1 Lucky Texan

try pulling fuses and relays until the sound stops, see what circuit is involved.

was fuel still being pumped in from the injectors? or id that injector stuck open w;ever? could be cylinder wash-down from too much fuel. Of course, could be some other/worse things - just suggesting something kinda hopeful.

in addition to the back of the socket itself being fused, I think there's a fuse in the fuse box too.

evidently, I've been diligent about topping off the washer fluid in my wife's 03 OBW and recently learned that, wisely, Subaru has arranged the rear window's pump to have an inlet at a higher level in the tank, than the front windshield's motor and the rear will stop spraying while the front still sprays. So, instead of troubleshooting a blockage, I just needed to add fluid. On my WRX, I replaced both the drive belts. Took the opportunity to put some anti-seize on the adjusting screws. figure it might help reduce corrosion down the line.

i learned something new - cool

does it change turning/sweeping left vs right? sometimes the change in load while turning will make the intensity of the sound vary in a bearing. do you have a remote infrared thermometer? sometimes (not always) a bad wheel bearing will be 10-20 degrees warmer than it's companion on the other side. Try to measure immediately after stopping. (dragging brakes could warm up a wheel too.)

first suspect would be the dust shield rubbing on the rotor. I suppose the parking brake could need some adjustment.

cutting the trace is good technique. It's reversible. scrape the solder mask off the trace on both sides of the cut and bridge over with solder - or a strand of wire (like 28 gauge wire-wrap wire) and solder over the gap.

just seems to me, the magnet would be more loaded than he reported. sweeping a magnet through some of the fluid should tell him if it's steel.

yeah, I didn't mean the column, but that piece you indicated. (although I don't think it's like the pic in the link) I've read the module is behind the radio in 2000 or maybe 2001 so, hope it IS behind that kick panel. rather have a module in my hand before I take my wife's car apart though since it isn't 'critical' to driving the car. Since I can vary the lighting from 'incredibly dim' to 'extremely dim' , I know the stalk control is working at least.

seems to me, the 'sparklies' must be aluminum. Otherwise, seems like they'd be on the magnet. so, would this mean something is out of position and rubbing on the case? what's the most likely scenario for that?

do you mean pull the plastic trim under the column? Looks like a screw on the right and maybe a couple of push-clips on the door side. Is that it? it certainly is a mess up under there and just looking from the floor, I couldn't see anything that made sense. Oh, I know the green connectors should be disconnected except for certain test purposes, but there was a disconnected white conn. as well. Couldn't see where it might go, it is near the green conns. and has very little 'slack'. anyway, if anyone knows of a drawing or good diagram/photo of what that area looks like and where this module is, i would forever be in your debt if you could point me to it. I don't WANT it to be behind the radio, but it seems it is on earlier year models. PLUS, I'm told by Fred Beans that this module is discontinued and no one has any. maybe I can disassemble and troubleshoot it?

I think I got only about 1/4 to 1/2 teaspoon fo sludge off my diff plugs so, maybe things aren't too bad yet? used diff is probably best. From what I've read, the viscous LS function might be worn-out by 60K miles anyway so, that may not be a factor. Outbacks with the All Weather package got the VLSD, if the ratio is the same, it opens up more cars to look for.

what did the magnet on the drain plug look like?

the SSRs and the Enkeis I've had were both made 'for' soobs and had no adapters or xtra holes. But i have seen aftermarkets like you describe. (does Enkei make the OEM rims for subaru?)

if a rim is positioned/centered by close fitment around the hub - it's considered hub-centric. If some rim from a different car is fitted, the hole for the hub might be smaller or larger. larger 'might' be OK - but an adapter could be required - otherwise you are relying on the lugnust to center the rim (lug centric) and take all the load. Might be OK - but not advisable. The offset is basically how the wheel is positioned to place the load directly under the bearing. If the offset is wrong, the rim will be pushed-in or pushed-out and, in addition to possibly rubbing on the strut/spring , or the fender, it puts an offset load on the wheel bearing which might lead to early failure. much of this info applies; http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wheel_sizing most people would opt to +1 the rim size for new summer rims. so, look at 17 or stay with 16.

well, the new rims 'should' be hub-centric (or corrected with an adapter) and have the correct offset (within a few millimeters anyway). And they must clear the caliper. Going down in size might mean caliper interference. a shop like Tirerack or Discount Tire would likely only recommend correctly sized rims. shopping the used market, you will need to confirm fitment. you might wanna read some of the 'sticky'/FAQ threads here; http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=88 no wiggle room on the 5x100 unless you somehow change your hubs. I THINK the 100 is the diameter of the circle on which the center of the 5 lug holes are positioned. basically, it's the spacing of the lugs. Some newer Soobs have larger spacing so, be careful.

lol! oh, I just kept saying 'they' so, um, yeah, sorry

my 78 Civic had a belt. IIRC (and WAS interference) - my 81 Civic wagon did. they go back to the 60s but weren't common. might've been the early 80s - whenever the first ones started showing up 'en masse' it was a problem because tow truck drivers were accustomed to just dragging stuff away. If they dragged it backwards with it in first gear, some engines would turn backwards and jump time.

I recall a rash of jumped timing in the first 'wave' of FE/FWD cars in the 70s due to being towed when in gear. I don't think many of those were interference engines, but folks would go down to the impound and the car wouldn't run.

might be worth shopping around as I saw prices under $5 (dunno if that was each - likely - or for a pair though)

brief amount of digging 'seems' to indicate some difference between pad anti-rattle clip 26232ac000 and the updated number 26232fe002 (replaced fe001) but I can't find reliable pics to know what looks like what. some people run without them. might get a little noise occasionally. (it would bug me not to install them though)

look what I found (do yourself a big favor and skip to about 2:55) ; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CE2N7-jrZVY

it seems weird for a manufacturer to issue a TSB about an aftermarket part. and, it does seem you could use 3 narrow loops of solid 18 gauge wire - one in the middle and one at each end - , or, just check with a feeler gauge as mentioned. But, if it came in the gates kit, I'd definitely use it!

nvrmd