1 Lucky Texan

if the part on the right ran out of threads before the gasket contacts, I could see it being a problem. Doubt this is likely but......?

so sad

does the car actually run/idle well? running very rich should be black smoke - but if unburned fuel is being pumped out in a vapor, that could very well be white i guess. maybe bad coil? or, as I guess you suspect, bad injector?

possible slipped TB?

many codes will clear after several drivecycles if they do not reoccur. I've had a weak battery cause spurious codes on the wife's OBW, and recently i had a scare with my WRX but the codes never repeated. Also, on older vehicles, you could have dicey/intermittent grounds/cables,connectors that might create a false code.

also, look in the tank while idling for foam/bubbles. Could be the suction line is sucking in air.

are you running different size, model, brand or have mixed new and worn tires? if so, remedy that first. otherwise - yeah, what ^^^ they said.

acoustic coupling and damping is crazy stuff. I worked on some acoustic downhole instruments for a while (as a tech) in the wireline biz. We had to put some crazy bends in some tubing, add steel/lead cylinders of a certain dimension, couple things together with rubber bushing between everything - slide all that into a steel sleeve with slots cut out of it, all in an attempt to slow down and suppress the sound of the xmitter coming down the through the tool itself so formation travel time could be measured. fun stuff. The point made about about the frequency being detected is good, as is concerns about mods/changes to the engi ne configuration. With my luck though, if I moved it, the a/c clutch or some clunky brake/clutch linkage, or a relay would probably create false knock impulses. Or some worn out acc. belt bearing would mask the real knock sound or otherwise work to my disadvantage. I'd put it back where 'they' had it.

nvrmd - well covered above

gosh I....I hope I can hang on long enough to witness that glorious day! :cool:

good point. if someone isn't planning on replacing it properly, cheaper to do the resister trick than buy a sensor and relocate it to where it's ineffective.

pic of new location? If I understand correctly, you could just add the new one to the new location and move the connector over right?

ebay deal is a little cheaper than the Dorman box of 10 I'm still working on. http://www.amazon.com/Dorman-095-142-Drain-Plug-Gasket/dp/B001SNRGAA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341245887&sr=8-1&keywords=dorman+subaru+washer+gasket+oil but, if I was really packing on the miles, Fumoto would be the way to go.

it may just take a little time. after all, SVX owners are here.

the story that came with those pics (dunno if it's true) was that the lady only stopped after a hole poked in the tank by a wire-end, draining the fuel, forced her to the side of the road. She evidently told the tow truck driver she "felt a little vibration" after running over a mattress.

I understand, - recently used 'regular' seafoam on my WRX - I used the vacuum line off of the BPV on the 'front' of the TMIC. But, some folks say it only gets thru 2 intake runners so - I dunno. like you, I'm reluctant to engage in a huge amount of fiddly dis-assembly. I may have to eventually, but for now, my car seems to be OK.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vqs8QWvssmg

yeah, luckier than than this lady;

If you had filled up, then reported stalling within a few blocks/miles (???) afterwards, perhaps water in the gas 'might' be at fault. but 35 miles+ after filling up - seems unlikely to have been bad gas. did the CEL come on? even if it didn't, there might be a pending code. Try to get the OBDII system read with a scanner for codes. If you can also get freezframe data, fuel trims might be interesting to look at. any rain or driven through a puddle? maybe moisture splashed onto cracked spark plug cables.

good point on the sparkplug cables. You could try using a water spray/mist bottle under the hood at night. Spray the coil and plug cables and monitor for sparks, missing idle. Subaru dealer is best for replacements. many reports of problems with other brand cables.

have it scanned for pending codes. maybe you have a sticking valve. seems unlikely to be a TB issue since it's intermettent. might be good to put a vacuum gauge on it and start moving pushing pulling on hoses and harness bundles. If you can make it stumble, then investigaet for cracked vacuum lines. If vacuum is steady and it stumbles, look for loose connectors, bad wires, etc. has the car generally been well cared for? plugs and fluids changed per schedule, etc. ?

this is a thread posted by a guy putting the EE20 in boats; http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=125146&highlight=boxeer

oh yeah, I thoght he meant as an option in a vehicle. check here; www.boxeer.com there's also a coupla vids on youtube of one swapped into a *OOPS!* - yeah, I thinks it's a Vanagon.

I think fairtax has a great post. but cnydauve raise the question - somewhere there is a pressure sensor that must tell the pump to shut off. maybe it's 'on' and shuts the pump off too soon or at too low pressure. Might be worth pulling some plugs to see if an injector is leaking/stuck open. where's mccracken, he needs to come back until we ...................... . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . RELEASE MCCRACKEN !!!!

I don't keep up with Subaru News & Rumors but, due to diesel emissions regulations and maybe other reasons, I doubt there are plans to bring it to the US. They sell fairly well I think overseas. maybe 20% of sales in Australia.