tint also.

dig around at opposedforces.com for some diagrams

No issues with the Stant on our 03 H6 OBW

no mention of a boost problem. I could post the log here if anyone is interested. I don't understand half of it. I think the boost is OK. They seem concerned about the IAM which is one of 3-4 parameters related to timing. I think also you may be right Ivan about the sensor's mount location maybe not grounding well(but the sensors has a 2-wire connector i think?). My car stays outside and, as I've mentioned before' I already had to kill the codes for the secondary air valves and pump due to them rusting closed in 4 years. So. if the knock sensor is prone to corrosion issues, maybe a new one is called for. I'm hoping it won't be too tricky to replace or clean under. I plan to try to at least wire-brush under it. I understand I have to duplicate how the pigtail 'dresses' away from it due to some lumps and bumps on the block around the mount area. i may need to pull the intercooler - never did that before.

well, I guess code 32 is kinda severe!

I logged a pull with RomRaider and one person at scoobymods thinks I may have a bad knock sensor. I can get an airtex wells unit from RockAauto for $40 . thinking about just swapping it in. can't get over it being bad at 44K miles but, I dunno, maybe some corrosion got under it?

I've read that the knock sensor can be delicate so, try to find the torque value for installation.

good job on the t'stat but, wonder if the prev. owner has monkeyed with some relays to keep the fans on or ???

was the intake air filter replaced? maybe it wasn't seated well where the tabs go in and high vacuum is making it whistle? have you inspected the brakes? Maybe the inner pad is dragging its squealer. (inner pads almost always wear more than outers) maybe a pebble between the rotor and brake shield.

in addition to the above suggestions; clean the MAF sensor (use proper cleaner for that) possible knock sensor problem too I guess.

yeah, knock sensor or Engine Temp Sensor , less likely, stuck open thermostat - but you didn't mention low temp gauge reading. if you have a scanner that can read freezefram data, you could try to force a CEL and read the FF dtat and look at the long term fuel trims.

could also be carbon buildup in the cylinders. Perhaps a SeaFoam treatment and knock sensor investigation to start?

can you run stickier tires? that will help. put the following on your list of candidates; Centric Posiquiet ceramic or (since you said you can tolerate a little dust) StopTech Street Performance (I've bought them from both RockAuto and KNS Brakes)

if you decide to drill, use a left-hand twist drill - might loosen the bolt as you drill, if not, you can still use the extractoer. or try one of these if the bolt isn't flush; http://www.amazon.com/Mayhew-29895-Stud-Extractor/dp/B000XSCDEA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pdT1_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=IDEFQ97CY9SH&coliid=I3NLVZJOIHS95F http://www.amazon.com/Sunex-2-Inch-Piece-Metric-Puller/dp/B00063Z77W/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=IDEFQ97CY9SH&coliid=I2EAIANO5QBDJC http://www.amazon.com/Titan-Stud-Puller-Drive-Model/dp/B00265M8N4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pdT1_S_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=IDEFQ97CY9SH&coliid=I1X03Z6XADUQ47