1 Lucky Texan

test with cd and cassette. If they work, could be the antenna amp got fried and broadcast stations don't come in well. I think 2001 has an antenna amp - not sure ?

http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=5&cad=rja&ved=0CFwQFjAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov%2Facms%2Fcs%2Fjaxrs%2Fdownload%2Fdoc%2FUCM431591%2FRCDNN-12V602-9293.pdf&ei=XuzlUOucPIWA2AXllYEg&usg=AFQjCNFiVqwosdpac7L6uwCDCbLwVqGDRw&bvm=bv.1355534169,d.b2I looks like the cable or PCB will get a 250mA fuse at each puddle light location.

the paragraph just prior to the statement quoted has a list of presupposed conditions too. I think also, there's a difference between 'thickness variation' and something shaped like a Pringles potato chip that would have the same thickness all around. (actual warpage) I suspect, more often than not, pad deposition is causing pedal pulsation and probably other problems on road cars. Of COURSE, rotors (and wheels for that matter) can be installed incorrectly or be bad from the factory.

more details; I suppose if someone has added their own puddle lights, this should be a warning to make certain their mod is well protected from moisture/salt spray.

good call!

I have no idea if pad material can break down with time so, I'd say your calculations are as good an indicator as anything else would be. I suppose it might still be a good idea to tear down and lube stuff as I'm sure exposure/time/corrosion etc. can still affect the slide pins and other moving parts. In the US, there can be a slight asymmetry to pad wear favoring the pass side. this is due to parking at the curb where gravel, leaves and other debris may allow a little sliding that the DS doesn't experience. This is most extreme on Postal Vehicles but, the DS is probably the best 'tattle-tale' for general pad wear. And, suppose a caliper is sticking at one of the other 2 corners?

someone will probably know but, could you inspect the other side easily?

possibly a pebble stuck between the rotor and the dust shield.

were the heads off the car for a long time? I once had a Honda engine mostly disassembled but still in the car, in my driveway. and, after I put it back together, the oil pressure relief valve was stuck. I suppose I'm wondering if just being exposed for a while could lead to some gummy/varnish forming on the pistons/oil control rings.

any blue smoke? at start-up, deceleration or on acceleration?

I think I've read that oil from the PCV hose can lower effective octane so, perhaps that is a possible reason for pinging?

triple check routing of valve cover breather hoses and pcv hose. someone once actually heard gurgling in the dipstick tube due to misrouted hoses. also, I've read that MMO and seafoam and maybe other treatments in the oil can free-up gummy oil control valves.

while your troubleshooting, we'll watch popo-chan;

maybe try leaving the gas cap off and see if there's a change? might implicate or exonerate the evap system. IIRC, the canister and purge valve are back there. i dunno, might just need to turn your amp up to 11.

not too bad, I was my own worst enemy starting thinking I could just smear some grease around it instead of fixing it correctly the first time.

here's my story; http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/40884-how-does-air-get-into-power-steering-system.html since then, I have had no problems. You should be aware there is also a TSB concerning the pressure relief valve in the side of the pump (maybe H6 engines ??? not sure) that can cause groaning but it seems the symptom is groaning at full lock. bubbles/foam is no good. anyway, fix the o-ring, put screw-type hose clamps on both ends of the suction hose after inspecting it for cracks. repalce as much old ps fluid as possible with Dex III compatible fluid.

I have no experience but, when these type issues come up, I often wonder if there's a way to compensate with different tire sizes on front vs rear axle. maybe not practical for many people but, just a mental exercise hah!

yeah, I once had some weirdness caused by a sagging/shorted filament inside a dual element bulb.

code probably still pending or otherwise retreivable. swing by a PepBoys or other such place, they will read the code at no charge. Have them clear the ECU if they will and report the code(s) here. Monitor how quickly the light comes back on and be prepared to have the system read again but, it seems it will set the code repeatedly.

I recently used some Redline Lightweight Shockproof (smurf blood!) in diffs and transmissions in our 2 soobs and it seemed to cut the 'normal' front diff whine in our H6 Outback approx in half. Slightly improved 'speed shifting' in my WRX 5spd. It has some kinda particles in suspension so, maybe it's quieter because it works in a slightly different way? Not for any system with a pump or filter.(STI 6 speed for example) expensive to try very many lubes but, that's the only suggestion I have. chances are, if a well maintained diff has sustained some kinda damage, oil is not gonna fix it.

good question tell us the symptoms you had as there are a coupla other fixes for noisy PS pump. (o-rings, TSB for relief valve)

subafreak wins the thread!

nvrmnd

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=137882