1 Lucky Texan

I'd guess the problem with compressed air or other pressurized substance ,could be bad for seals. Certainly you want the least pressure that 'might' work.

DOH! Is the OEM part for those cars the same as aftermarket? I admit to being ignorant about the older soobs. Dunno how I got in this thread - I'll just go back to lurking.

I would think with the entire rear on jack stands, any slight offset after one side is connected could be lined-up with a floor or scissor jack under the 'low' side to lift it slightly (be careful). But I haven't done it yet - but that is likely coming up soon. Long story but, if Service King doesn't install my Kartboy links on the front sway bar, I'll do it when I get my car back.

I think that's the one I bought - I haven't got a tool yet for the band though. i plan to put it on the oem axle I took off, then keep that axle for a spare. (I was stupid and let the first one off her car go.) any band crimping advice?

I think I asked before but, where do you get your boot kits? or, which boots would you stay away from?

dang! beat me by 1 minute! I think EMPI have a lifetime warranty too. probably excludes the boots though. not sure???

that rebuild price seems quite high if you're talking about boot kits to install yourself. Anyway, the 2 EMPIs I've installed seem OK - but they have very low miles on them. Both here and at another forum, they seem to have a good reputation. MWE only rebuilds OEM axles and they have a great reputation. Some folks like Raxles.com and they have a good rep. with the VW community it seems. if you can just avoid 'typical' rebuilts where they just grind the grooves and fit larger ballbearings, you have a better chance of longterm success. The grinding removes the case hardening on the wear surfaces.

yeah, because of screens in the banjo bolts, avvl (and turbo) oil supply really needs to be CLEAN and , likely, synthetic oil. That should help with bottom end lubrication too. and my 06 WRX is DBW, there's no more throttle 'lag' than any other fuel injected car I've driven, and less than some. that's about the limit of my help on a project like this, sounds fun!

nvrmd

EDIT !; please ignore my posts in this thread. I have little knowledge and no experience with older soobs. this is the Stant Xacstat #48457 that is supposedly built like a soob unit NOT FOR EA SERIES THOUGH _ MY MISTAKE !;

good point. I've also read that flakes of rust or other debris could prevent a rotor from seating flat on the hub.

seems unlikely you'd get cool air AND a low temp reading, and it NOT be something common. Air bubble, bad flow, open t'stat w'ever. Maybe pull the t'stat and test it on the stove - should open at 170f. and of course close again.

I'm in NO position to offer a critique, I'll leave that to the real mechanics, but cardoc on 'another' forum has tried to put together a post and a video to hlep folks with 420 problems. fyi http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/66-problems-maintenance/49537-p0420-diag.html

I always wondered how that would work, any pics around of this process. I never wrenched that deep on a soob engine - yet.

at 160K, it's worth double checking ball joints, tie rods, steering rack bushings, lower control arm bushings, etc. but the 2 most common causes are, uneven pad deposits (so-called 'warped' rotors) and bad tires. (the worn tire itself may point to a problem with toe/tie rods or ball joint) maybe try (in a safe location) 30 medium-hard stops, from 30mph, with 30 seconds cool-down cruising in between each stop. If that makes things worse, you need new rotors. If it doesn't make things better, and all the other parts/tires are known good, try a more agressive 'bedding-in' procedure (check the technical white papers info at stoptech.com). if a hot brake/panic stop has ever occurred, followed by sitting still with the pads clamped in one spot, rotors can get permanently altered spots in the alloy and turning them will only help for a very short time.

blackstone might still be able to do something with your filter. call or email to find out regardless, it sounds bad - like something too dense to get carried to the filter settled to the bottom of the pan.

I thought I had read of some holes in the flexplate that can be used to hold the crank still. also, what about a 'starter bump' for loosening? anyone try that with the H6?

this has been coming up on some Forums lately so, thought i would ask here; Is there an aftermarket lightweight pulley replacement option like the Impreza guys all have?

Yeah, often, cars that have poor reliability reputations are better as used cars as the issues have been worked out. fun costume! (I'm a fan of old school sci-fi/fantasy. The wife and I went to a Fathom Event last wednesday and saw Franenstein and Bride of F on the big screen. - fun, check here; http://www.fathomevents.com/ , also, I recently attended a Tugg event to see Iron Sky , but I noticed among the other titles they have, one that I am considering sponsoring myself - Jason and the Argonauts. http://www.tugg.com/ , I wish the website worked better there. ) I have one of those creepy horse masks I may take to work on the 31st;

definitely the downside to to mailorder biz - you can;t just drive back to the store and get an exchange. that sucks. What brand? maybe the factory just boxed 'em up wrong? (we've done that where i work - with embedded industrial computer boards!)

I worked with a guy that owned one for about 9 weeks. It spent more time in those 9 weeks getting warranty work done than at his house.

you might be able to get a Kartboy or Whiteline 'upgraded' after market for about what new resin (that's what we call plastic nowadays cause it doesn't sound cheap and wimpy) links from Subaru cost. They might be slightly noisier. I recently had a reason to check into front drop links due to an on-going 'discussion' with Geico about hidden (actually concealed) damage from a wreck in 2011.

I wonder. IF you had the front in the air, carefully idling in neutral, and pulled/pushed the wheels left/right, would you feel the problem? If so, disconnect the u-joint, then try again. If you still feel the problem, must be the rack or something below the joint. longshot I know but, maybe it would help. for that matter, with the wheels in the air and engine off, if you felt the problem, it may point to a mechanical issue and eliminate ANYTHING with the pump.

good job buddy! thanx for posting

interesting - would a spray like Belt-Eze help, or, at least, help diagnose slippage is the problem?