1 Lucky Texan

OK thanx I will report back after w'ever I do. I have to get something done for it this weekend. ugh

got diagram or pic?

so, a vacuum line T and extra hose might be all I need?

well, I have drive-by-wire but, I suppose i can get a helper or, as you allude, maybe I can 'sip' the cleaner slowly enough to not stall the engine untill I've gotten a fair amount into the intake. if this solvent/cleaner trick doesn't work, I've already checked out a TGV delete kit from KSTech. And, since there would be major (for me) disassembly anyway, I'd probably also get the block-off plates for my non-functioning air cut valves too. Already had to remove those DTCs last year. Just left the valves and air pump in place since the valves were stuck closed. Probably take the opportunity to do some other stuff too. Silicone hoses and uppipe and....and....and.... ha!

never tried the seafoam. (I have read about folks using it) Decades ago, I've used berryman's B12 chemtool on carburetor cars. I suppose even with my WRX, I would use the brake booster line????

some brief searching seems to point to a problem with the tumble generator valves. A lot of folks seem to delete these but, it looks like major disassembly. i dunno, I may have to find a local mech to help me with this one.

Yep. my OBDII scanner gets used by other people more than on my own cars, but, this morning, I put it in my car to help a coworker - and my car throws codes and runs like cr@p! P2012, P2007 P2006 - and I don't think I'm getting any boost (don't have a boost gauge) sigh

will abs be OK in a gas tank? many folks are having to buy used - no telling how many folks were sold new - fuel pump assemblies, just to get a cap that ,with an o-ring, seals a chamber on fuel pumps. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=134056 http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/110-gen-2-2000-2004/41182-symptoms-fuel-pump-o-ring-problem.html

thanx, I never knew it was those underbody ones.

I thought the airbag deal was folks driving around with the towhook screwed in through the access port in the bumper? not the 'sling points' w'ever under the car.

if you plan to get/borrow a new scanner, get one that can read the fuel trim data.

an EMPI axle might be an option for you.(rockauto, amazon) about $10 more than a rebuilt - but they are new and properly heat treated. They also come with a new pin and axle nut. No problems with the one I put on the wife's outback. Other good options, rebuilding yours or a junkyard unit, MWE rebuilt soob axles, maybe Raxles, soob dealers supposedly get good rebuilts. Enough people report problems with typical rebuilts from AutoZone, Oreilly's etc. that they should be avoided I think. It's a good time for new struts too if you think yours are worn. An impact driver will help a lot.

I suppose it's 'possible' the suspension/steering gear could have received more shock than if the tires were a little softer. might never know. They definitely would transmit 'NVH' (noise, vibration,harshness) more at 40 than at 30. A lot of people run their tires 10-15% over so, 40 isn't 'crazy' high. I usually set mine about 3 psi over, figuring they'll be low for a awhile before i check them again. If you really do consistently run tires at 40, handling might suffer a little, and they will wear in the middle faster than the shoulders.

good post - even rebound may have busted one of those 3 little studs too.

seems like crawling through potholes would put some stress on the front anti-sway bar and it's endlinks and brackets - definitely check that system out carefully. basically, all the suspension and steering needs to be examined.

I'm no expert on the exact symptoms, but some folks have had a bad 'rpm sensor' in the a/c compressor on some outbacks - problem is, I THINK it's older models than yours - not sure. it just seems that compressor load on the engine through the belt is the most likely source of the problem. How does the a/c work idling? Is it blowing cold with no weird noises or problems? try searching on rpm sensor and a/c and see what turns up. not much help I know, maybe someone else will have an idea.

On an aircraft, I'm going to suggest you check the manufacturer's website or consult other experts. Also, I'm not sure re-installing the old plugs with the now-crushed original washers is 'advisable'. more on plugs (keep in mind, the beginning of the thread is from 2004); http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=518633&highlight=sticky+spark+plugs

that doesn't 'seem' unreasonable - maybe someone else will have some ideas. was there a wreck, modification or any work done to the car before this symptom appeared?

when you're idling (clutch in or neutral), if you cycle the a/c on-off, how much, if any, does the RPM change?

oops! You did say 5-speed. sorry, completely my mistake. When you use the term 'hopping' - is it a jerking motion during/after clutch engagement? Cars are built to boost idle speed when the A/C (and maybe some other) load is presented to the engine. Clutches are also wear items - similar to the material used on brakepads. Any change between the way these systems work might lead to an odd change in take-off like you have started experiencing. If this problem is new, it's difficult to fault your driving style so, I can only suggest there has been a change in either the clutch or the way the idle is boosted by the ECU. Sometimes even throttlebody cleaning will help issues like this but that seems less likely. It may be time to have a good mechanic check for clutch wear/problems and proper idle adjustment when the A/C is engaged.

slow auto tranny engagement? I dunno, probably try doing 3 drain/refill/drive cycles with transmission fluid if it hasn't been changed in a while/ever.

Most people run NGK. I dunno if anyone has reported any problems with Denso plugs. maybe others will chime in. Usually, I just ask questions based on reading posts from the actual smart people! lol! If you do a battery reset on the ECU, it will start the 'learning process' over again. So, might be better to just wait and try a few 'cycles' of running the engine to operating temp, letting it cool off, running again and monitor if the problem is getting better or not.

what brand/number plugs did you use? Do you have scanner that could read the short and longterm fuel trims? It may well require a few cycles of heat-up/cool-down for the ECU to adjust to new plugs.

maybe put the arm back on, put the top back in the knuckle and try;