1 Lucky Texan

Wife just bought a 2021 CRV EX. Wondering what Forum would be good to join. Also, any good on-line dealers for accessories/parts? tia

from what I have read, and been told independently, most remanufactured axles have had grinding done to wear surfaces to remove pits, galling,irregularities, etc.. That grinding reduces or removes the case hardening . Then, they have cheap, oversize bearings put in, cheap grease applied, then, usually a cheap boot put on. Could they last? maybe, but they are risky.

sounds like a charging issue - the build-up on the post is most likely due to the battery's electorlye being stressed/boild and out-gassing too much. there are 'load boxes' and newer electronic gadgets that can help simulate loads on the system and measure voltage etc. Probably no charge to test it at local parts store (go midweek if possibble when they aren't slammed for time.) IF you do need an alternator, come back here and ask about the best way to get one. Most here would advise to AVOID typical parts store rebuilt units.

when it's clutch time on my WRX I've been thinking about a lighter clutch, but not super light, maybe just the next step down from stock. Evidently it can sometimes be tricky driving?

the WRX and other morosports guys often use camber plates, and sometimes higher 'eccentricity' camber bolts to increase negative camber.

If the lenses allow water in, that would certainly be bad. is the charging systems OK? what's the voltage at idle, when revving ? is there any aftermarket gear in the car? remote start or CB radio, etc.? Is the car used for jump starting some other equipment?

near Portland - http://superiorsoobie.com/ I can only dream about having a shop like that nearby.

one thing that may help, refresh any/all ground wires. There may be some low in the front that are important for lighting. There is a lampp that ends in -LL for long life, perhaps a Philips??? or panasonic????, any way, when you buy bulbs , all of them that claim to be brighter, will have shorter life spans. if any of the bulbs on your 2012 are 9005 or maybe 9006? there is a 'hack' to use HIR bulbs. I dunno if you will get more longevity though. here's one link that may explain it; https://www.toyota-4runner.org/5th-gen-t4rs/150621-how-headlight-bulb-conversion-h11-h9-9005-9011-a-4.html

keep/get a resonator, then a tip-turn-down for axle back. probably can find turn down tip audio on youtube.

paging @GeneralDisorder

If you are buying other stuff, a 'trick' at RA to save on shipping is to choose stuff (hoses, clamps, radiator cap or thermostat, etc.) that all comes from the same warehouse. As for Amazon, I have had good luck with car parts from there. It's good that you are being careful and asking questions because it is very disheartening to deal with 'mailorder' returns. I sometimes don't mind paying some extra for a local biz to get my money. They often give better advice, will pull parts for you to measure/compare with at the counter, can often order the same stuff as an online store and sometimes match prices if you ask.

RockAuto's shipping prices sometimes make a bargain seem less so. Maybe see what comes up in an Amazon list for your vehicle. If there's agreement on the part numbers, get the less expensive one? The issue with both of the above sources, is what to do if there's an issue and you need to return something. RA returns can be trickier than Amazon, but both are trickier than going back down to your local NAPA or Advance Auto for a return or exchange. OH, just remembered, in the past, Advance Auto has offered a very good cash-back/dsicount on first time customers of their ONLINE sales, that may be worth investigating too. Ebay may be another route worth checking into. I did have a coworker that had a problem with a rad delivered from an ebay purchase. It was not packaged well and arrived damaged. He had to send some photos back and multiple emails but it worked-out in the end. I have only bought 1 rad. It was for my WRX and I got it from RA it was a Denso. Smooth transaction. Others here likely have much more experience with this than me.

oops, slow typing

runt he impact in the TIGHTEN direction a little, then loosen, maybe alternate a few times - just to see if that helps bust it loose. A little heat, followed by carefully (no fires please) spraying with penetrant could work. as it cools, the penetrant may get pulled in deeper. just a coupla ideas.

so, it was a vacuum leak at the FPR - or was there also fuel? anyway, not sure I was right, but glad it led to finding the problem!

others may have better, more extensive suggestions, but finding a Denso or Koyo radiator would be good. If a local parts house can't get you one, try RockAuto or Amazon, etc.

If you are gonna install a different used tank, make sure all the evap stuff is clear/working - that's what that was about above. and, OT but, this guy might have some parts you could use; https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/gen2-parts-rotors-inner-tie-rods-spring-seats-exhaust-gaskets-wiper-tank-airbag-etc.532082/

If possible, make sure any vents built into the top of the tank are not stuck. I THINK there aren't any until later models but, just in case....don't wanna find out on the first fill that it only takes fuel at a glacial pace.

after it sits, pull some plugs and look for the wet cylinder.

checked the top of the struts for oil?

dunno about northern border shipping or if there's room for negotiation on price, but I just saw this on - ahem - 'another forum'; https://www.subaruoutback.org/threads/rallitek-overload-springs-rear-fits-2000-2004-ob.531827/

ouch a quick look at one site here shows prices from the $40s to the $80s ??? maybe 4 vs 6 cylinder but ?????

sorry your thread turned into such a 'train wreck'.

worked with a guy with railroad experience, used thermite packs for welding rails.

^^^^ that reminds me.... Jonathan, I don't recall you saying, but I'm betting you've swapped struts before? If not, the only gotchas are, making sure the top 'perch'/hat maintains its orientation. There may be an arrow or hole that should point to the fender or just scratch or mark it before removal. And, there is an asymmetrical spacer (thick washer) that is domed or conical. The narrow side goes UP against the bottom of the bearing in the mount. From reading only, seems like a lot of risk getting away from KYB for a strut. The only mounts I bought so far, was some group N from an online dealer into my WRX, the rubber cracked on one side. They cost as much as the strut! Before you think; "well, I'l just run these old original mounts", take one off and spin it around a finger, shouldn't be a crunchy feeling bearing.... How are the KYB mounts? I've read some folks use thos in place of OEM. Not sure about a non-OEM spring with stock characteristics. Springs from a dealer are not priced outrageously. King and Rallitek springs seem to be favorites for special applicatons. (lifts,drops or w'ever)