1 Lucky Texan

definitely the front sensor. Wouldn't be unusual to be bad at that mileage, but also good to look for other possible causes like wiring. if you replace it, use OEM or Denso part. generics have been reported to not work well. I think there is a way to use an oscilloscope to see if it is swictching correctly.

sounds like a fun project. build 2, sell one to pay for yours!

you might consider new hoses if yours seem worn, they can 'balloon' and make the system feel soft, also, consider going back with SpeedBleeders; they have a check-valve inside. not cheap though.

miles' approach is similar to mine, 'specialized' containers. Household stuff broken down by function, electrical ,water supply, water drainage, woodworking, painting etc. Similar with the car stuff. Of course there's overlap and I have a 'generic' bag( Hammer, dogbone wrench, knife, needlenose w/sidecutter, waterpump pliers, medium crescent, vice grips, screwdrivers etc.) that usually goes along with each of the special bags/boxes. I'd be worried though about thievery. Consider bowling bags. might take more than one for some of you guys but, they don't scream STEAL ME at least. Pick 'em up at thrift stores/garage sales.

what cars? some newer legacies have HBAs dont they?

try tightening, then loosening. sometimes helps other than that - I dunno

oops! sry

others will be in with some ideas. First, will it start with the pedal on the floor? That's the typical 'clear flood' routine. do a compression test, maybe the oil control rings or some other issue with compression has cropped up. When you pull the plugs, see if they are uniformly wet or just some of them. recheck cam timing Check fuel pressure - maybe high? just some ideas

nvrmd - dunno anything about the '12 washers.

there must be a sticking relay somewhere they could just swap out.

I usually replace. I have re-used successfully. right now, working thru a box of Dorman i got from Amazon Dorman 095-142 Oil Drain Plug Gasket - Pack of 10

I could see it being MUCH easier nowadays to pour some corn syrup or Pepsi w'ever in rather than trying to get a a powdered substance past that filler flap deal.

I bet this was caused by someone making a mistake with some additive. putting it in the tank instead of the radiator, or thinking 5 cans will work better than one or something. sodium silicate is used in some radiator stop-leaks products. oh yeah, I'll ask the obvious; Did you taste a piece of the deposit to see if it's sweet? a REAL mechanic would. lol!

when cars are turned for 'cash-for-clunkers' programs, they are supposed to use something to destroy the engine. I THINK it may be sodium silicate, but, w'ever it is, I wonder if somehow, that car was supposed to go to a crusher after a C4C deal? Problem is, unless they were confused, the silicate is supposed to go into the crankcase after draining the oil. Or, did someone go overboard on some kinda headgasket fix/'mechanic in a can' stuff? anyway, if you are finding crystals in the tank, clearly the stuff is not very well dissolved by gasoline. But it certainly seems enough is - or gets through - to cause problems!

that's crazy looking stuff. But, supposedly, sugar is insoluble in gasoline (despite the 'common wisdom' of sabotaging a vehicle with it - dunno about gas with 10% ethanol) but, it WOULD clog a filter. Dunno about honey or molasses. wonder what the 'sock'/strainer on the fuel pump looks like? Or could that stuff have come from the PCV system? maybe put some near a sweet-eating ant bed and see if they go for it!

shop for EMPI axles at RockAuto, or reboot a subaru axle from a junkyard. typical rebuilts from car parts houses are notoriously variable in quality. try not to run it much if at all or the seal in the diff may get compromised.

Most of that equipment is just a scope, voltmeters and frequency counters and a freq. generator. T hat was in my first year or so of almost 12 years working on surface and borehole instrumentation for oil/gas exploration. (called 'logging' equipment in the biz) this is pretty close to what my hair looks like these days;

at work, we often see the magic smoke released after an I. D. 10 T. error. ID10T

too many red flags to treat it as other than an 'as is' parts car, price-wise at least.

maybe dig around at www.opposedforces.com for a soob part number. interesting, at RockAauto, the 'info' button leads to this; http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1835962&cc=1269659

http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/104-gen-4-2010-present/23769-low-oil-level-light-after-oil-change.html

I found this; http://www.legacycentral.org/library/torquebind.htm along with a mention of RockAuto listing a 'repair sleeve' for transmissions. haven't confirmed that and it may be an old reference.

assuming the total mass in that pic is 1/4 - 1/2 teaspoon or so, it fairly well matches the stuff I've wiped off the diff magnets on my cars. FWIW

Hey, 1975 called, they want their hair back! lol! this is me about 1975 plus/minus a year or 2;

I recently had a 13 loaner Outback and found (other than all the electronic gadgets) it really only felt 2-3 years more 'advanced' than our 03 H6 Outback. Road noise seemed about the same to me. and, a few weeks later, I had a 13 Ford (um, Edge I think) and it had a several bad ergonomic problems I thought - and road noise. seems like they just wanna throw electronic gadgets in cars instead of 'real' engineering nowadays.