1 Lucky Texan

a long time ago, I think Johnson brothers??? had a Honda Civic with an engine/transaxle in the rear too. maybe I heard of a Smart car or some other tiny car recently built-up with a second engine?

yeah, I'm seeing a lot of stuff fail, as you say, due to age. Both our cars are low miles, but they get all the summer heat plus the abuse of secondary roads for 95% of their use. My 06 WRX only has 42K miles, but it has a split inner boot and is getting a rear wheel bearing replaced. Wife's 03 Outback has ~70K miles, but has already had all the shocks replaced, has had lca bushings replaced, split boots on both sides, every o-ring I've encountered is as hard as plastic.

I'd be tempted to pull plugs after a lengthy shut down and see if any are wet with fuel. Or find some way to hook up a fuel pressure gauge for a while and see if the rails lose pressure. maybe a leaky injector? I dunno.

crazy - plus, make me want to inspect ours.

as far as 'generate' I have no idea. pretty much, pad materials are all a bunch of compromises - do you want good modulation?, yeah, but you don't want to give up longevity. Do want great high temp operation? sure, but not if I have to give up good bite at 10degrees F. Do you want less dust? yeah, but not if it means they might squeal. Do you want the pads to last forever? Yeah, but not if they eat the rotors in 4 months. all brakes change your car's momentum into heat (plus a little dust - most from the pads, some from the rotors)) one thing is, if someone goes into a parts store and asks for the cheapest pads they have, they will sell that person crap that is scary to drive with. I could see that happening with cars right before they get sold; "give me the cheapest pads and belts you have", then, the next owner has a belt break at 25K and brakes that are gone 5K later.

how about dual engine? 3 liter front + 3 liter mid-engine?

thanx

dealership is charging $529 It's a lot of money, but probably fair. I would need 150-$200 of tools from harbor Freight to DIY it. Throw in that is before the 90-$100 parts w'ever. And I might screw it up - yeah, I'll let them do it. On the plus side, they said my 06 doesn't have the same problem with the turbo banjo bolt screen as the previous years. Downside, they found a small split on the inner DS axle boot. I might try re-booting it myself, but those boot bands, ugh, what kinda tool tightens/secures those thing? RockAuto sells a raybestos boot kit for about $10;

glad it worked but, over half of WD-40 is 'stoddard solvent' (you can think of it as a sorta deodorized kerosene) and I dunno how it could affect binders in pad material. seems risky maybe pads with different technology would help? if the pads on there now are semi-metallic, maybe switching to ceramic (like Centric posiQuiet Ceramic) or even para-aramid (StopTech Street performance) would stop the rust-welding problem.

did anyone look under the hood? Possible bad alternator. I somewhat suspect the serpentine accessory belt's idler or tensioner pulleys, or the tensioner. the previous issue sounds a little like an evap tank vent problem - or the 'venturi/siphon pump' gadget in the tank getting clogged. Ever have a 'WHOOSH' of vacuum or pressure when removing the gas cap?

that one was 3.5 liter I think. Used around 1990 in a Coloni Formula 1 car.

got mine from Amazon IIRC. Probably available locally but I was buying other stuff at the time. The bottle is probably a lifetime supply for me. There's a brush built into the lid. decent reviews and one guy seems to feel it will protect well in winter; http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top again, dunno personally how it would stand up in snow States. But 2 or 3 gurus at nasioc seem to like it. along with nipper's comment, no grease is gonna make up for rust. emery cloth/scotchbrite the surface of the pins or new slider pins might be required once a little corrosion 'bites' into the metal.

longshot but cheap enough to try I guess. good luck

I must admit I have NO IDEA how it would hold up in 'the rust belt' but, this is what was recommended on another board so, I bought some and have been using it successfully;

crank angle sensor. reads the little tabs behind the crank sprocket for the ECU to determine plug firing.

excellent. bet that's it.

this still cracks me up;

??? you replaced the inner and outer pads, were able to slip the caliper back over the rotor, and the wheel still hit the caliper? If anything, a piston that won't retract should create MORE clearance for the wheel. I think I'm missing something here.

plus, running at too low rpm leads to 'lugging' - increased pressure on bearings and increased cylinder heat.

can you be more specific about everything you did in you 'brake job'? pads only? rotors and pads? new hoses? is the problem on one side only? also, did you put on different wheels?

I have no experience with that but, pretty sure you're right. Do a search or wait for someone else to respond as there are tricks involving drilling, maybe heat, etc. to help with the pinch bolt. did you start putting penetrating oil on yet?

start daily spraying everything with penetrating oil - start last week. you might take a look at; hopefully, some rust belt guys will chime in. good luck

if it's the slide pins you have continuing problems with, maybe there's a 2-pot/4-pot swap from a WRX or ??? that could work on your car. No slide pins to rust.

I THINK it's in the tank. Does your manual's maintenance schedule mention it?