1 Lucky Texan

how about dual engine? 3 liter front + 3 liter mid-engine?

thanx

dealership is charging $529 It's a lot of money, but probably fair. I would need 150-$200 of tools from harbor Freight to DIY it. Throw in that is before the 90-$100 parts w'ever. And I might screw it up - yeah, I'll let them do it. On the plus side, they said my 06 doesn't have the same problem with the turbo banjo bolt screen as the previous years. Downside, they found a small split on the inner DS axle boot. I might try re-booting it myself, but those boot bands, ugh, what kinda tool tightens/secures those thing? RockAuto sells a raybestos boot kit for about $10;

glad it worked but, over half of WD-40 is 'stoddard solvent' (you can think of it as a sorta deodorized kerosene) and I dunno how it could affect binders in pad material. seems risky maybe pads with different technology would help? if the pads on there now are semi-metallic, maybe switching to ceramic (like Centric posiQuiet Ceramic) or even para-aramid (StopTech Street performance) would stop the rust-welding problem.

did anyone look under the hood? Possible bad alternator. I somewhat suspect the serpentine accessory belt's idler or tensioner pulleys, or the tensioner. the previous issue sounds a little like an evap tank vent problem - or the 'venturi/siphon pump' gadget in the tank getting clogged. Ever have a 'WHOOSH' of vacuum or pressure when removing the gas cap?

that one was 3.5 liter I think. Used around 1990 in a Coloni Formula 1 car.

got mine from Amazon IIRC. Probably available locally but I was buying other stuff at the time. The bottle is probably a lifetime supply for me. There's a brush built into the lid. decent reviews and one guy seems to feel it will protect well in winter; http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24125-Ceramic-Extreme-Lubricant/dp/B0018PSASU/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top again, dunno personally how it would stand up in snow States. But 2 or 3 gurus at nasioc seem to like it. along with nipper's comment, no grease is gonna make up for rust. emery cloth/scotchbrite the surface of the pins or new slider pins might be required once a little corrosion 'bites' into the metal.

longshot but cheap enough to try I guess. good luck

I must admit I have NO IDEA how it would hold up in 'the rust belt' but, this is what was recommended on another board so, I bought some and have been using it successfully;

crank angle sensor. reads the little tabs behind the crank sprocket for the ECU to determine plug firing.

excellent. bet that's it.

this still cracks me up;

??? you replaced the inner and outer pads, were able to slip the caliper back over the rotor, and the wheel still hit the caliper? If anything, a piston that won't retract should create MORE clearance for the wheel. I think I'm missing something here.

plus, running at too low rpm leads to 'lugging' - increased pressure on bearings and increased cylinder heat.

can you be more specific about everything you did in you 'brake job'? pads only? rotors and pads? new hoses? is the problem on one side only? also, did you put on different wheels?

I have no experience with that but, pretty sure you're right. Do a search or wait for someone else to respond as there are tricks involving drilling, maybe heat, etc. to help with the pinch bolt. did you start putting penetrating oil on yet?

start daily spraying everything with penetrating oil - start last week. you might take a look at; hopefully, some rust belt guys will chime in. good luck

if it's the slide pins you have continuing problems with, maybe there's a 2-pot/4-pot swap from a WRX or ??? that could work on your car. No slide pins to rust.

I THINK it's in the tank. Does your manual's maintenance schedule mention it?

this is an 03 - maybe the same;

that's an excellent price. here's my write up on the process;http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-do-yourself-illustrated-guides/48910-lower-control-arm-rear-bushing-transverse-link-replaced-prothane-03-outback.html bottom line, unless you're doing it for motorsports reason, try to stay with OEM or you will have increased harshness/'shock' from the Prothane. dunno about any other aftermarket replacement.

I seed what you did there. Did i post this in the right section? hard to concentrate this early in the morning. Maybe a shower will fill me with more zest.

I'm not happy, but I made an appointment with the dealership to get the bearing and a coupla other things done. I was assured they will use OEM parts and this way, i get a warranty and hopefully an experienced person on the job. Tools to do this myself would have cost 1.5 or more labor hours. And I might only use them onec or twice. I didn't check if they can be rented/borrowed. Plus, it's unknown territory for me. At least they will give me loaner car and will probably do in hours what would take me 2 days lol! wish I had tha HBA deal in this car.

careful;