1 Lucky Texan

ooh! you're right , JATCO supplies nissan and soob (well, for a significant number of year I'd guess) http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jatco

dang, seemed like good stuff to me (I got 2 of them) and some people I respect on this and another forum liked them too. maybe Raxles will be the next source??? edit; just read the link. Seems weird, like a spinoff of the new axle biz to USA Industries - but, will the axles come from the same ISO-9002 factory? Just thru a new company?

I wonder if there is some kinda organization behind the existing 'hobby garages' ? i ask because, the AMA (Americam Modelers Association) has a deal where, any RC modeler that belongs, is covered by a million $ policy (might be more now, it's been decades since I learned about that) and, folks who operate skating rinks I believe have an organization that offers some kinda insurance. And local Gem&Mineral clubs (rockhounds) have a simialr deal, thru the AFMS I think, that covers folks on field trips and visitors. I guess it just works better for an organization to shop around for insurance since it offers a 'collective' amount of money for a blanket policy instead of everyone shopping individually. maybe associate it with some existing non-profit and get a salary to manage it?

I think some alternators are shared with Nissan but, it's gonna be on a case-by-case basis. Some brake calibers might be found on other cars - maybe starters? some folks here might be able to help if you let us know specifically what the issue is.

here's a cool video of how the cycle works to clear the glass of tunsten deposits;

there's a point at which the 'cycle' inside halogen lamps doesn't work. Some kinda tungsten/halide/quartz magic is happening that re-deposits metal vapor onto the filament (I probably have the details wrong), but only if it's hot enough. But i suspect they can still operate at lower power since that's how DRLs operate. there's probably some kinda curve that shows the optimum temps or a lower limit. not sure it that's what gloyale was referring to.

You might consider some of the following ideas; 'coupons' for -what? - maybe 15 minute intervals of professional help. maybe give 4 or more as an incentive for a membership. They expire every 2 months, but members get 2 new ones every month. Coupons could also be used for 'sick-days' when you can't make it in to work on the car. maybe Walk-ins/non-members get bumped down the waiting list if a member needs a bay.Non-memembers buy pro assistance. maybe a high 'minimum for the first 15 minutes, then a reduced amount for every 15 after the first. video surveillance. might cut down a little on disappearing tools, might be helpful if an accident occurs. consider having customers watch a short safety video. Check with insurance company if it might save you some money. How to decide when to 'evict' someone's car. 4 consecutive weekdays of no work done or 3 days if a Sat or Sun is one of the no-shows? park it? tow it after X days? check into 'abandoned car' rules and liens. Ask local police if they need vin numbers to check for stolen vehicles? maybe just vehicles that look like they are being parted out? check into 'sponsorship' . maybe some tool, lubricant or parts company would furnish free/discounted products if you use their stuff and put up some banners. get a 'roach-coach'/food truck to stop by. (kick-back?) get a mobile detailing service lined up. (kick back?) sponsor an occasional basic maintenance Powder-Puff seminar, First Car seminar for ladies and teens. Have a coupla car-port bays for quick stuff(battery, belt swaps,plug changes etc.) maybe some intermediate covered bays with drains/w'ever where ramps are allowed for fluid changes. a lot just depends on what you feel your typical customer is like, and how accomodating you want to be for a customer with more extensive needs. For instance, ,right now I'm trying to change a front hub bearing assembly on my daighter's car and it's taking be MUCH longer than I expected. But other things like an oil change or pad-slapping the brakes, might never take more than an hour or 2. It's kinda like a bell curve. Someone that needs a spot for less than half a day, shouldn't get gouged. Someone needing a spot for a month shouldn't either(that's steady, guaranteed money - maybe after 2 weeks though, the price starts creeping up to encourage getting the car outta there?). someone taking up a spot for several days - well, you need to encourage people to clear up space for the next paying customer. Maybe only allow long-term rental to one spot. keep a waiting list for it or find some way to auction it off???? maybe develop a way for people to earn time when they help other folks. Like collecting 'Thumbs Up' from other users. Or, that may very well lead to a lot of liability and perhaps customers should be warned to refrain from offering help to other patrons ????? just some odd thoughts I had about it.

I always wondered about that. If they would thump or otherwise have a symptom.

I dunno GD, looks like tool requires a lot of room to use compared to any clamp I've seen. But certainly would be inexpensive in the long run.

pardon my ignorance but, what should the pressure be?

if there's risk of this thing falling in, tie it off with a string or wire somewhere. maybe vibrating the wrench somehow would help - big Allen in a drill-driver spinning against the wrench ???? (inbeforeusePBBlaster)

I need torque values for 2006 impala (w/ABS) front bearing (hba) swap. axle nut, caliper bracket, the 3 HBA bolts, even lugnuts - plus anything else or other tips you have. trying to help my youngest daughter out and i have zero experience with doing this. I have looked at a youtube video and read about it. thanx

I just learned of a place in Plano TX that does this. called Jack Junkies I think. maybe check out his pricing structure. yeah; http://www.jackjunkies.com/index.html

just keep skin oils and any other debris/substance off the glass and you should be OK. If you do touch the glass, it should be cleaned before installation, alcohol would be my guess as to a solvent.

I was kinda thinking $2K but, so much depends on who does the work, local prices, used or dealer or aftermarket parts, etc. good point on what the replacement is gonna be. If buying a new car - $2K is what? 6 car payments +/- ?

if you've owned it for 14 years, you're probably getting tired of it too. While everything you listed can either be repaired or 'lived with', I doubt anyone would fault you for letting this go to a kid who needs a school car or w'ever.

you might consider narva +30 or +50 if available in that size. Haven't had mine long enough to comment on longevity but, the seem slightly brighter. maybe an HIR type bulb too. or read-up at danielsternlighting.com . short of an HID install, there's not much in the way of brighter bulbs that won't come with shorter lifespan or the risk of melted wires/housings. and, there are ways to re-polish the yellow, pitted lenses on older cars that will help with brightness.

I'd be tempted to do 2 things to begin with; Clear the codes and monitor how quickly/which ones return. Inspect for rodent damage to wires/hoses.

yeah, I was thinking the 06 WRX got a faster ratio than previous WRX - not certain.

could it be the TPS?

any sign of rodents around the car?

around here, batteries are suspect at 3 years of age. they are getting old at 2.5 and rarely last over 5. But cooler locales should be able to get a longer lifespan if the battery is not abused. Any complete discharge of a typical auto battery will usually decrease its lifespan as well so, it isn't out of the realm of possibility your battery was bad, and evidently that was indicated at the parts store. Still, worth doing the test outlined above on parasitic current drain.

yeah, I could esily have 3 completely separate issues and I'm trying to keep an open mind on there being any common source or not. The car is 10 years old (though only 70K miles) and stuff starts failing I know.

low beams work and, at least once when I was 'experimenting' with the problem, the DRL came back on after I turned the lights off! does the module control a separate relay that is intermittent maybe?

Just wondering if anyone knew if the DRL module and the Illumination Control Module on an 03 H6 Outback might share a bulkead connector or a ground or ???. I have mentioned in other posts about the illumination issue and I do have a replacement module, but I also recently noticed intermittent operation of the Daytime Running Lights. (I also have an intermittent brake light, but I think that's from a sticking float in the brake fluid reservoir) just wondering if a schematic shows anything in common. thanx