1 Lucky Texan
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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
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for days I wear the grease under my nails like a Badge of Honor ! -
wonder how they would do this at the dealership - say - when they do the 'induction service'?
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most likely electrical. given the work done, look for loose connector. blue clip under the intake manifold for the purge valve ,or, basically all the connectors. Insure no wires are cut/pinched. 341 could be a TB off a tooth.
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interesting thread. I haven't tried ruber/nitrile but def. see how they would help - particularly a pro. Supposedly, used oil is carcinogenic. I admit I've tried mecanix gloves and like them for strut/axle type work, but not for 'finer' work. at my age, I doubt a little more solvent on my skin is gonna matter much. Considering i used to play with liquid mercury, drink out of lawn hoses, and do lots of other dangerous stuff.
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The eldest Subaru, a 1955 Fuji Cabin
1 Lucky Texan replied to 2stroketurbo's topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
ah, so, FHI != Fuji Toshuda -
still fails Trying to get over the learning curve with RomRaider. I have it reading realtime, but my first attempt at logging , the file got 'lost'/unrecorded. the weird thing, I selected misfire count for all 4 cylinders. only recorded 2 misfires in 20 minutes of driving. different cylinders, at idle, while warming up, before I left the driveway!
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No more dangerous than any other connector. I pulled the connector so I could hold the sensor in/over a cardboard box in the garage. Just to keep the excess dripping cleaner and overspray contained.. Probably not necessary - could've taken a small box or even a rag over to the car and left it plugged in. I admit though, i have a habit of re-seating connectors when i encounter a new one or every few years, just to wipe and reconnect the pins after a brief glance inside for any signs of corrosion or melting.
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um, some people DO use additives in the AT, but, the term you used is a little confusing to some of us. There really is no center differential in the 4eat , it's a wet clutch pack. I think 'slip differential additive' just is confusing to us..
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sounds really bad. has this car been maintained well? any work done just before the problem came up? if you run the car with the oil filler cap off, does smoke come out regularly? I'd be tempted to confirm basics like timing belt and compression.
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thanx for the update!
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while my car's MAF is different, I just did the same thing, removed the maf from the intake, cleaned it with CRC MAF cleaner, let it dry for 30 minutes, re-installed it. I don't think there's a better way. Probably a good thing to do each time the intake air filter is changed. eh, maybe every other time.
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seems that there could 2-3 problems with the car but the oil pressure really needs to be addressed immediately. Someone here will be able to tell you how/where to attach an oil pressure gauge, but, in the mean time, check the oil pan for dents. perhaps the pickup in the pan has been damaged or partly blocked by something banging into the oil pan. I'd double check the car's voltage. i suppose you could consider a new oil sending unit. You should know that , oil pressure senders are set at a very low pressure, 4-5 psi. get that fixed. One source of a burning smell could be grease or fluid on the exhaust. Check for split CV boots - often the inner boot. They sling nasty smelling grease onto the exhaust.
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There's a TSB about the ABS pump relay. Try a search for that.
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make sure the tires aren't over-inflated. a 93 could have several bad bushings in control arms too.
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the wrong way to "clean" the motor out
1 Lucky Texan replied to Meeky Moose's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
if it does no harm, I'd say it was the right way! -
still need to get the vac gauge on it. maybe after work since we have more light now. last night , for the first time, I tried the logger part of RomRaider. Evidently, I can't determine which USB port is mapped to com3 on my lenovo laptop. Windows 7 control panel not as helpful as versions in the 'old days'. interesting thing is, for about a day and ahlf, I haven't felt it miss. If it did it, it was too subtle. But, it has done this before. I doubt I would feel convinced the problem was fixed unless it was free of symptoms for a week or more. I suppose cleaning the MAF 'could' have been helpful and it took a coupla drive cycles to re-learn? still, too soon to be feel convinced.
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if you make tight circles on dry pavement, will the car buck/jerk/vibrate? are the tires all the same brand/model/wear-level? have you or a mechanic looked underneath for any obvious drivetrain or brake problems?
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Even with the check engine light (MIL) off, the system likely has codes (DTCs) stored. A mechanic or, use of a scanner (I assume your Euro model 2000 is OBDII protocol?) would be needed to retrieve a stored code. If possible, post the code here. Is the vibration felt in the steering wheel or in the engine? That is, could the vibration be tire or suspension related? In general, it seems you have a problem serious enough that the car has put itself into 'limp' mode but, I am unsure. A mechanic may be needed. If you are going to attempt any further diagnosis yourself, start by trying to scan for stored DTCs.
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more details would be helpful about the car, it's general condition, had it been running good prior to this, any work done before, any check engine or other warning lights on, etc.
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kinda wondering about a possible clogged cat. conv. or other exhaust restriction. vacuum gauge test might show that.
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did this begin slowly? any work done immediately prior to the problem?
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The eldest Subaru, a 1955 Fuji Cabin
1 Lucky Texan replied to 2stroketurbo's topic in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
cool! -
odd no one slipped with a tool and hit any hoses or wiring? P0420 can be caused by many problems, but exhaust leak is one.
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does it run if you get above 1500rpm? assuming good 'tune-up' parts and general condition, maybe a TPS problem.
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perhaps it's flooded? pull a plug and see if it's wet, or try cranking with the gas pedal held to the floor ('clear flood' procedure)
