1 Lucky Texan

got some 8mm and some 10mm push retainers coming from Amazon. 20 pcs each $3.88 and $3.89 Amico brand, free shipping! hope they are decent quality. Hope the 10s will work (they look different)but, they were cheap. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00976LHRI/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i01

I think I shall reward your post with this; GIFSoup

mask - it's only to fool the ecu, like the spacer/anti-fouler 'trick'.

Ivan, I can't recall if you mentioned trying it, but here's an 'electronic' fix that works for some folks; http://www.scoobymods.com/showthread.php/mod-eletronic-cel-fix-04-3768.html?t=3768

I've dug around enough to realize that a decent looking assortment kit is around $30 (and probably half the parts you'd never use) so, getting the calipers out and just measuring the diameter of what I need to replace, then getting something close locally, is probably the most practical way to go. It would be cool if there was a $10-$15 bag of 3-5 each of 2-3 push retainers that are Soob specific. But that's just too much to ask evidently. That link is good and the prices are OK (dunno about shipping) - I have 2 soobs to maintain so, getting $20 worth of the 2 most common styles might be worth it. For certain, if you were PLANNING a project that required fender liner, interior or other clips to be removed, just go ahead and get them from a dealer or a link like the above, you're gonna need them.

OK, I admit I haven't shopped around for them but, are there aftermarket plastic pop-up rivets that will work as replacements on our cars? Almost every time I remove those things, a leg or 2 snaps off. I JUST was examining my 06 WRX - trying to figure out how to change a parking light bulb. I decided to move the washer fluid fill tube outta the way and its rivet snapped 3 of the 4 'legs' off. I think the heat in Texas just destroys them in a 3-4 years. has someone got a variety pack that works well for Soobs or do you just buy different diameters - and how many 'styles' are there?

ask him if he is willing to refund at least the labor if the same code comes back twice in 3 months. And save your old cat. anybody can throw parts at a car. Converters DO go bad, but MANY people have solved p0420 (is that the code?) with much cheaper fixes than a new cat. For that kinda money, probably worth having a second opinion. maybe someone here can suggest a shop near Westford.

some folks will mix their own fuel, using xylene or toluene to boost octane - but they are running a lot of boost or have higher compression engines than stock. Low compression NA will not see any benefit. (except perhaps one that has a lot of carbon build up)

would JDM turbo 2 liter pistons be closer?

Some folks say the vlsd is worn out aftter 65K miles - dunno. That bean probably does have one. We have a 03 H6 (not ll bean) with weather package and it is viscous. Sounds like it also has a diff cover so, that's kinda cool. I think that's an $80 or more accessory - maybe $180 - i don't recall. Supposedly, there are codes on top of the diff, next to the body, that will tell you if they are viscous/open and what the final drive ratio is. And that is probably the biggest issue - matching the rear's ratio with your front diff's ratio.

maybe a crank angle sensor is getting intermittent with temperature? maybe scan for pending codes after an 'event' - intermittent stuff may need to happen twice within a short period to set the CEL, but single occurrences would be stored for a little while as 'pending'.

fuel pressure/flow good? you said 'choked' but after re-reading, yeah, maybe it's starving for fuel after the pressure drops? maybe wire around the ecu control to the fuel pump with direct 12v and see if it stays running? maybe someone else will chime in with an idea.

maybe pull plugs and look for a wet one? perhaps thers some flooding from a bad injector?

I think one thing that commonly causes this is the connection under the intake that's for the big hose to the IACV.

I've seen that happen once. Caught it before in unlatched the seat.

triple check the PCV and breather hoses for misrouting. something wonky with the evap system or possibly fuel related? weird

off topic but, this is the most fun explanation of a differential;

yeah - first I heard of this, plus, aren't some newer pistons having cracked land problems? Dunno that WRX would be an upgrade.

so awesome! I'm gonna award you one of these; GIFSoup

I've read some folks will over-inflate the small tire and under-inflate the others - but that is also less than ideal to possibly dangerous.

maybe check the u-joint going down to the rack? like number 10 in this drawing (yours might be different); dunno

when you say on top, would I need a mirror to see these? how big is the lettering?

it may not be, but unless you can look at the freezeframe data to see if the fuel trims are outta whack - you may not know. The MAF or MAP is also involved in setting the A:F, and poor ignition can spit out HCs so, low compression, bad plugs, bad plug wires, vacuum leaks, etc. Soobs are picky about some parts. Plugs NGK, plug wires OEM, front O2 Denso - if the mechanic tried to cut any corners - that could lead to part of the problem. maybe someone could recommend a mechanic in your area that would help you pin down where the problem is.

my concern would be that the cat is just trying to deal with a problem from 'upstream'. If you're running rich, or sucking in a lot of oil thru the PCV system, etc. - the cat will try to burn-off the xtra HCs. That could be one reason it seemed excessively hot.

here's the whole thing;