1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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any CEL codes stored? -
definitely check into disabling the airbag and or disconnecting the battery before digging in there.
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if there are still bubbles in the radiator, there is either enough localized heating somewhere to boil the coolant, or there is a HG leak. maybe a shop with a tailpipe 'sniffer' could test for hydrocarbons in the radiator better than the chemical test? I dunno, sure seems frustrating and I hope you get it pinned down.
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did any 98s have a rear LSD?
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I believe you mentioned shifting to park/neutral solved the vibration? Many people have found that test to indicate a bad recently replaced axle.Not saying it couldn't be some other issue - or even solved by raising the idle speed. But, if it's a bad axle, rasing the idle speed will just mask the real problem at the expense of more fuel use. do a search, some complaints go back 12 years, known issue.
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there are enough reports of people getting bad rebuilt alts, that taking it back for testing would be the first move I'd make.
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that vibration description fits with bad axles quite well. Known issue with many rebuilt units and at least one post of a worn original soob axle I've read. I suppose a change in idle speed might help. try a search on the issue. If you can live with it, just drive, but the fix is likely a 'better' rebuilt or some new axle.
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most likely, or there is a bad cable/ground or similar issue.
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if you have active bubbling, those are likely combustion gasses from a bad HG. There is a chemical test you could use if you need confirmation.
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cover plate on back of oil pump? cam seal? yeah, need to clean thoroughly and pin down the source.
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I put the breaker bar end on the pad of the floor jack and pushed up with it. (car was on jacks) cheater should work too. I believe there's some type of sealant on the threads, dunno what the FSM recommends putting on there. Probably plenty of people have no problem reinstalling as-is. I used teflon pipe tape. Looking back, probably should have only used it on the drain plugs but, I'm not too concerned about it. Not ideal I know but...
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I used a 1/2" breaker bar on 2 diffs so, 4 plugs total. I did have to use the floor jack to break 'em loose.
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is there a dealer nearby? You might pay a coupla bucks more. The Tama may be OK, just not sure.
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Benelli minibike project
1 Lucky Texan replied to ironworkerboomer's topic in Non Soob Cars and Bikes Discussion
that guy is a bicycle, moped, scooter and motorcycle maniac on American Pickers if you could get an email to him, I'm sure he'd know where you could get some help on info and maybe parts; http://antiquearchaeology.com/ -
Benelli minibike project
1 Lucky Texan replied to ironworkerboomer's topic in Non Soob Cars and Bikes Discussion
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they speak to that in the thread. Of course you can't drive our cars, or most cars, at wot at road speeds because you will accelerate. if no one cared about acceleration, you could use a 10-15 hp engine at wot to drive at a constant 55mph - and get great gas mileage.
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I logged a 'run' at mostly 2k rpm in 4th gear. There's a stoplight in the session. Anyone here familiar with RR logs? I'm wondering also, is there any reasonable way this is related to my bad Secondary Air valves? That is, they rusted closed some time ago, I pulled the fuses and relay and killed the 15 or so codes with RR/ECUFlash. But, suppose they have moved or have corroded more? Could some kind of vapor buildup in them and detonate? To my knowledge, no one has reported a downside to treating the valves as I have, but.....
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I guess you have an automatic? sometimes the stick's handle is covered in grime. Look lower and a little farther back, (opposit side) from the auto's dipstick.
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no fill plug. If manual, they share fluid and are filled through the dipstick tube. if auto, the diff's dipstick in on the other (right) side from the auto dip stick. Also filled thru the tube. I went slowly and used one of these;
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well, according to my urologist, dermatologist and gastroenterologist, I shoulda had rubber gloves slipped over, plastered on and jammed up just about everywhere EXCEPT my hands!
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probably OK, but, if the car has been driven through extremely high water, might be a good idea to do a drain/fill.
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I have also read of a guide plate above the belt at the crank sprocket that needs to be adjusted to a mm or so? I know it's technically to prevent belt jumping should the car be towed in reverse while in gear - but , can't help wondering if it's adjusted correctly. I just forget which year those were added.
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RockAuto Discount Code - Expires 6/15/2013
1 Lucky Texan replied to RockAuto's topic in Products for your Subaru
thanx! -
not sure which codes would be immediate , which would require some multiple occurrences. Since crank and cam sensors are responsible for ignition timing, injector timing, and TB 'health', all fairly critical functions - I'd expect they could be immediate - but I don't know that. maybe someone else will chime in.
