1 Lucky Texan

wouldn't it have a Scion badge? supposedly there will be about 5000 Subaru BRZs available, and about twice that many Scion FRSes so, I'd expect they are easier to order/get and will be spotted more often.

yeah, 9 year old pads - time for new ones and a brake flush I'd think.

you could try swapping tires frt/rr as an experiment. inspect the brakes/brake calipers I guess. sometimes a pebble will get caught between the dust shield and rear side of the rotor. just some ideas.

hmmm....wrong axle? Are there enough threads for a another nut? maybe use a second nut as a jam nut and stake it down. (I have NO IDEA how much torque you'd need on the second nut, I doubt you'd need the full 150 w'ever) I don't think I understood the problem first time.

^^^ great advice. I think if you like the car and it fits your intended use, you don't expect blinding acceleration from a stop or more than 25-26mpg highway, it's a great choice. Since you've been watching it, tell them that, then try to get them to throw in a powertrain warranty. Shoot for a year or more, settle for 6 months w'ever. negotiate. If they really feel good about the car's engine and transmission, it won't cost them anything, but could mean a lot to you if you discover torque bind or CV axle/driveshaft vibration later.

are you torquing with the weight of the car on the wheel? Keep weight off that corner, put a big screwdriver in the rotor vanes, snug up against the caliper, then torque a NEW axle nut to - maybe 60 ftlbs, give the rotor a spin, secure the screwdriver again, torque to maybe 120 ftlbs or so, spin the rotor again, then final torque to final spec. Then stake the new nut into the slot. I put a thin layer of greas on the splines, but don't get any on the threads.

you might try the TX section of nasioc. You are definitely in for some 'culture shock'.

wait for someone here to confirm but I think, you want the arrow(piston position mark) to be at either 3:00 position (ideal) OR 9:00 position, whichever is closer. But, don't cross 12:00 or 6:00 until the cams are aligned). Then. later when you reassemble, you may have to move it again after the cams are lined up. anyone?

don't slow up on oil changes either as you may be getting a lot of fuel blowby into the oil. Synthetics will always be darker than traditional oils as they keep 'varnish' in suspension better. maybe even cleaning varnish from inside the engine.

he has at least 2 posts on the same subject. that code is associated with the cold start emissions air pump/'air cut' system. (the system that replaced the front cat conv. - prolly didn't exist for soobs before 06 or so.) ********************************************************************************************************************** ********************************************************************************************************************** P2444 Secondary AIR System Pump Stuck On Possible Causes * Check the operation of the secondary AIR pump relay * Check the secondary AIR pump relay for a short to ground condition * AIR combination valve has failed * PCM has failed Setting Conditions Engine running; Secondary AIR system active, and the PCM detected a problem in the operation of the Secondary AIR Pump (it may be stuck "on"). This code sets in 1 Trip(s). This code will turn on the MIL (Malfunction Indicator Lamp) ******************************************************************************************************************* ******************************************************************************************************************* see - http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=134653

I just dunno if your car has hydraulic valve adjusters or not. If it has the 'bucket' /solid lifters, after a lot of miles ( 120K? 150K?) the valve seats can wear and the valves may not be closing alll the way. Not sure if you mentioned the mileage or other car details. Here, a 98 would be OBDII and I was wondering if the check engine light was on, and codes retrieved, it may help with diagnosis. The link you have is one of many types of code readers. Maybe someone knows if you can get a 'blink' code from your car.

I had to read this twice.

TPS can def cause symptoms similar to yours. Some other things to consider; valve adjustment plug wires (if aftermarkets were installed when the coil pack was put on, replace them with Subaru wires - many people have problems with 3rd party plug wires) Engine Temp Sensor (since you mentioned a difference with temp) are there any codes stored?

possible Engine Temp sensor (might be part of the same unit for the gauge in this year model) since it seems temp related.

first thing is to just clear this code and see if it returns quickly. Sometimes you get spurious codes that may never re-occur. Second, look under the hood for a black plastic circular part, driver's side. (the thing on the right side shown in these images); Now, on a 'cool' car (first thing in the morning, or parked long enough to be below operating temperature) place your hand on the pump while someone else starts the car. You should be able to feel the pump operate for 20-40 seconds. If it doesn't, it may be bad or there is a bad relay or fuse keeping it from coming on. If it never goes off, could be a bad relay, a bad sensor in the valve or ????? This pump is part of a system that replaced a front cat conv on previous models. The pump and its 2 valves are only used for a few seconds to help with cold running emissions. This system has been a problem for many folks including myself. i had both valves stick closed. Eventually had to overwrite my ECU ROM to kill 16 codes after pulling some fuses. If you are a DIYer, and can confirm what parts you need, there are folks pulling these systems out and used pumps/valves/sensors may be available. The valves are a b!tch to replace - particularly one of them. The pump should be easy. some folks have contacted SOA and they have authorized ealerships to do a 'goodwill warranty' by splitting/reducing the cost. you can read a lot more at; http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1923168 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=26954495&highlight=2444#post26954495 http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?p=37442351#post37442351

fair points - that ad doesn't seem to really say what is in that diff - I think it claims be 'like' a torsen so, I dunno also, used parts if that guy can get over $400 for a used diff, should give you an idea where a decent price point might be for this one.

saw this in another thread; http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-WRX-BRAT-R160-Rear-LSD-AP-Racing-SureTrac-Adaptable-to-the-510-/360472164032?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item53edd0b6c0&vxp=mtr

I know this may come off as an insult, but, hopefully, no one told you it's a left-hand thread. it's lefty-loosey like the other side. I once owned a '48 Willys Fleetvan that had left-hand thread lugnuts on one side of the vehicle.

well, to get an idea of maintenance, you might look at the schedules for older turbo equipped vehicles at www.cars101.com should be quite similar.

I guess it isn't clear if the OP is buying new or used. might wanna check insurance rates between the 2 before you decide on an STI for a 21 year-old male.

yeah, the problem with inexpensive sports cars is who gets them and how do they drive and maintain their vehicles. That said, I bought my 06 WRX wagon in my 50s ! if you're looking for a project car, I guess almost any of them would be OK. Personally, 06-07 WRX would be decent. Some folks really don't like the samurai face, pignose, flying va-jay-jay look of the front but, mechanically they're awesome stock and have lots of potential for upgrades. yes. I'm biased.

drive it off? like, breaker bar/cheater pipe on the ground and gun it in reverse.

the conditioner only helps, and is only promoted for, external 'weeping' of coolant. I don't think it will harm anything if used appropriately. I have heard of people using other products for bad HGs - I'm just skeptical it works very often or for a long time. Combustion chamber pressures are much higher than cooling system pressures and I doubt any high-tech substance in the coolant can even be deposited where it needs to go.

this sounds about right, and it may be related to some vague memory I have of some early 4EATs needing a steel sleeve replacement kit instead of the aluminum one in some part of the wet clutchpack system. maybe someone else knows more about that.

I don't think that will work at all. did you mean engine oil?