1 Lucky Texan

yeah, the problem with inexpensive sports cars is who gets them and how do they drive and maintain their vehicles. That said, I bought my 06 WRX wagon in my 50s ! if you're looking for a project car, I guess almost any of them would be OK. Personally, 06-07 WRX would be decent. Some folks really don't like the samurai face, pignose, flying va-jay-jay look of the front but, mechanically they're awesome stock and have lots of potential for upgrades. yes. I'm biased.

drive it off? like, breaker bar/cheater pipe on the ground and gun it in reverse.

the conditioner only helps, and is only promoted for, external 'weeping' of coolant. I don't think it will harm anything if used appropriately. I have heard of people using other products for bad HGs - I'm just skeptical it works very often or for a long time. Combustion chamber pressures are much higher than cooling system pressures and I doubt any high-tech substance in the coolant can even be deposited where it needs to go.

this sounds about right, and it may be related to some vague memory I have of some early 4EATs needing a steel sleeve replacement kit instead of the aluminum one in some part of the wet clutchpack system. maybe someone else knows more about that.

I don't think that will work at all. did you mean engine oil?

if the part on the right ran out of threads before the gasket contacts, I could see it being a problem. Doubt this is likely but......?

so sad

does the car actually run/idle well? running very rich should be black smoke - but if unburned fuel is being pumped out in a vapor, that could very well be white i guess. maybe bad coil? or, as I guess you suspect, bad injector?

possible slipped TB?

many codes will clear after several drivecycles if they do not reoccur. I've had a weak battery cause spurious codes on the wife's OBW, and recently i had a scare with my WRX but the codes never repeated. Also, on older vehicles, you could have dicey/intermittent grounds/cables,connectors that might create a false code.

also, look in the tank while idling for foam/bubbles. Could be the suction line is sucking in air.

are you running different size, model, brand or have mixed new and worn tires? if so, remedy that first. otherwise - yeah, what ^^^ they said.

acoustic coupling and damping is crazy stuff. I worked on some acoustic downhole instruments for a while (as a tech) in the wireline biz. We had to put some crazy bends in some tubing, add steel/lead cylinders of a certain dimension, couple things together with rubber bushing between everything - slide all that into a steel sleeve with slots cut out of it, all in an attempt to slow down and suppress the sound of the xmitter coming down the through the tool itself so formation travel time could be measured. fun stuff. The point made about about the frequency being detected is good, as is concerns about mods/changes to the engi ne configuration. With my luck though, if I moved it, the a/c clutch or some clunky brake/clutch linkage, or a relay would probably create false knock impulses. Or some worn out acc. belt bearing would mask the real knock sound or otherwise work to my disadvantage. I'd put it back where 'they' had it.

nvrmd - well covered above

gosh I....I hope I can hang on long enough to witness that glorious day! :cool:

good point. if someone isn't planning on replacing it properly, cheaper to do the resister trick than buy a sensor and relocate it to where it's ineffective.

pic of new location? If I understand correctly, you could just add the new one to the new location and move the connector over right?

ebay deal is a little cheaper than the Dorman box of 10 I'm still working on. http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-095-142-Drain-Plug-Gasket/dp/B001SNRGAA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341245887&sr=8-1&keywords=dorman+subaru+washer+gasket+oil but, if I was really packing on the miles, Fumoto would be the way to go.

it may just take a little time. after all, SVX owners are here.

the story that came with those pics (dunno if it's true) was that the lady only stopped after a hole poked in the tank by a wire-end, draining the fuel, forced her to the side of the road. She evidently told the tow truck driver she "felt a little vibration" after running over a mattress.

I understand, - recently used 'regular' seafoam on my WRX - I used the vacuum line off of the BPV on the 'front' of the TMIC. But, some folks say it only gets thru 2 intake runners so - I dunno. like you, I'm reluctant to engage in a huge amount of fiddly dis-assembly. I may have to eventually, but for now, my car seems to be OK.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vqs8QWvssmg

yeah, luckier than than this lady;

If you had filled up, then reported stalling within a few blocks/miles (???) afterwards, perhaps water in the gas 'might' be at fault. but 35 miles+ after filling up - seems unlikely to have been bad gas. did the CEL come on? even if it didn't, there might be a pending code. Try to get the OBDII system read with a scanner for codes. If you can also get freezframe data, fuel trims might be interesting to look at. any rain or driven through a puddle? maybe moisture splashed onto cracked spark plug cables.

good point on the sparkplug cables. You could try using a water spray/mist bottle under the hood at night. Spray the coil and plug cables and monitor for sparks, missing idle. Subaru dealer is best for replacements. many reports of problems with other brand cables.