1 Lucky Texan
-
Posts
10137 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
105
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan
-
meh - no stores closer than Waco to me. still, that's a big savings. -
very odd, but, while friday's trip to and from work seemed trouble free and I was about to claim the problem solved by cleaning the CA sensor, the issue was back today. If I were going to replace the CA sensor, what brand would you guys recommend? Or is there a preference? or a brand I should avoid?
-
the car should run (for a while) with the belt off. To me, it does seem like the alt., but, others here have a lot more experience with stuff like that. I suppose you've looked in the PS tank while idling? maybe sucking in air.
-
I can take pics and measurements if it seems like it's a possible fit. I just know nothing about what swaps so, you'd want to confirm fitment first. They've been in my attic for years and if I could get -say - $75 bucks or so, shipped to the lower 48, I'd be good with that.
-
is the wheel alternately easy-hard-easy-hard-easy as you turn it? There does seem to be a rash of bad steering U-joints ltely that cause that.
-
I have some stock 06 WRX wagon springs. Dunno if/how they might work on your Forry. less than 1900 miles on them.
-
look inside the PS fluid tank while idling. there should be no foam or bubbles. any idea where the fluid went?
-
your reply to this didn't come thru
-
this is preliminary but, after cleaning the CA sensor yesterday, I detected no missing driving to work this morning. I'll feel better by Tuesday/Wednesday next week but, there were metallic particles stuck to the sensor. if it proves out that the car is fixed, I will try to post some pics I took.
-
2006 WRX wagon
-
does this car have the bucket shims or is it screw and locknut like my old 69 Datsun roadster? I dunno, I barely could change spark plugs, getting valve covers off and on, well, that's gonna definitely be at the edge of my comfort zone. still, I will try the above to set a code, and I am gonna inspect the crank sensor for 'debris' as suggested on a different forum. easy stuff first - though I understand the risk is a burnt valve if this contimues and IS a valve train problem. I appreciate the support guys - thanx
-
I did save the plugs, though i didn't number them. I'll look again. about how much would you expect a dealer to charge to check the lash? I'm a little uncomfortable wrenching that deep i think. guess an upside if they don't find a problem would be getting the cover gaskets re-freshed.
-
what year? OBDII has the temp available so, some solution using the diagnostic port would work ; smart phone and Torque or similar app for instance, or standalone display device like ; http://www.amazon.com/ScanGauge-Automotive-Computer-Customizable-Real-Time/dp/B000AAMY86/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1361986606&sr=8-2&keywords=obdII+gauge http://www.amazon.com/PLX-Devices-Kiwi-Bluetooth-Wireless/dp/B004B0C1NE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1361986606&sr=8-3&keywords=obdII+gauge http://www.amazon.com/OBD-II-Display-Speedometer-Voltage-installation/dp/B007PX8476/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1361986606&sr=8-13&keywords=obdII+gauge HEADS-UP display! ; http://www.amazon.com/Head-Display-Speedometer-speed-water/dp/B004YHSO9E/ref=sr_1_14?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1361987093&sr=1-14&keywords=obdII+gauge Do you own a Garmin Nuvi? ; http://www.amazon.com/Garmin-ecoRoute-Vehicle-Diagnostics-Communicator/dp/B003CLYMSU/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1361987093&sr=1-11&keywords=obdII+gauge
-
I don't want to 'guess' with just 43.5 K miles. Would it fail a leak-down or compression test?
-
if you hadn't mentioned the wreck, I would have suggested you check the battery for a bad cell, clear the codes and see if any come back. But, those may all be legit. Still, I had a bad battery set wierd, spurious codes in out Outback. And, if the battery is original, it's getting really old.
-
That's one thing that's frustrating, no misfire code. No codes at all. I read one thread at NASIOC about debris on the end of the crank angle sensor(most of those cars also were higher mileage though). , plus, seems like an easy thing to too check so, I plan to pull it soon. Plus, I will be able re-seat its connector/inspect the cable. I'm not hopeful that will be the problem either, but easy enough to try.
-
in the car? I recently read of someone who removed the motor mounts and exhaust manifolds, etc. and used strap wrenches to pull the engine left for right side access, then right for left access. seemed like a good idea.
-
OK, I know this is reaching, but you might also try jiggling, vibrating, etc. the ignition locks, steering column, fuse/relay blocks themselve, the 'virgin switch/parking switch , the hazard flasher switch and even the rear hatch. as mentioned before, triple check for any other electrical problem. power windows, brake lights, dome lights, powered antenna booster, etc.
-
might be interesting to have someone monitor the leakage current while someone bounces the car at each corner or pulls, pushes on wire harnesses.
-
I wouldn't rule out the crank angle sensor.
-
is it a nasty kinda plastic/oil smell? could be a split CVJ boot, probably an inner one. any drips under the car? check the differential, power steering and transmission oil levels too.
-
how likely would that be at 45K miles? no history of engine work.
-
DANG! - wish I had known to do this but, as it happens, I DID see the springs in 2 of the coil packs (one because I was curious, the other because at one point, I thought it would make removing the rear DS coil easier to pull it off) and they were bright and shiny. None of the rubber 'snouts' were oily ,wet, dirty or otherwise looking bad. Each coil also had its connector re-seated.
