1 Lucky Texan

I just don't know, sorry. If it is, 80mm should be good (figuring in wall thickness)

I would say it isn't mirror image. if there were LH and RH parts, they would be labeled that way (as in other places in diagrams - like suspension parts; http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_30/brake_system/rear_brake/illustration_3/ HOWEVER, if the adjuster 'assembly' is simply installed facing the opposite way, (say - front to back on the right/back to front on the left) they could both be made to operate in such a way that moving the star wheel upwards will tighten the shoes. This how I would design a system so I had fewer specialized parts. maybe try to take a rubbing with paper and pencil/crayon to see if the arrows are there. But if the system is original, or it was rebuilt and put together correctly, the adjusters should both tighten with upwards adjustment. there's pic in this thread of what appears to be the left rear; http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f68/parking-brake-adjustment-100178/ (I'm calling 'inside' meaning working from between the wheels - behind the backing plate OK?) as you can see, moving the star wheel 'nut' upwards from the inside (thru the slot) would expand the distance. Notice the threaded 'stud' portion is facing the front of the car. If, on the other (right side) of the car, the threaded stud part of the assembly were installed facing the rear of the car, then an upwards movement of the star, from inside of the backing plate, will still expand the assembly. Of course, I assume that most soobs with this system are built the same way.

I just think; if there's a car that was working, lost a heat shield, and started throwing 420 codes immediately - then was repaired with some heat wrap or a replacement shield - and afterwards started NOT throwing 420 codes, that that car is likely going to have another problem related to A/F within weeks. Maybe I just need more education but I doubt the heat shields are a significant part of the cat function. There must be 100s of thousands of cars that have had various heat shields rust away/fall off on the roads with no significant reduction in exhaust system emissions function.

yeah, pretty unlikely, just trying to dream up some way the exhaust would be too cool. IIRC in the 'old days' there was a cadillac that pumped fresh air in the with the exhaust to dilute the pollutant concentration to pass tailpipe tests. cheaters lol!

how does the catalyst reaction get shut down? too lean? too rich? Seems like it's an a/f thing more than ambient air temps. Don't' these cars work at -30F as well as 113F? Not saying some control of the system to normalize temps wouldn't be ideal, but it seems it would be much too sensitive if the loss of a heat shield caused a problem. I'd think you'd pop 420 codes on every rainy day with cool water splashing up on the exhaust.

how cold is it in summer where you are? I kinda don't see how ambient temps have much to do with this. Those heat shields are partly to prevent hot exhaust parts from setting fire to grass if the car is parked off-pavement. Also to shield nearby stuff like oil filters, wires, cables w'ever. if an exhaust leak is acting like a venturi and sucking in cold air, fix the leak? I dunno

try a search - I think it's called the oil filter adapter and folks have had to re-seal it. maybe yours is like this? ;http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_38/lubrication_system/oil_cooler_engine/illustration_1/ not uncommon, I suppose there are other possibilities. Are you sure it's oil and not old power steering fluid?

you might dig around or ask here; http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=367808&highlight=axles

dig around here for some dimensions/info http://www.greddy.com/products/airinx/airinx-parts/

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1088016&highlight=star+gaskets#post1088016

if you need and can determine there's a way to use them, I have the stock springs off my 06 WRX wagon. less than 1900 miles on them. $50 plus shipping. What everyone said about KYB struts is right on. Check RockAuto and even Amazon for prices. And , at the age of your car, you may need to refresh the strut mounts at the top and inspect/replace some bushings underneath the car, inspect ball joints too. Good time to inspect the axle boots too, lots of labor overlaps for several related parts.

I can't recall if they are different, but there are arrows on the backplates of our 03 OBW.

it may be that some come with a wax or something that is unlikely to interfere with pad material - dunno. what you have or can 'get away with' is different than 'best practices'. I clean 'em.

More like LL EJ ! amirite?

maybe call a coupla parts stores. My Innova scanner is around 8 years old and it will capture FF data. maybe the scanner at you local parts store can get the fuel trim data.

does it show the same side? If so, what about swapping sides with front sensors? also, does the scanner you're using have freezeframe data? fuel trims are also broken down by banks (IIRC) and if one bank's trims are are a lot different, could point to a bad plug or injector if the sensors aren't the problm. sorry, all I have is speculation to offer. But converters are expensive and more experienced folks than me all say the converters are sturdy so, it's worth saving that as a last ditch approach.

several of the vacuum lines will only send the Saefoam through 1 or 2 intake runners. The one in your vid SEEMS to be fairly centrally located but - I think the throttle body method using the spray already suggested is best.

low refrigerant pressure will shut it off. gaugeswould confirm that - dunno if the self diagnostic would. maybe the low pressure sensor is bad?

It isn't common, but perfectly possible to jump a tooth or 2 and still run, poorly. And of course, it would be expected to throw codes as well. But, not necessary to pull heads yet - just the timing covers. As to what you do first - it's a dice toss but, if the tensioner is weak or the belt old and stretched, the possibility of a catastrophic failure is hanging over your head. If you do sensors, plugs, wires etc. They will go to waste if the belt slips/breaks during a test drive of that work.

makes me wonder if the Genisys is measuring in microbars or some other scale.

winner!

maybe re-work the inside of those old gear-hub reducers from the 70s to reverse direction at the wheel? problem is, probably not a good ratio for driving on the road.

for further diagnostics, could you swap the sensors side-to-side? Might help pin down the problem to some weird burned/sticking valve, odd breather/vacuum issue or bad converter, - vs, a bad sensor.

yeah, ecu could have had the car in limp mode. That feels like dead turbo. But I'd expect the CEL would be on. otherwise - what ^^^ they all said.

where were these stones? Between the rim and the rotor?