1 Lucky Texan

my 78 Civic had a belt. IIRC (and WAS interference) - my 81 Civic wagon did. they go back to the 60s but weren't common. might've been the early 80s - whenever the first ones started showing up 'en masse' it was a problem because tow truck drivers were accustomed to just dragging stuff away. If they dragged it backwards with it in first gear, some engines would turn backwards and jump time.

I recall a rash of jumped timing in the first 'wave' of FE/FWD cars in the 70s due to being towed when in gear. I don't think many of those were interference engines, but folks would go down to the impound and the car wouldn't run.

might be worth shopping around as I saw prices under $5 (dunno if that was each - likely - or for a pair though)

brief amount of digging 'seems' to indicate some difference between pad anti-rattle clip 26232ac000 and the updated number 26232fe002 (replaced fe001) but I can't find reliable pics to know what looks like what. some people run without them. might get a little noise occasionally. (it would bug me not to install them though)

look what I found (do yourself a big favor and skip to about 2:55) ; http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CE2N7-jrZVY

it seems weird for a manufacturer to issue a TSB about an aftermarket part. and, it does seem you could use 3 narrow loops of solid 18 gauge wire - one in the middle and one at each end - , or, just check with a feeler gauge as mentioned. But, if it came in the gates kit, I'd definitely use it!

nvrmd

just adding http://www.fredbeansparts.com/ (PA I think) I've done a little business with FB (they have free shipping on 'cyber' Monday I think) I've done more biz with subarugenuineparts.com (if you have an odd request, email Jamie through the website - she's great.)

irie !

there is definitely 'some' amount of current thru the lights as they are on very dimly, but, i will try to check voltages on the violet and the , is it orange and wht?, wires. I suppose there could be a ground somewhere that is poor, just seems odd it went bad so quickly. I'm recovering from a severe cold/sinus infection but, maybe tomorrow I'll be able to crawl around under the dash without passing out lol!

I thought the dash lights (and radio controls) were completely dark but, they appear to vary from extremely dim to off when I turn the dimmer control on the left stalk of my wife's 03 H6 OBW. I'm gonna try changing the Illumination Control Module (part # 83023AE01A) but I was wondering if someone could point me to the general area it would be installed. It seems some cars have it behind the radio, others near the glove box.. thanx in advance

heck, you could start with half a bottle. you can do a search and find folks on both sides of the issue. But if Subaru was willing to warranty cars that had this installed when new - seems like it should be OK in an otherwise well-maintaned and functioning older coolant system. Of course, if I just bought an abused 175k miles car with rusty old coolant, then decide to throw in some of this or any other leak-stop, well, I could definitely see partially clogged radiator passages or maybe weak thermostats etc. being clogged or gummed up in some way.

dunno if available for your engine, but Aisin is well-regarded for the newer cars.

fuel pump cap o-ring, no start/non-start condition issue problem no/low pressure Fuel pump resevoir metal cap replacement discussion

In an attempt to have a spare cap on hand when I inspect my wife's car's fuel pump cap and o-ring, I purchased a used pump from a car being parted out. Well, it has the beginnings of a compromised tab! I'm very disappointed and have ordered the 05 style large cap from parstgeek so I will have a known good cap on hand. (I'll just save the used pump for it's motor or in case I break something or need its gasket - sigh, kinda bummed about that.) BUT, it tells me many of use could be driving around with 'ticking time bombs' . Of course, the vehicle this pump cam from may have gone to 300,000 miles and then to the junkyard befor the cap loosened enough for the o-ring to pop out - but I can't stand the thought that me or my wife could be crossing a busy intersection or on the highway out of town and the car just shuts off. outside of large tab; insdie view; here's what I just ordered; W0133-1617990 Genuine 2004 Subaru Legacy Fuel Filter Fuel Delivery Fuel Filter Processing 1 0 $38.10 $0.00 Subtotal: $38.10 Shipping: $7.95 Total: $46.05 I will probably go to NAPA and see if they have the metric -928 o-rings in viton

take an inch out of the other side? that thing seems kinda brittle doesn't it? (sounds like something that would happen to me)

did you put in new fluid? where did you get it? I THINK I once read an article or maybe watched a video(Australian source IIRC) about testing and modifying those viscous units. A guy had one chucked in a lathe and was testing/measuring it with some kind of torque wrench.

start with 06 or 07 wrx engine and drivetrain, except , maybe find 87-88 rear diff with true lsd - not worn out viscous.

seems familiar but i don't recall what kind of car this was. there is a TSB for a pressure relief valve in the side of the PS pump. and, again, IIRC , one of the symptoms is noise at the lock position. OK, found the info; http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/tsb-04-13-09-power-12373.html

I'm just gonna posit that, when people panic, they tend to go overboard on stuff and maybe, when a mechanic experiences a lot of cars with coolant systems clogged with 'leak stop' - it could be due to improper application of the product, or use of several products ("Hey,if one bottle is recommended for leaking, maybe 3 bottles will save my blown gaskets") - type of mentality. but more research can't hurt.

1988 and later models with Multi-Point Fuel Injection (including Legacy) 11 Crank angle sensor or circuit 12 Starter switch or circuit 13 Cam position sensor or circuit (TDC sensor on Justy) 14 Fuel injector no. 1 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX); Fuel injector 1 and 2 (XT, Loyale, GL, DL) 15 Fuel injector no. 2 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX); Fuel injector 3 and 4 (Loyale, GL, DL); Fuel injector 5 and 6 (XT6) 16 Fuel injector no. 3 (Legacy, Impreza, Justy, SVX); Fuel injector 3 and 4 (XT) 17 Fuel injector no. 4 (Legacy, Impreza, SVX); Fuel injector 1 and 2 (XT6) 18 Fuel injector no. 5 (SVX) 19 Fuel injector no. 6 (SVX) 21 Coolant temperature sensor or circuit 22 Knock sensor or circuit (right side on SVX) 23 Air flow meter or circuit (exc. Justy); Pressure sensor (Justy) 24 Air control valve or circuit (exc. Justy); Idle speed control solenoid valve (Justy) 25 Fuel Injector 3 and 4 (XT6) 26 Air temperature sensor (Justy) 28 Knock sensor no. 2 (SVX, left side) 29 Crank angle sensor (SVX, no. 2) 31 Throttle position sensor or circuit 32 Oxygen sensor or circuit (no. 1, right side on SVX) 33 Vehicle speed sensor (VSS) or circuit 34 EGR solenoid valve 35 Canister purge solenoid or circuit 36 Air suction solenoid valve (Impreza); Igniter circuit (Justy) 37 Oxygen sensor (no. 2, left side , SVX) 38 Engine torque control (SVX) 41 Air/fuel adaptive control 42 Idle switch or circuit 43 Throttle switch (Justy) 44 Wastegate duty solenoid (turbo) 45 Pressure duty solenoid (turbo)/atmospheric pressure sensor circuit (non-turbo) 49 Airflow sensor 51 Neutral switch (manual transmission)/inhibitor switch (automatic transmission) 52 Parking brake switch (exc. Justy)/Clutch switch (Justy) 55 EGR temperature sensor 56 EGR system 61 Parking brake switch (Loyale)/Fuel tank pressure control solenoid valve (Impreza) 62 Fuel temperature sensor (Impreza)/Electric load signal (Justy) 63 Fuel tank pressure sensor (Impreza)/Blower fan switch (Justy) 65 Vacuum pressure sensor your 30 is weird, at least, there's no 30 for any soob at the above site. clear them out and see which ones come back immediately. from troublecodes.net

i'd say your skipped tooth is a possibility - especially if it seems doggy when driven.

that side would likely be hotter than the other if either pads, or the parking brake shooes inside the 'hat', were dragging. Feel or try to measure (with an infrred remote therm) the temps - one side then the other. Some say, and I have suggested in the past, that if a bearing is going out, the same test will work, but i tested that recently on my car when I had a known bad bearing (when on jacks, left rear wheel would move about 2mm) and there was no temp difference. I'd say, feel for temp differences, inspect the brakes, but prepare for it to be the bearing. Though a clunk seems more like a pad or caliper problem. longshot might be tire rubbing on the spring perch - but you'd likely see the tire 'leaning' or the car leaning oddly. Even broken springs can LOOK ok when their loaded. at that mileage - some people would have already changed bearings 2-3 times! (my WRX got a rear bearing at just 42K !)

is there an opportunity to have someone move the car while you listen outside? At least you may be able to determine if the sound is central or L/R. have you inspected the brakes or other components? certainly carrier bearing/u-joints would be suspect if the sound is central.

would brake-throttle modulation work even better with ABS? That is, keeping some throttle applied, left-foot the brake pedal, the ABS stops any spinning wheel and the diff moves torque to the stationary wheel. might be worth a try