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1 Lucky Texan

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Everything posted by 1 Lucky Texan

  1. how cold is it in summer where you are? I kinda don't see how ambient temps have much to do with this. Those heat shields are partly to prevent hot exhaust parts from setting fire to grass if the car is parked off-pavement. Also to shield nearby stuff like oil filters, wires, cables w'ever. if an exhaust leak is acting like a venturi and sucking in cold air, fix the leak? I dunno
  2. try a search - I think it's called the oil filter adapter and folks have had to re-seal it. maybe yours is like this? ;http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b12/type_38/lubrication_system/oil_cooler_engine/illustration_1/ not uncommon, I suppose there are other possibilities. Are you sure it's oil and not old power steering fluid?
  3. you might dig around or ask here; http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=367808&highlight=axles
  4. dig around here for some dimensions/info http://www.greddy.com/products/airinx/airinx-parts/
  5. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1088016&highlight=star+gaskets#post1088016
  6. if you need and can determine there's a way to use them, I have the stock springs off my 06 WRX wagon. less than 1900 miles on them. $50 plus shipping. What everyone said about KYB struts is right on. Check RockAuto and even Amazon for prices. And , at the age of your car, you may need to refresh the strut mounts at the top and inspect/replace some bushings underneath the car, inspect ball joints too. Good time to inspect the axle boots too, lots of labor overlaps for several related parts.
  7. I can't recall if they are different, but there are arrows on the backplates of our 03 OBW.
  8. it may be that some come with a wax or something that is unlikely to interfere with pad material - dunno. what you have or can 'get away with' is different than 'best practices'. I clean 'em.
  9. maybe call a coupla parts stores. My Innova scanner is around 8 years old and it will capture FF data. maybe the scanner at you local parts store can get the fuel trim data.
  10. does it show the same side? If so, what about swapping sides with front sensors? also, does the scanner you're using have freezeframe data? fuel trims are also broken down by banks (IIRC) and if one bank's trims are are a lot different, could point to a bad plug or injector if the sensors aren't the problm. sorry, all I have is speculation to offer. But converters are expensive and more experienced folks than me all say the converters are sturdy so, it's worth saving that as a last ditch approach.
  11. several of the vacuum lines will only send the Saefoam through 1 or 2 intake runners. The one in your vid SEEMS to be fairly centrally located but - I think the throttle body method using the spray already suggested is best.
  12. low refrigerant pressure will shut it off. gaugeswould confirm that - dunno if the self diagnostic would. maybe the low pressure sensor is bad?
  13. It isn't common, but perfectly possible to jump a tooth or 2 and still run, poorly. And of course, it would be expected to throw codes as well. But, not necessary to pull heads yet - just the timing covers. As to what you do first - it's a dice toss but, if the tensioner is weak or the belt old and stretched, the possibility of a catastrophic failure is hanging over your head. If you do sensors, plugs, wires etc. They will go to waste if the belt slips/breaks during a test drive of that work.
  14. maybe re-work the inside of those old gear-hub reducers from the 70s to reverse direction at the wheel? problem is, probably not a good ratio for driving on the road.
  15. for further diagnostics, could you swap the sensors side-to-side? Might help pin down the problem to some weird burned/sticking valve, odd breather/vacuum issue or bad converter, - vs, a bad sensor.
  16. yeah, ecu could have had the car in limp mode. That feels like dead turbo. But I'd expect the CEL would be on. otherwise - what ^^^ they all said.
  17. probably need to pick up a new axle nut. Hope that's all there is wrong, but you probably need to have a back-up plan, The axle probably has some type of warranty. personally, I've had zero problems with the EMPI axle I put on the wife's car. $10-$15 more than a rebuilt - but new. supposedly, dealerships have rebuilds that are QCed/cherry picked to a higher standard. MWE has soob rebuilds and is highly respected. If it becomes really confusing what the source of the vibration is - try swapping axles left-to-right.
  18. one other thing, did you torque the axle nut with the weight of the car on the tire? It's recommended to torque the axle with the hub in the air. back-up the rotor with a big screwdriver in the 'vanes' and against the caliper. but many people have complained about vibration from rebuilt axles as GG mentioned.
  19. did the d'stick's tube get bent during the swap? this seems very odd.
  20. I think there are no Lexus in Japan, that line was created for US marketing reasons. Maybe Infiniti too? I've often thought Subaru should do something similar - break out the 'Legacy' plate as a separate, 'upscale' line(Tribeca, Outbacks - and maybe a 'luxury' Forester and BRZ?) as a sorta Lexus-type maneuver. Run the name 'Subaru' for the Crosstrek, WRX/STI, maybe a downscale Forester and the other Imprezas. Then, bring over the R1s or design some FWD/Electric/maybe hybrid subcompacts and name them 'Fuji' (to compete with the Scion - type line of vehicles). the reason, so I've read, that the Lexus line was created, was so folks didn't feel 'cheated' paying 35K for "a little Toyota". Japanese cars had the reputation of being small and cheap. Nobody wants to feel they paid Rolex money for a Timex watch. There could have been a vehicle brought over from Japan or Europe with Toyota badges, or someone might have re-badged their Scion.
  21. I just saw that commercial. It doesn't mention Toyota, and 'maybe' it's saying it's the first boxer with that special injection/ D4S and direct injection tech. w'ever. I'm not sure though - there's a LONG pause between the different statements.
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